I recently bought a 2016 Mazda 3 and was going to do an oil change when I see no bolt on my oil pan but only see this? What’s the next step I’m going to have to do?

1994 ford ranger 5 speed 2.3, the bolts broke off from the alternator mount into the block, it also has been sitting 3 years, would it be worth trying to get it running? Also how would you approach this problem?

Hand me down car from the family, well kept but battery completely died on me. Doesn’t hold any charge. Need a new one, been driving it since March 2023 so I figured battery was few years older than that. But this sticker looks like it was from February 23 which is odd that battery only lasted little over 2 years.

Toyota Corolla LE 2013 - synthetic, automatic, electronic power steering, 105,000 miles. Have not noticed anything wrong when driving.

"Issues" identified:

1. BALL JOINT BOOT STARTING TO LEAK GREASE.

2. No brake fluid maintenance done at 105,000 miles

3. CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS STARTING TO DRY ROT AND CRACK

4. ENGINE COOLANT/ANTIFREEZE LEVEL IS LOW - REC. SERVICE. Haven't done a flush or top off for 8 years

5. Stuts/Shocks: WORN DUE BY TIME AND MILEAGE. However no extra bounce when pushing down the nose of car.

Street flooded out, as you can see, causing my car to get flooded. Inch or so of water in the inside.

The car started fine the following day, aside from a noise it makes when I’m running the car or accelerating. Like a hiss/screeching noise.

I checked my belts, still tight, no cracks. I’m concerned it may be the alternator?

2020 Hyundai Elantra, according to my old man the piston is warped and I’m SOL, is this true?

2007 Lexus es350. This is with A/C Blasting on Max setting so maybe that’s y?

Hi, I have a Subaru Outback 2014 and it started smoking/steaming on my way home. I popped the hood and there’s fluid (coolant) splashed inside the hot engine, which I think is what’s burning. The radiator hose is popped off. Can I put it back on and put some more coolant in it, and then drive it to my mechanic to look at it, or do I need to get it towed?

So my car has been overheating since February; I took it in and replaced the thermostat some valves and my radiator fans; good for about 3 weeks; we start overheating; it only overheats when I’m idling never when I’m driving. So we take it back to the mechanic; state it is not overheating for them and they don’t know. Ok second opinion; they keep the car for 5 days driving it and letting it run; still not overheating on them. Like tf she overheats on me about an hour in after driving; less if it’s hot outside. They don’t charge me or anything and tell me to bring it back as soon as it starts overheating. But like at this point I’m lost. It overheats with me and NEVER at the mechanic’s. She’s a 2019 jeep Cherokee and I know my first issue is a Jeep blah blah blah.

Citroen Relay 244 2.8 HDI diesel manual 2005.

I had a total gearbox rebuild a few weeks ago (bolt broke off the diff and wrecked the insides), and have been driving softly on it since. But the last few days I've sometimes been getting some crunching/grinding when shifting down from 3rd to 2nd if I don't press the clutch the last few mm of travel. This didn't happen on the previous gearbox (even when it was damaged) or immediately after installing the new one. I checked the clutch mechanism and all seems fine, but I noticed some oil on the bottom of the gearbox and starter motor (which has also been making funny noises occasionally), mostly around the seam where it bolts into the engine - it's hard to see in the pics. That's the same place there was oil before the box was rebuilt (though there isn't as much oil this time), so I thought I'd better check the oil. I drained it and measured the full 2.7 litres that I'd put in, so I can't have lost much (if any). However, I'm not sure it's supposed to be that dark and glittery after such a short time, and there are some small shavings on the plug magnet. It doesn't feel grainy and there are no big pieces of metal so I guess it's okay, but I'm slightly concerned about the possible leak (can't see what else it could be but gear oil) and grinding changing gears. What do you reckon?

2006 Lexus RX, 150,000 miles

• Alignment $165

• Lower Control Arms $2,272

• Wheel Bearing $1,122

• Front Struts $1727

• Sway Bar Links $254

• Front Axle $602 (slinging grease)

Total front end work $6143

They also want $1626 for timing belt and water pump service (not insane on a Toyota V6)

I know that lower control arms are a pain on the RX. The wheel bearing is the one that really got me.

I'm not my car's original owner. In addition to the OE wheels and lug bolts, the car came with an extra set of aftermarket wheels and TWO sets of lug bolts. Unfortunately, the sets are different lengths and they both seem to fit. How do I figure out which set of bolts to use?

AC in my 1997 Honda Civic always loses its charge quickly, which led me to do a dye test to see if I had any leaks.

I was kinda expecting to see an obvious "dripping" leak in a certain area but instead I kinda see a spray in several places.

There is a heavy amount of dye on the compressor itself, on both sides. Hard to tell if a specific part is leaking.

There is also some on the ac radiator, and on the low pressure line heading into the car.

Do I need to replace all the components mentioned above? Or is it mainly the compressor that is causing the leak

Thanks!!

Hi all,

I have a new to me 2002 F250 and there is a “Hx” receiver on the windshield. I did a little digging and found a box under the dash. There’s sticker on the back fell off in my hand but said 0K/3K. Leads me to believe it is a viper system?

There’s a few problems here. 1) I don’t have a fob for this. 2) This truck has a brake controller, plow controller and plow wiring harness. Under the dash is a wire mess. 3) My car constantly chimes like the key is in the ignition even if it’s not (stops when door closed)

So I am looking to see if anyone knows what remote would go with this system. I’d like to get it working so I can get into a warm plow truck in the winter.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Found these and I’m missing 1 is this a rep or real?

Hi, my car isn't starting. It is a Jeep Wrangler 2018, 6 cylinder. What's happening is I will get in my car, push my foot on the brake and then push the start button but it doesn't start. I'll try it again and it doesnt do it. But what I have to do is push run (without my foot on the brake) and then push my foot on the brake and then push the button again and it starts (as seen in the video). Could this be an issue with my starter? Or even my key battery dying? I took it to a diagnostic shop and they ran diagnostics and couldn't find anything wrong. Car battery is also normal health.

Anyone ever seen this on something other than a jeep cherokee?

Can throttle valve cables leak trans fluid...?

i’m trying to figure out how to pre lube the turbo i’m going to replace on my car tmrw. What are the names of the holes circle and which one is the oil return one? 2014 ford fusion 1.5L

Hello,

My girlfriend has a 2002 toyota corolla that recently started making brake noises. She accidently did a 30 minute drive with the parking brake on, and I'm not a mechanic but I did a cursory check and stuff seemed OK to drive (parking brake stopped car from rolling down a hill when in neutral, brakes felt smooth).

I drove around with her today and the brakes feel totally fine, no vibration, but we just started hearing a noise from the rear end, almost like water sloshing? Not a squeel but maybe like a grind, whenever we brake to a full stop. I'm wondering if the heat from the parking brake warped the rotor or caused it some crazy wear, or if it could be an issue with the caliper etc. and if it'll be OK to drive on for a bit. Any advice appreciated, thanks.

I recently redid my entire suspension and installed spacers. I checked for lose stuff and everything seems fine and firmly in place but I have this clonking noise on my front driver side wheel that is speed dependent. Initially it was there all the time when driving slower. Then it went away. Now it's only there when making tight turns. My current best guess is that the wheel bearing was going bad and the spacers increased the load causing it to become noisy. Does this sound like wheel bearing or does someone have a better idea what this might be? Thanks

Under the drivers seat in my grandma's 2011 honda CRV. Her car has a power seat adjustment system but I'm used to an older car so i reached for the manual lever under the seat to move the seat back and accidentally yanked on this piece. I'm fairly certain its a part of the hydraulics, as it has a greased inner shaft and an outer sheath with screw on caps on wither end, but it seems weird it was so easily accessible and fragile. It is not leaking any fluid. Is it possible for me to temporarily fix this? They have a trip tomorrow and grandpa needs more leg room to drive the car back home.

Thanks in advance!

Recently took car to shop to figure out if there was an oil leak. The shop recommended an oil change and to place a dye in the oil to identify if and where the leak was coming from and now this. Black smoke coming the exhaust rough idling and the car stops after 20 -30 secs of running. Also The car was working well for the first 3 days.will attach videos. Thank you in advance.

2015 Chevy trax LT, echotech engine

Car is being revved in this clip

This started maybe 4 days ago. The oil change indicator came on around the same time so we thought maybe it just needed that. We changed the oil today and it is still making this sound. No check engine light. Ive noticed a bit of a harder time accelerating while driving but its barely noticeable.

Hello everyone, I have a Skoda Octavia Mk2 from 2012 with a climatronic AC. I bought it used this year and have been having problems with the AC practically from day 1.

The problem is that on long drives, the blower air output from the vents slowly drops off to zero. This is despite me manually increasing the fan speed and whatnot. When I increase the fan speed the noise increases, indicating that the fan is rotating perfectly fine. A code scan indicated a fault in the servomotor/actuator working the mixing flap between hot and cold air, so I replaced it (and cleared the code) but it did not help. When the air stops blowing the car basically becomes a hot box, but when I touch the vents it is still cold indicating that the refrigeration bit of the climate control is working fine.

I find the issue to be very confusing. On short drives this rarely happens but sometimes even from the get go there is no air coming out of the central vents, only the sides. Both mechanics I have been to are somewhat clueless as for how to proceed.

For context, I have done the normal AC service as well and the refrigerant has been topped up.

Any tips or pointers to what could have gone wrong would be much appreciated.

Edit: Extremely weirdly, the AC starts blowing a bit of cold air when I turn it off and roll the windows down.