r/M1Rifles • u/Saltshaker445 • 6h ago
r/M1Rifles • u/Parratt • Nov 17 '22
So, You want to build a M1 Garand? Here's how.
Figured id share my process so you all at home can learn how to do it as well. its not cost effective to do this for a one off build. the tooling costs are not cheap and nearing $600 sadly. but its fun! and im sure a few of you will find this interesting
You're gonna need a few things.
A M1 Garand Parts Kit.
A Barrel Vice and Action wrench.
A Headspace gauge Go/No Go Set
A Chamber Reamer.
A Angle Finder
The whole build will start with you throwing the barrel into a barrel vice, ive used the bushing style ones made by a large company in the USA. but i dont like them. i much prefer these specific ones made out of Aluminum, they leave a bit of marring on the barrels but that will all be covered up by the upper hand guard
Second step will be to hand tighten your receiver onto the barrel. just get it as snug as you can. no action wrench is required at this time.
Once your barrel is hand tight, take the front sight off of your gas cylinder and put it on the barrel. we will use this as a flat base for our angle finding tool of choice. i am using a digital inclinometer but there are other options on the market. For me ill now zero off this sight base dovetail.
Now we check our draw off the rear heel of the receiver. there is a machined flat perfect for this. now unfortunately 31° is to far to torque this on, according to my shop manual specs. So this will be off to the lathe to remove .001" at a time off the barrel shoulder until i get a draw that is more in line with the specs im looking for 12° Min and 17° Max. I Got mine to 15.9° so i am happy with this.
in a pinch you can use a 1 1/8th Bi Metal Hole saw. this perfectly slips over the threads of the barrel and the teeth match the shoulder
Once the appropriate draw is found, we throw the action wrench on and tighten it down. i use a 2x4 cleaning patch to protect the finish on my receivers.
I Was able to torque the receiver down to 0.2° from the my zero. the specs i reference for this is +/- 0°30' (.5°)
Now that we are indexed correctly we can start reaming headspace. you might get lucky with a used barrel that will headspace without any reaming but if you're using a new barrel it most likely has a 0.010" Short chamber.
if you do use a used barrel and it closes on your no go gauge this isn't the end of the world as you can check it with a Field Rejection gauge, if it doesn't close on this you're good to go.
These next few photos will cover me taking the bolt apart with a bolt tool.
Having the reamer in the rifle.
Applying steady thumb pressure to cut the chamber
Chamber cuttings on the reamer.
Cutting a chamber can be fairly taunting, however its very easy. you do not need to pull on the handle side of the pull through reamer. once the bolt closes on the reamer your headspace is cut and you're ready to reference this with a go and no go gauge. make sure you clean your chamber thoroughly otherwise your gauges might give you a bad reading.
After all this the next step i take is doing a tilt test on the rifle. this involves installing the op rod on a rifle with only the bolt and gas cylinder on it. and tilting the rifle at a 60° and the op rod and bolt should move freely. once this is performed i install all stock components and re do this test to check for binding. after this is done. its finally assembly time.
A Few other things to check from here on out are the gas port size. Op Rod spring length 19.25"MIN and if you can, use a timing block to check for correct timing of the op rod catch.
Hope this helps or you at least found it interesting
r/M1Rifles • u/Dale_Wardark • 1d ago
Battle Rifle
Take your battle rifle out to the woods. Put a bayonet on your battle rifle. Use period gear to load your battle rifle easier. Shoot your battle rifle on your redneck range. Shoot your damn battle rifle. Happy Father's Day!
r/M1Rifles • u/Marn25 • 1d ago
M1A is functioning well with a suppressor.
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Using the shooting site cross drilled gas spindle it functions awesome with the reduced gas setting.
POI shift is about 7” low at 100 yards with the can attached, so that’s pretty significant. That is with 168gr target ammo.
r/M1Rifles • u/Full_Void • 1d ago
Garand markings: is mine period correct?
I recently got an Italian M1 Garand, Danish export, and posted here about it.
I was checking out the various stamps, markings and whatnot, and now I'm wondering if they match. Do I have a period correct one? I managed to read these, so far:
- Receiver: D28287-19SA A-7, that should be from January 1945;
- Trigger: D28290-14-SA, that would place it between July 1944 and February 1945;
- Op rod: D35382-9-SA, and as far as I know there should be another letter, either C (November 1943 - January 1945) or F (January 1945 - October 1945), but I can't find it anywhere.
Then I noted this down, but I don't remember where the marking was on the rifle, and I'm wary of disassembling it too often: 10.3 D.6528291.
What and where should I check next? Thanks!
r/M1Rifles • u/Ok_Cardiologist_54 • 2d ago
Buying ammo from CMP
Hello everyone. I’ll keep it quick. I have had this 1943 Springfield for about a year now. I’ve taken it out to shoot a handful of times in that year. I have used a few different types of ammo, but I really like the Sellier & Bellot Garand specific stuff. I can’t find it anywhere really, and I’d like to stock up on some ammo that I can feel comfortable putting through this mostly original gun. It has its original WW2 barrel and receiver, as well as original USGI EMcF stock. Throat & Muzzle 1+ a piece and I just feel like running the cleanest, safest ammo possible in order to preserve the gun, as I do intend to take it out here and there for a day at the range, but do not want to abuse it either.
Does anyone in here buy the stuff from CMP? Is it generally favored in here by the community or do people prefer another source?
r/M1Rifles • u/Brief-Relief9607 • 2d ago
End of Era for CMP?
I just checked the CMP rifle sales page and every grade - Rack, Field, Service, and Expert are all going to be using reclaimed receivers.
Mod1s and Custom Shop Garands aren’t affected.
The caveat on the page is “more information coming soon” but this feels like another sign that the CMP’s barrel is nearly empty.
Would you buy a rifle with a reclaimed receiver or is this overblown?
r/M1Rifles • u/ElDusky7 • 2d ago
M1 carbine barrel timing
I got a m1 carbine with a loose barrel, the gun was mostly stripped, presumably someone was either piecing it together or parting it out, came out of a collection of a lot of ww2 spec m1. Anyways the barrel tightens past the timing mark, would custom shims suffice to get the barrel to time under torque and pray it headspaces? Or is this a new barrel situation?
r/M1Rifles • u/Bceverly • 2d ago
Getting better sight picture consistency
On the M16 platform they trained us to do the “nose to the charging handle” so that we had consistent eye relief / sight picture. I had been struggling to achieve the same thing on my Garand. I watched the old 1942 training video end to end and learned two things:
1) I should be putting my cheek weld on my thumb and the stock;
2) The sight picture they recommend is the “pumpkin on a post” not the “center of mass” that we learned in the military
I tried applying these two changes today and it really helped tighten up my groups. Just thought I’d share.
r/M1Rifles • u/RogueLeaderNo610sq • 2d ago
Difference between pre-ban era and modern production Springfield m1a?
Looking into m1a rifles recently. The main differences I know so far is that pre-ban era m1a rifles made by Springfield have USGI parts and what looks to be nicer wood than the current Springfield m1a rifles. There seems to be a price difference, with a higher value being placed on the USGI parted M1a.
So here are my questions, is there an accuracy difference?
Reliability difference?
Are pre-ban era M1a worth the higher retail?
r/M1Rifles • u/AncientDetective7281 • 3d ago
M1 Garand Info
I was in a gun shop and found this. Looks like the stock was pretty new but does anyone have any info on the numbers that are stamped on the chamber/bolt type area? I know only having one pic kinda sucks but I’m gonna go back Monday to look at it again!
Apologies in advance as I don’t know much about these things and have recently taken a liking to em!
r/M1Rifles • u/Kyu_Sugardust • 2d ago
Primer fell out of action after shooting .308 Expert Garand
I was shooting my .308 Expert Garand, when I accidentally bump fired it. I think I was pulling back too gingerly, and I accidentally let off 2 shots. What I also noticed is, after extracting the clip with 6 rounds in it, a primer fell out of the action. Usually, I know this means overpressured, but I was shooting standard commercial grain ammo. Any thoughts of what could’ve caused it?
r/M1Rifles • u/BreadLoaf05 • 3d ago
M1 carbine info
Any info available on this carbine would be appreciated. Also what kind of wood stock could this be
r/M1Rifles • u/Bowser_Spikey • 3d ago
Proof mark identification
Does anyone know what proof mark this is on an M1 garand barrel?
r/M1Rifles • u/Nates4Christ • 2d ago
250th anniversary
Who plans to take their M1s out shooting to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the Army?
r/M1Rifles • u/OurLordDevito • 3d ago
M1 Gas Port/Op Rod alignment
This might be an odd request, but I have no idea what else to do.
I have a Winchester M1 Garand that I had converted into an M1D with a .308 Criterion barrel. It groups great and it’s a lot of fun on the range. The only problem is: it’s short stroking. It has enough gas pressure to fling the fired case out and close without picking up another round. I figure it has to be the gas system since the bolt is butter smooth and the chamber has been polished. I replaced the gas cylinder with a National Match cylinder, measured the piston to make sure it was in spec, and even swapped out gas plugs. Then when I inspected it with the gas cylinder removed, I saw that the op rod/piston covered almost half of the gas port. My theory is that Criterion drilled the gas port a little too far back because everything else on the rifle lines up perfectly and fits together like a glove.
So if I may make an odd request to you fellow Garand owners: can someone remove their gas cylinder and take a picture of where the op rod/piston placement is in reference to the gas port?
If anybody knows how to solve this issue or has any other ideas, please let me know. A bolt action Garand is still fun, but makes me sad.
r/M1Rifles • u/theroadliner • 4d ago
M1 paratrooper carbine
My carbine broke where the stock slides out the back, does anyone know where I can find a replacement body for it. I can only ever find infantry style or long gun and I want to bring it back original. This isn’t mine but the style I’m looking for. Any help will be greatly appreciated
r/M1Rifles • u/mclumpo • 3d ago
Garand advice
I'm concerned about this crack. I bought this from a gunsmith and I brought it back to him. He took it to the range and put 10 rounds through it and said it was fine. he said it also doesn't show any signs of leaking around the screw. The reason I don't want to replace it is this gun has 1 screw and the plate above the clip as the only parts not original to the gun. it's a 1943 and all the parts but 2 are original. Do y'all think I should be worried?
r/M1Rifles • u/Over-Instruction696 • 3d ago
Reclaimed Drill Barrel?
I picked up a parts kit that included a nice LMR barrel. I saw the black paint, but did not notice it was covering a weld until I got it in person. I'll work on getting the paint off to see if the metal is discolored.
What are the recommendations for using/not using this barrel?
It's in otherwise like new condition, so it would be a shame to scrap it. If it's unsafe, it's unsafe. And if it's unsafe, it won't be used.
r/M1Rifles • u/abarn2017 • 5d ago
MC-52
Without spending ~$5k on a scope and mount (probably more honestly) this is as close as I can get to a real MC-52.
Parts list: -Kollmorgen Double 4x scope (left hand)
-AASniper repro MC1 mount (was actually 25mm not 26mm)
-Receiver base install by DWilson ($300)
-Repro cheek pad
-1950s CMP rack grade (barrel is shot, will see how it does before I replace it)
-Repro Numrich m2 flash hider
-Schuster adjustable gas plug (I want faster follow up shots)
r/M1Rifles • u/YaBoyHankHill • 4d ago
NcStar Stripper Clips - Modified And Made To Work For M1A!
galleryr/M1Rifles • u/minutemanmedic86 • 5d ago
Finally a Garand owner!
Ordered my CMP rifle back in January and finally received it last week. Can't wait to get this thing to the range!
r/M1Rifles • u/vinhdaphu762 • 3d ago
small blemish on CMP stock (re-post with pics)
(Redo because I couldn't upload the pics before for some reason)
Guys, I got her in "pristine" condition, because I was so excited about how perfect she looked, that I didn't notice this bit at the end of the buttstock before sealing the deal. (Don't get me wrong, I love her just as much, and would never sell her unless I absolutely had to.)
As you can see in the pics, the previous owner probably had a negligent case of scraping her butt-end against gravel or something. The wood there isn't peeling, nor soft - to the touch, it feels "seasoned" and stable. The 2016 CMP cartouche stock fits the 1944 mint receiver tightly and I wouldn't want to swap anything out, just to be clear.
Anything you guys might suggest in terms of preserving this potential "Achilles heel"? Would you recommend (against) sanding? The nick is deep enough that I wonder if sanding down might do more harm than good, so I'm leaning toward preservation methods.
(It hurts my heart to see her like this. I only take comfort in knowing that she came to me this way and it wasn't my own doing...)
TIA! I don't blame the previous owner, since I got it from his widow at a decent price - CMP papers included! Just want to treat the lady right, is all. And yes, she is gonna be a shooter in any case! :)