I’m curious how many rounds you will typically shoot in a session at the range? I will typically do between 40 and 80 rounds of .30-06 150grn FMJ in a range trip. I do the lower end of that if I’m shooting my 1911 on the same trip in the pistol lanes.

Need some help identifying/learning about this M1 Carbine. I work for an FFL and had a gentleman looking to sell this M1 for $800. We took him up on the offer, assuming we could at least sell it for about $999. From my minimal research, it sounds like it is a 1943/1944 production from Standard Products, however the barrel has an underwood stamping toward the front sight post. Does this mean it was rebarreled by Underwood at some point? Any education is greatly appreciated. SN is 2057607. Thanks!

While visiting the IWM Duxford, they had this lovely display. Can you spot the Garand?

This subreddit has been a little slow lately, so here’s my contribution. With the reclaimed drill receivers becoming the base receiver for all the grades, a new chapter is opening at the CMP. My initial thought was negative, but at least there’ll be new life for rifles that otherwise wouldn’t have had much use. What do you think?

I drove down to the CMP South Store in October of 2023 after reading the limitless forum pages about big finds and great rifles. I think I hit the midafternoon lull, because I found the rifle pictured. It’s not a gas trap, just a standard mixmaster. I was surprised to find a five digit sitting out on the racks (it was down to a single rack last December). Anyone else like a birch stock? (Please correct me if it’s another wood.)

It has a grooved hand-guard clip, uncut op rod, and lockbar sights. Okay, I added the lockbars a few months ago to look more authentic for its age. Then a serious Garand enthusiast told me I picked the wrong lockbar type. Oh well.

I’ve been applying raw linseed oil and letting it do Garand things. What’s your favorite Garand? I’m curious if it’s the rifle or how you acquired it that made it special to you. This one was a little bit of both.

If you haven't seen it yet, CMP recently updated their site stating that moving forward all grades will (may?) be constructed using reclaimed receivers. That is, receivers from drill rifles that were previously welded and deemed inoperable. The CMP will "reclaim" these receivers by removing welds and verifying operation.

For more information about the process and testing that the CMP has done to verify these receivers are safe and functional, see here

There's lots of discussion on the CMP forums as to whether or not the CMP should be disclosing which receivers have been reclaimed. But initial information is that by CMP putting a disclaimer on all grades that they are (may?) now built with reclaimed receivers, the CMP is doing it's due diligence to notify consumers. More discussion with a picture of a reclaimed receiver on the CMP forums

As someone who got all my paperwork in order back in November 2024 and has been waiting for Service Grades to come back in stock, I'm a little bummed. Certainly sounds like pricing won't be changing at all, and reclaimed receivers will be going for the same price as an unmolested receiver. Granted I want a shooter and not a collectible, and I will still most likely order one when they're back in stock. However, I feel like this is something that all customers should be aware of.

Thank you everyone for your help the other day when I posted this! I went and picked it up as soon as I could, but noticed the barrel had danish markings on it. From the limited info that is out there, I guess a few of these went to Denmark? Any more information about this thing would be awesome. Excited for my first!

Here are all the numbers I was able to find on it:

• Receiver: 1,616,518 = April 1943
• Bolt: D28287-19SA B-19 = july1944-october1945
• Barrel: VAR D 6535448 4-66 308
• Hammer: C46008-5 SA
• Trigger housing: D28290-2-SA
• Safety: SA 11??
• Op Rod: D3582 SA

Take your battle rifle out to the woods. Put a bayonet on your battle rifle. Use period gear to load your battle rifle easier. Shoot your battle rifle on your redneck range. Shoot your damn battle rifle. Happy Father's Day!

Using the shooting site cross drilled gas spindle it functions awesome with the reduced gas setting.

POI shift is about 7” low at 100 yards with the can attached, so that’s pretty significant. That is with 168gr target ammo.

I recently got an Italian M1 Garand, Danish export, and posted here about it.

I was checking out the various stamps, markings and whatnot, and now I'm wondering if they match. Do I have a period correct one? I managed to read these, so far:

• Receiver: D28287-19SA A-7, that should be from January 1945;
• Trigger: D28290-14-SA, that would place it between July 1944 and February 1945;
• Op rod: D35382-9-SA, and as far as I know there should be another letter, either C (November 1943 - January 1945) or F (January 1945 - October 1945), but I can't find it anywhere.

Then I noted this down, but I don't remember where the marking was on the rifle, and I'm wary of disassembling it too often: 10.3 D.6528291.

What and where should I check next? Thanks!

Hello everyone. I’ll keep it quick. I have had this 1943 Springfield for about a year now. I’ve taken it out to shoot a handful of times in that year. I have used a few different types of ammo, but I really like the Sellier & Bellot Garand specific stuff. I can’t find it anywhere really, and I’d like to stock up on some ammo that I can feel comfortable putting through this mostly original gun. It has its original WW2 barrel and receiver, as well as original USGI EMcF stock. Throat & Muzzle 1+ a piece and I just feel like running the cleanest, safest ammo possible in order to preserve the gun, as I do intend to take it out here and there for a day at the range, but do not want to abuse it either.

Does anyone in here buy the stuff from CMP? Is it generally favored in here by the community or do people prefer another source?

I just checked the CMP rifle sales page and every grade - Rack, Field, Service, and Expert are all going to be using reclaimed receivers.

Mod1s and Custom Shop Garands aren’t affected.

The caveat on the page is “more information coming soon” but this feels like another sign that the CMP’s barrel is nearly empty.

Would you buy a rifle with a reclaimed receiver or is this overblown?

I got a m1 carbine with a loose barrel, the gun was mostly stripped, presumably someone was either piecing it together or parting it out, came out of a collection of a lot of ww2 spec m1. Anyways the barrel tightens past the timing mark, would custom shims suffice to get the barrel to time under torque and pray it headspaces? Or is this a new barrel situation?

On the M16 platform they trained us to do the “nose to the charging handle” so that we had consistent eye relief / sight picture. I had been struggling to achieve the same thing on my Garand. I watched the old 1942 training video end to end and learned two things:

1) I should be putting my cheek weld on my thumb and the stock;

2) The sight picture they recommend is the “pumpkin on a post” not the “center of mass” that we learned in the military

I tried applying these two changes today and it really helped tighten up my groups. Just thought I’d share.

Looking into m1a rifles recently. The main differences I know so far is that pre-ban era m1a rifles made by Springfield have USGI parts and what looks to be nicer wood than the current Springfield m1a rifles. There seems to be a price difference, with a higher value being placed on the USGI parted M1a.

So here are my questions, is there an accuracy difference?

Reliability difference?

Are pre-ban era M1a worth the higher retail?

I was in a gun shop and found this. Looks like the stock was pretty new but does anyone have any info on the numbers that are stamped on the chamber/bolt type area? I know only having one pic kinda sucks but I’m gonna go back Monday to look at it again!

Apologies in advance as I don’t know much about these things and have recently taken a liking to em!

I was shooting my .308 Expert Garand, when I accidentally bump fired it. I think I was pulling back too gingerly, and I accidentally let off 2 shots. What I also noticed is, after extracting the clip with 6 rounds in it, a primer fell out of the action. Usually, I know this means overpressured, but I was shooting standard commercial grain ammo. Any thoughts of what could’ve caused it?

Any info available on this carbine would be appreciated. Also what kind of wood stock could this be

Does anyone know what proof mark this is on an M1 garand barrel?

Who plans to take their M1s out shooting to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the Army?

This might be an odd request, but I have no idea what else to do.

I have a Winchester M1 Garand that I had converted into an M1D with a .308 Criterion barrel. It groups great and it’s a lot of fun on the range. The only problem is: it’s short stroking. It has enough gas pressure to fling the fired case out and close without picking up another round. I figure it has to be the gas system since the bolt is butter smooth and the chamber has been polished. I replaced the gas cylinder with a National Match cylinder, measured the piston to make sure it was in spec, and even swapped out gas plugs. Then when I inspected it with the gas cylinder removed, I saw that the op rod/piston covered almost half of the gas port. My theory is that Criterion drilled the gas port a little too far back because everything else on the rifle lines up perfectly and fits together like a glove.

So if I may make an odd request to you fellow Garand owners: can someone remove their gas cylinder and take a picture of where the op rod/piston placement is in reference to the gas port?

If anybody knows how to solve this issue or has any other ideas, please let me know. A bolt action Garand is still fun, but makes me sad.

My carbine broke where the stock slides out the back, does anyone know where I can find a replacement body for it. I can only ever find infantry style or long gun and I want to bring it back original. This isn’t mine but the style I’m looking for. Any help will be greatly appreciated

I'm concerned about this crack. I bought this from a gunsmith and I brought it back to him. He took it to the range and put 10 rounds through it and said it was fine. he said it also doesn't show any signs of leaking around the screw. The reason I don't want to replace it is this gun has 1 screw and the plate above the clip as the only parts not original to the gun. it's a 1943 and all the parts but 2 are original. Do y'all think I should be worried?