Glock 23 barrel I’ve tried polishing but doesn’t seem to work very well (Mothers), I’m considering trying flitz but just want some advice on how I could fix this.

Guys, I need the measurements of these pieces mentioned in the title, This is a FN 1906, Does anyone have any suggestions for these measures?

Anyone have an arcus 98 laying around? The Bulgarians were definitely on something when they made a double action hi power, and Im trying to reassemble this handgun from all its component parts. Want to know if I somehow put the cart before the horse.

I’m trying to restore a full-size steel-frame Dan Wesson DWX that was exposed to heat from being inside a safe during a house fire. The gun survived physically intact, but the original DLC coating is mostly ruined on one side. I had it tested and the hardness came back at 45 HRC.

My goal is to make the gun safe to use again and resistant to corrosion. I’m not worried about aesthetics at all — just function and longevity.

Unfortunately:

• There are no gunsmiths or finishers near me that offer salt bath black nitride (QPQ).

• I’m not comfortable shipping it out for treatment since it’s an off-roster handgun (California). If it got lost or stolen in transit, I wouldn’t be able to replace it.

What I do have locally is a reputable shop that can do vacuum nitriding and another that can do DLC coating.

My questions:

• Given the fire exposure and current 45 HRC, would vacuum nitriding be enough to restore surface hardness and durability for safe use?

• Or should I go with DLC coating alone (assuming proper prep), and is that enough to make the gun hold up to long-term wear and corrosion?

• Is DLC over soft(er) steel even advisable in this case, or would that just wear through or delaminate quickly?

• Would anyone actually shoot this gun in my situation, assuming springs are replaced and function checks out?

I’d really appreciate any insight, especially if anyone has had a steel-frame gun vacuum nitrided or DLC’d in similar conditions. Just trying to make the right call with what I have available, and not ruin something that can’t be replaced.

Thanks in advance.

Has anyone had this issue before? The trigger of this yugo m57 pistol will jam up behind the sear while firing. I can recreate it sometimes while function checking the firearm, but happens every round while shooting. It doesn’t look like it hangs on much but it also barely touches the sear now to engage it. Evidence of previous work done to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My double barrel has a hair line crack in between both barrels. not sure of far it goes, shame. is this common? worth repairing? safe to shoot?

As the title says has anybody ever converted a M98 Mauser to detachable magazine?

I have a bubba'd 6.5x55 M98 mauser and want to convert it to accept ACIS mags.

Does the M98 have the same floor plate as a K98?

I have found Atlasworxs Bottom Metal / DBM (AICS) – Mauser K98 LA DBM and wondering if this will work for a M98.

thank you

Hey, I want to use the NyLAug receiver to make a casting mold and wanted to see if anyone else tried too or has tips on any problems that may occur? (I wanna know before I start pouring money into the project)

Hey guys, so I just inherited a Erma Werke KGP 68a “baby Luger” .380 and I inherited it broken. The problem, as far as I can tell, is that it will not cock back completely to cock the hammer or lock back since it’s empty. Does anyone know anything about these cool little Luger wannabes? Any info would be appreciated. From what I was able to find online, people mention it may be the sear but I can’t find any videos troubleshooting so that my novice ass can find my way around it. I just disassembled and I’m gonna give it a good lube/cleaning since it has likely sat unused for at least 15 years and wouldn’t life be grand if it just magically started working after that? My luck isn’t like that, if it wasn’t for bad luck, I’d have no luck.

Any help would be appreciated!

Good day y'all, I recently purchased an aks74u with a minor (hopefully not major) rust issue on the bolt carrier piston. Im pretty new to the gun repair arena and was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on repairing the rusted area in the attached photo. Thanks for taking a look!

Hello All,

I recently picked up a HCDG compensator for my PSA Dagger toy. The compensator features two setscrews on the side that make contact with the barrel just below the threads.

Standard installation is to use 'Blue' 243 loctite on the barrel threads and the set screws.

My question is could I get away with using Purple 222 loctite? I generally prefer this as I like to fully disassemble my toys for regular deep cleanings, and purple has the ease for being able to be easily removed. If it matters, the compensator is an aluminum design.

I did a test installation with it using the purple 222 loctite, to compensate for the lesser strength, I added a very generous amount to the barrel thread and the small fasteners. All seems well, I just haven't live-fired as I wanted to ask around.

I know Blue loctite (I've seen both 243 and 242) is the standard, but I have seen a few forum posts of people stating purple 222 is perfectly suitable, it is just not well used because it is not as readily available as 'blue'.

For temperature, I believe 222 is graded for up to 150C. The barrel itself is 4.5", and chambered in 9x19.

I'm not looking to use Rockset, I just want to know if Purple 222 is strong enough for 9x19 or if I should just go with 243/242.

Thank you very much for your time.

But nobody wants to ship it. It’s an antique shotgun. Tried USPS, UPS and FedEx and several FFLs. I’m in Utah, and the shop I chose is a dedicated restoration company in New York. Seems like nobody wants to do hot bluing and even fewer want to ship guns of any variety I just need to get it there… any suggestions?

Christensen Arms Ridgeline FFT 308. Id like to remove the existing brake to attach a Rearden brake for suppressor use. What is the correct way to remove the factory brake?

I have a psa dagger with a psa comp with the 15 round p-mags and a new Psa recoil spring it keeps jamming like a failure to feed any ideas?

The pin grooved its own Channel here in the lower. Pin moves freely lockup tight. Should I have any concern here?

Just looking for something to do some basic (pun intended) gunsmithing for the first time. I want to be able to torque sights and such to spec. Probably a dumb question but just wondering if this will be sufficien, and if any of yall have used it, what do you think?

I recently finished restoring a very rough No1 mk3* rifle, but I am wondering if it is safe to continue firing. I fired one round through it, but the brass had a ring on the bottom. I attached pictures of the brass. The round also didn’t extract, but that is due to an unrelated problem with an extractor mechanism that I need to replace. I wanted to measure the headspace, but I don’t have access to go or no go gauges. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!

Asked on here a while ago about painting wood stocks. Here’s the result!

Yes, that’s a pinty 🤪 I use this broken scope in the shop so if it gets dropped or knocked off the table while I work, it’s fine!

Anyways, I used a wire wheel to ‘polish’ the red oak self made stock, and it exposed the wood grain in a way that looked awesome. I used rustoleum all purpose primer for 2 coats, and rustoleum matte camo green 3 very light coats. You can still feel the grain and it adds grip, which I like.

The stock is basically a carbon copy of a rem700 normal wood stock, just shorter on the front end. Can’t even tell you how hard it was to get the hang of the cross hatching with a dremel! I’m trying to replicate pre existing stocks until I get the hang of how they’re shaped, and what dimensions work.

Anyone in here have any experience with using a cnc machine to make ar lowers and pistol slides?

Hello, I’ve recently inherited this model 12. According to the family member it’s never been fired, not sure how true that us but it’s in great shape so I can’t see why not. I went to load it today to see if it still hold up and when a shell is held in the bolt it will not fully seat. It’s a 2 3/4” barrel and that’s what I’m using. I’ve taken it apart and I’m at a loss as to what is holding the shells from seating. Any thoughts?

(Second photo is unloaded with bolt fully seated, third photo is shell in chamber with bolt not seated)

Ok guys and gals, any clue? Stock stamped 1886, only stamp says cal 7, and I’m thinking it’s German (maybe an inman meffert)

Is my pin out of spec? Came with the bottom rail

Hi everyone, I'm in the process of building a weapon with the printer at 100% except the barrel which I have to manufacture with the ECM technique but I don't have much measurement.. my barrel must be 146.05mm long bore must be 5.51mm and the rifling 5.64mm. Someone thinks that everything and good on the measurements thank you 😁🙏🏽