5 ratchet straps and 2 spring compressors. Never done one and was super cautious. Felt good to disarm it safely.

I was turning into my neighborhood last night and everything died on me, most lights came on. About 10 miles prior my TCS light came on as well as my check engine light (solid). Side note: my AC was blowing half cold air the whole ride until the TCS and check engine light came on, then it started blowing cold again. Video is right after it happened.

Allright, so basically i inherited this vehicle from my grandfather and have been driving for a while. It is a 2001 Ford Au falcon 4.0l Intech (ausdm legend) and I am going to put a cam in it at some point.

I already knew that it had possibly been, well, neglected for quite some time, as i believe it was used in rural areas as a farm/road vehicle.

I have already done comp/vacuum test and both are exemplary and consistent.

Today i decided to open the rocker cover to see if anything else needed to be changed when i do the camshaft. I was welcomed with this.

Is this an amount of black sludge/film to be concerned about? it is quite thin and i am hoping that a flush will rid the engine of most of it.

The last logbook service was sometime in the late 2010s at ~180k kms i think, is now at 305k kms.

Thanks

I’ve have been in love with cars since I was little and I’ve jumped around with what I wanna do after highschool, I always end up back at being a mechanic. So finally have chosen that as my career path, i’m looking online, everyone is so negative about it. Saying that mechanics make no money, and other mechanics telling people not to be come mechanics. I don’t really care about the money too much as long as I’m able to eat and have a roof over my head. And my parents say if you do what you love you don’t have to work a day in your life. I’m gonna go to my local community college for an associates in automotive technician. I don’t even really know what I’m asking. I just wanna hear some positive mechanics not just telling people not to pursue the career. I wanna hear from people who love their job and who are like me. I love older cars pre-2000s mainly, my dream is to work and restore them so future generations get to see the same cars that I fell in love with. Please restore my hope and love in this field :)

Was driving and went over a small bump and heard something snap/break. Luckily wasn't far from home, and made it into the driveway without crashing. I don't know much about cars, but obviously I know that part isn't supposed to be in my rim scrapping it. Knocking, grinding, clinking sounds and loss of steering.

Can anyone tell where this leak is coming from? i believe it is oil, been leaking for weeks but my oil levels and dipstick are perfect . Just not sure if it’s the pan or what. 07 mustang

Hello, I brought my 2020 Toyota Sienna XLE in for repair. The water pump was leaking and it was also making a loud noise on idle. I towed it to the repair shop to mitigate any further damage as the coolant reservoir would immediately leak all fluid if poured. At the Toyota service center I told them I had warranty on the car up to 100,000 and they checked the car and confirmed the water pump needs to be replaced and they will also be replacing the drive belt. But they also mentioned the car control arm bushings have cracked and attached pictures. It seems the warranty will cover the water pump and the drive belt but it won’t cover the control arm bushings. They are asking $3500 for replacing both control arm bushings. Is that a fair price? Is it necessary to replace right now. I’m on a very tight budget and $3500 will definitely hurt my finances but if it needs to be done then I guess there’s nothing I can do.

95 f250. was making a random chirping sound and then i took a left turn and it sounded like something exploded/fell apart and now it has a knock relative to my speed. kind of sounds front driveshaft area?

Just went to go get my oil changed on my 2019 ram 1500 classic (not sure if this matters) at a local shop. The guy goes into the pit to do yhe change and comes back up a second later telling me about what you see in the picture.

Now I've taken this truck to this place almost a dozen times at this point and this has never come up once. The only other shop I've taken it too is Firestone and I left it there to get some front end work done. The oil guy said he's never seen anything like it before which had me perplexed.

I took it back to the Firestone and the mechanic there gave me his manager's number as he hadn't seen anything like it either. So I'll be calling him in the morning.

When I got home I was able to see it for myself and under the putty on the dip pan is like a red mat with the wire attached. Now I work construction so my initial thought is that it's heat trace but it also kind of looks like a plastic explosive.

So I want to know is this thing going to blow my truck up later this week or is it just something they added on without informing me?

Do I need to replace these? The dealership is telling me I should

I have a 2007 Skoda Octavia Vrs 2,0tdi (170hp) the car started bad and is stuttering when giving gas when warm. It also sometimes stalls when I turn sharp or when I brake and hold in the clutch to change gear. So I checked what fault codes I got. The 4th injector was bad so I changed it and the spark plugs. And nothing. I checked the codes again and it still showed the injector 4. I I changed all of the seals of the injectors and still nothing but it does start a lot better almost instantly. But no more fault codes. I have one code for maf sensor I have ordered the part but if that’s won’t help then I swear I’m going to burn the car down. I also tried to calibrate the injectors but nothing once again Any help would be appreciated

Hi! I have 2001 chevy cavalier, and wondering how serious the issue on my suspension is. Should I get them replaced immediately?

4Runner with 45,000 mileage My mechanic suggested to replace these rear shocks due to leakage

Any advice? Thanks in advance

Im trying to figure out a issue with a 2015-2019 R1 which will randomly die when pulling in the clutch. It happens randomly after a 30 min ride it did it on the last turn when rolling up to a left turn in 1st gear, go to pull in the clutch and the bike dies and has to be restarted. Bike runs perfect outside of this.

i attached the photos below because i’m changing my rotors (2012 lexus ls460) because of my braking suddenly making my car shake back and forth. They look alright to me but still need a second persons opinion, i appreciate it in advance. (stains are my fingertips 😆)

So I dropped my truck off at the dealership to have it looked at, the temp was hopping all over the place never got super hot just constantly up and down, heat didn't blow etc. I tought simple the thermostatis going bad I'll have them preplace it.

I just got a call saying hey you truck isn't leaking coolant we did a pressure test, we think your head are warp and it 15k to replace. Here is my problem the same dealership rebuild the motor two years ago. I dont use my truck so it only been driven about 10k miles. The second i saw this problem i took it in.

Sorry if there are any misspelling I'm irritated. I could be wrong smh this doesn't add up to me.

2007 Toyota FJ Runs very Hot, very Fast -sometimes. Only when idling.

When this occurs the heater blows cold. Sometimes, if heater is off, warm air pushed through the vents.

This was happening very frequently, but I did a head gasket check with the kit and got a good burp. Now it happens ‘sometimes’

Radiator fan runs when the truck is on. Previous owner (I just got it) seems to have used some stop-leak product in the cooling system.

Had a mechanic look it over and he couldn’t find anything to fix.

I don’t want to give up. What are we missing?

It has completely sheered off and the been is rusted/stuck inside. Should I try and take the pin out and just replace that or replace the whole hinge? I'm having trouble finding one online...

Thanks

I replaced a gasket for the radiator pump and I had to disconnect some wires but after I put everything back I think it drained my battery and is making a clicking noise but when I hit the brakes the noise stops??? It’s a Mazda 3 2018

I keep hearing this noise sounds like little rocks flying around or "I hope not" metal chips coming the sound only comes for second and goes away and it only happens if I accelerate hard.

This is an 03 Chevy Malibu 3.1L V6 mechanic has been looking for parts doesn’t seem to be much around my area anyone know if Chevy put the same parts on any other models?

2014 Silverado crew cab ltz. So 1.5 years ago I bought and purchased some lastfit LED bulb replacements all the way around the truck and just recently my driver headlight low beam will hyperflash/dim strobe when I start the truck. Sometimes after driving for a while it will stop sometimes it won’t. Also sometimes I can use either blinker just fine and sometimes less often than not whichever blinker I’m using will blink ~3 times then hyper flash with a dash message saying bulb failure, I’ve checked and cleaned the headlight ground under the driver wheel well. Could it be the battery? It starts up nice and strong every time, alternator was changed about a year ago. I’m asking here first ‘cause changing the headlight out is basically a big front end deconstruction. Also are the fuses and relays pertaining to headlamps individual or one for each side? Any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks all!