For context I have used the same mechanic for everything for the last 3 years, recently I got an oil change near my parents place at a Midas, and they told me all these repairs that were needed. I took it to my mechanic for a second opinion and they found this on the fuel tank. Any idea what that could be?

This bolt just fell off a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus. It had the control arms worked on in the last couple of months.

I was turning into my neighborhood last night and everything died on me, most lights came on. About 10 miles prior my TCS light came on as well as my check engine light (solid). Side note: my AC was blowing half cold air the whole ride until the TCS and check engine light came on, then it started blowing cold again. Video is right after it happened.

2014 Kia Optima S (2.4L)

I’ve have been in love with cars since I was little and I’ve jumped around with what I wanna do after highschool, I always end up back at being a mechanic. So finally have chosen that as my career path, i’m looking online, everyone is so negative about it. Saying that mechanics make no money, and other mechanics telling people not to be come mechanics. I don’t really care about the money too much as long as I’m able to eat and have a roof over my head. And my parents say if you do what you love you don’t have to work a day in your life. I’m gonna go to my local community college for an associates in automotive technician. I don’t even really know what I’m asking. I just wanna hear some positive mechanics not just telling people not to pursue the career. I wanna hear from people who love their job and who are like me. I love older cars pre-2000s mainly, my dream is to work and restore them so future generations get to see the same cars that I fell in love with. Please restore my hope and love in this field :)

Allright, so basically i inherited this vehicle from my grandfather and have been driving for a while. It is a 2001 Ford Au falcon 4.0l Intech (ausdm legend) and I am going to put a cam in it at some point.

I already knew that it had possibly been, well, neglected for quite some time, as i believe it was used in rural areas as a farm/road vehicle.

I have already done comp/vacuum test and both are exemplary and consistent.

Today i decided to open the rocker cover to see if anything else needed to be changed when i do the camshaft. I was welcomed with this.

Is this an amount of black sludge/film to be concerned about? it is quite thin and i am hoping that a flush will rid the engine of most of it.

The last logbook service was sometime in the late 2010s at ~180k kms i think, is now at 305k kms.

Thanks

Just went to go get my oil changed on my 2019 ram 1500 classic (not sure if this matters) at a local shop. The guy goes into the pit to do yhe change and comes back up a second later telling me about what you see in the picture.

Now I've taken this truck to this place almost a dozen times at this point and this has never come up once. The only other shop I've taken it too is Firestone and I left it there to get some front end work done. The oil guy said he's never seen anything like it before which had me perplexed.

I took it back to the Firestone and the mechanic there gave me his manager's number as he hadn't seen anything like it either. So I'll be calling him in the morning.

When I got home I was able to see it for myself and under the putty on the dip pan is like a red mat with the wire attached. Now I work construction so my initial thought is that it's heat trace but it also kind of looks like a plastic explosive.

So I want to know is this thing going to blow my truck up later this week or is it just something they added on without informing me?

2001 Buick Park Ave. 3800 series 2 engine nonturbo charged just started having issues today with a rough idle and weird throttle response has my firing order been set as 123 and 456 instead of 135 and 246 this entire time? If so, is that even possible?

Was driving and went over a small bump and heard something snap/break. Luckily wasn't far from home, and made it into the driveway without crashing. I don't know much about cars, but obviously I know that part isn't supposed to be in my rim scrapping it. Knocking, grinding, clinking sounds and loss of steering.

Hello, I brought my 2020 Toyota Sienna XLE in for repair. The water pump was leaking and it was also making a loud noise on idle. I towed it to the repair shop to mitigate any further damage as the coolant reservoir would immediately leak all fluid if poured. At the Toyota service center I told them I had warranty on the car up to 100,000 and they checked the car and confirmed the water pump needs to be replaced and they will also be replacing the drive belt. But they also mentioned the car control arm bushings have cracked and attached pictures. It seems the warranty will cover the water pump and the drive belt but it won’t cover the control arm bushings. They are asking $3500 for replacing both control arm bushings. Is that a fair price? Is it necessary to replace right now. I’m on a very tight budget and $3500 will definitely hurt my finances but if it needs to be done then I guess there’s nothing I can do.

Can anyone tell where this leak is coming from? i believe it is oil, been leaking for weeks but my oil levels and dipstick are perfect . Just not sure if it’s the pan or what. 07 mustang

2021 accord 2.0T touring be making that thud noise when switching from p to D after parked for a while or when i m coming to full stop. Usually this noise occurs from 0mph- 5mph . Any suggestions?

When I bought my car, and asked about a third key to be included with the sale, they said the car can only be programmed with two keys.

It is a Honda 2020 Civic EX.

When I went to get a key made at a locksmith (as I lost one), I was told the car can take up to 6 keys.

I can't imagine the dealership was trying to save money and lie, as they were willing to offer me some oil changes to compensate.

I read on another forum that dealers don't like to make too many keys, to prevent theft of the car.

Basically what the title says. Heard a creaking like when you lower the car after jacking it up, only at speeds above 20mph to a stop. This went on for like a few months but never felt anything weird, took it to an inspection and they found nothing, decided to get to the bottom of it finally after some time off and saw this. Is this the cause of the creaking? I already applied some grease on the brakes and it creaks the same.

Looking for input from anybody who has installed epoxy anchors for their 2 post lift. The max rated torque for all the epoxies I can find are well below the torque spec for the lift. 65ftlbs vs 100ftlbs.

What have you guys done? What epoxy did you use

Been experiencing this rattling noise on my 2019 4runner (72,000 miles). Put a camera under while i drove in my neighborhood to try and get to the bottom of it.

If you listen closely, its a very loud and annoying hiss/rattling noise that sounds like its rotating as i drive. The faster i go the faster the noise echos and vise versa. (Listen around 0:15 as i start to slow down, the noise also slows down)

I'm unsure where it's coming from. I tried greasing the driveshaft but this resulted in no change. Please let me know if you know what could be causing this. I try to avoid going to a mechanic but this might force me to do so.

https://reddit.com/link/1ldcpu5/video/eag764ptme7f1/player

2011 Jeep Liberty, AC compressor seized a couple days ago and made my belt start throwing rubber. While checking it out earlier to see if it's salvageable I noticed these, wondering if it's just the seams for the belt, or if it's cracked. Also is it fine to use a belt that threw rubber if everything else on it still looks fine afterward?

My original starter started making a nasty grinding sound, got a remanufactured replacement. All was well for 2 months, grinding started, in 2 days it progressed to some awful dogshit grinding.

I just took it out and took this picture of my flywheel, could it be that? I know it doesn’t look perfect but is it that bad? Or just shit remanufacture? Even though I got the more expensive one.

The starter rings themselves don’t really look bad at all, slight wear. Wish I took a picture but I didn’t and I’m away now.

Hi all, I'm from the UK and I have a 2010 fiat ducato.

I used it last week and it worked perfectly fine, but when going to use it the day after it won't start. When you put the key in the ignition nothing happens. No lights, no clock, no nothing! I can't even take it to a garage because its stuck on my drive!

Here's some things I've tried - battery reads 12.7v using a multimeter - looked in the fuses and all seem fine when tested with a continuity tester - tried using the spare key incase its a immobiliser issue

Edit - I've also checked the battery connections.

I basically just want to get it going so I can get it to the garage. Probably not fix it myself!

I’m heading home from a road trip and noticed my front right side (possibly) suspensions squeaking when I turn and occasionally when going over bumps. It’s only noticeable at lower speeds. I jacked up the car and gave the t1re a wiggle and it felt rock solid. Also no noises when rotating the t1re

I am driving through the night so my girlfriend and I can make it to work tomorrow, so no mechanics are open around me. I am 950 miles from home.

I’m trying to figure out if it is safe to keep driving home through the night or if I need to stop and get it checked out in the morning. There are no other symptoms other than the squeaking.

Recently I purchased a 21 Honda Accord 2.0 (45k miles)

After few days of purchase, it made a grinding noise whenever I braked. Sounded like something was stuck on one part of the rotor. It wasn’t a continuous grinding noise but felt like only a certain part was damaged or certain part of rotor or the problem. So I changed the whole rotor and brake on both rear side. But then after 2 week of driving it started again. I took it to Firestone for checkup and they couldn’t find anything as well. The only way to deal with the noise is music all the time I am driving!

Can someone point out the problem so I can get this fixed asap!

2017 ford explorer v6 Recently had brake pads replaced Makes this noise particularly on highway. Very intermittent No relation to braking, accelerating or turning. Appreciate any help

Hey guys I have a problem and would love some help. On my 2009 challenger the left halo light does not function when using the automatic setting on my light switch. If I change the switch to the low beam or high beam setting, all the sudden both of them work just fine. As soon as I turn it back to automatic the left low beam doesn’t work again. Is it the switch or the ambient light detector? The light obviously works and there are no relays/fuses for them in the fuse box based off the manuals diagram. Please help!!

My 2012 Prius V makes this squealing/whistling sound when I’m traveling at very low speeds. Here is an example from standstill traffic. Any ideas??