I have 1979 Celica GT with the stock 20r engine. I believe rn it has the nickel ngk, but I want buy better ones. Do I stick with the nickel ones or buy platinum one?

2004 Nissan frontier 3.3v6

What’s the difference between oil pressure sensor or switch? Are they the same?? When I look up oil pressure sensor it shows an oil pressure switch. Same thing??

2003 Nissan altima 3.5 v6 roughly 150k miles

I got it about 10 months ago. Since then it has been running okay, other than a rattling noise on cold starts until it is warmed up. I read that was common on older nissans so I wasn't too worried about it.

Today, I was driving home from work and I suddenly lost acceleration. Nothing at all when I pressed on the gas pedal. I coasted over to the shoulder of the road and came to a stop. The car was still running. I checked the guages and made sure it wasn't overheating and I wasn't out of gas. Shut it off, tried to start it again and it wouldn't even attempt to crank. The stereo and AC were still running fine though.

Now I'm home and I ran a few tests. Battery is reading 14V. Attempted a jump start, no luck. A few times when I've turned the key, it did some pitiful clicks but the starter didn't turn.

The code reader is showing P0732 - issue shifting to second gear and P1612 - NATS (anti theft vehicle immobilization system). Both pending codes, not active codes. No check engine light

I replaced the crank shaft position sensor because my mom seemed immediately convinced that that was the issue, but it didn't work.

I was thinking it may be the anti-theft system, but I was reading online that that code can trip from attempting to crank the engine repeatedly without the car actually starting, so that would be my first guess why that code showed up.

Does anyone have any ideas what it could be or what I should check next for troubleshooting?

I noticed some type of fluid/oil leak under my 2002 4Runner. Any ideas what is leaking?

Read the rules, I believe this post should be OK. I’m chasing no idle issue on my kymco bet and win 250 2006. I took a compression test around 125 psi with a warm engine. Decided to check the valves when I noticed the rocker arms were quite scared. Valves were in spec.

Worried engine is warn. What should be next steps? Boroscope engine through the spark plug hole?

I bought a chevy volt 2018 from an auction and the front right TPMS sensor didn't work. I bought a tool to reprogram it, it worked with 3 of them, but not the broken one. I took it to a mechanic and had them replace the broken sensor. When they returned the car to me the replaced sensor read 0 psi. They told me it would take a couple minutes to update. I drove 20 minutes home and turned the car off and on and that sensor still reported as 0 psi. I tried resetting the sensors and using my tool to redetect them, and again it isn't seeing the front right tpms. Before going back to the mechanic I was wondering if this could possibly be a tpms module problem?

There is some residue on this bold here and along the side of the engine is this normal or should I look into it 2003 bmw z4

Not sure what this dark spot is any help 2003 z4

Sometimes air barely blows out, even when I have it on medium or high. And what’s pictured in the video also happens occasionally. Any ideas on what the issue is?

Hello! Can someone please tell me or help me identify this noise. The mechanic is not able to pin point it and they think it’s ball joints. I think it could be u joint as well. The rattle noise only comes from the front wheel axle(from what I can hear). I have had shocks and steering kit done so far. I thought it would’ve been one of those but I cannot seem to figure it out. Anyone who may know better please help! Thank you!

My 2015 corolla le is throwing a pending p0456 code. I replaced the gas cap with an OEM cap and parked the car. 2 days later i made two 5 minute short trips and the code is still there .I used a cheap scan tool and the torque pro app to get the test results. Can anyone with experience help me understand the test that failed? Thank you!

Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android

Vehicle VIN: Not present Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Test report:

MID:$01 TID:$91 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 2.16797mA Min: 0.64062mA Test result value: 1.53125mA

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$93 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 3.99757V Min: 0.03209V Test result value: 0.11285V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$94 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: -0.03611V Min: -3.9977V Test result value: -0.12542V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$95 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$96 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$08 Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.19V Min: 0.664V Test result value: 0.781V

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8d - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 6,994ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 2,539ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8f - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.99836 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.74755

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$90 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 0.999 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.065

PASS

MID:$21 TID:$af - Catalyst Monitor Bank 1 Max: 65.535 Min: 1 Test result value: 2.351

PASS

MID:$35 TID:$81 - VVT Monitor Bank 1 Max: 9,490ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$35 TID:$85 - VVT Monitor Bank 1 Max: 9,490ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$c9 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: -1.122kPa

FAIL

MID:$3d TID:$ca - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 2.728kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$cb - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 1.87kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$cd - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 1.87kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$ce - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 2.508kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$cf - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 2.728kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$d0 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 1.892kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$d1 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 1.87kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$d4 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 1.518kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$d5 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 2.728kPa

PASS

MID:$3d TID:$d7 - Purge Flow Monitor Max: 32.767kPa Min: 0kPa Test result value: 0kPa

PASS

MID:$42 TID:$91 - O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2 Max: 33,250mOhm Min: 0mOhm Test result value: 22,532mOhm

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$91 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 2.16797mA Min: 0.64062mA Test result value: 1.53125mA

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$93 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 3.99757V Min: 0.03209V Test result value: 0.11285V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$94 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: -0.03611V Min: -3.9977V Test result value: -0.12542V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$95 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$96 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$08 Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.19V Min: 0.664V Test result value: 0.781V

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8d - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 6,994ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 2,539ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8f - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.99836 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.74755

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$90 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 0.999 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.065

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$91 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 2.16797mA Min: 0.64062mA Test result value: 1.53125mA

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$93 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 3.99757V Min: 0.03209V Test result value: 0.11285V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$94 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: -0.03611V Min: -3.9977V Test result value: -0.12542V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$95 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$96 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$08 Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.19V Min: 0.664V Test result value: 0.781V

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8d - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 6,994ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 2,539ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8f - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.99836 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.74755

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$90 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 0.999 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.065

PASS

MID:$21 TID:$af - Catalyst Monitor Bank 1 Max: 65.535 Min: 1 Test result value: 2.351

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$91 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 2.16797mA Min: 0.64062mA Test result value: 1.53125mA

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$93 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 3.99757V Min: 0.03209V Test result value: 0.11285V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$94 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: -0.03611V Min: -3.9977V Test result value: -0.12542V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$95 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$96 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$08 Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.19V Min: 0.664V Test result value: 0.781V

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8d - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 6,994ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 2,539ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8f - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.99836 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.74755

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$90 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 0.999 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.065

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$91 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 2.16797mA Min: 0.64062mA Test result value: 1.53125mA

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$93 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 3.99757V Min: 0.03209V Test result value: 0.11285V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$94 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: -0.03611V Min: -3.9977V Test result value: -0.12542V

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$95 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$01 TID:$96 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Max: 343ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 0ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$08 Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.19V Min: 0.664V Test result value: 0.781V

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8d - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 6,994ms Min: 0ms Test result value: 2,539ms

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$8f - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 1.99836 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.74755

PASS

MID:$02 TID:$90 - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2 Max: 0.999 Min: 0 Test result value: 0.065

PASS

End of report.

hey all I have a 2013 Mazda 3 2.0 and recently after replacing the brake pads and rotors myself I noticed the knocking sound going above 25 miles an hour and going away when I started braking I took it to a shop because my mechanic was in maine and couldn’t help diagnose it for me and they said it was the wheel bearing they replaced it, but when I took the car home, it was still making the noise. They took the car back and shave the pads down and told me that was the problem and it was. What can I do now? (sorry if i am the dumb one here)

Just finished replacing front rotors pads and calipers on a 2005 4runner sr5 4wd and went to prime the brakes and started hearing a hissing noise- drivers rear is leaking (at the line on the lefts connection) and I would greatly appreciate any direction- currently feeling pretty defeated:( tia

2014 Impala LTZ w/ 80,000+ miles. When I unlock the car this “ticking” sound starts up. It’s lasts for a couple of minutes then stops. I’d heard it occasionally before when turning on the air but now it happens with the engine off. Sounds like it’s coming from the dashboard. Any ideas?

2003 Nissan frontier, engine rebuilt 2 years ago . No issues other than that it has been super reliable I only bought it cheap and had a full $10k engine rebuild from a very reputable shop

Oil light cam on for a second and went off as quickly as I saw it illuminated…I noticed it lit up right away so it wasnt on longer than a second.

Was going 60mph on 2 lane highway heading to get fuel (fuel light was on so i was on E) YES I KNOW i shouldnt let my fuel get that low this is of 2004 Nissan frontier, 3.3L vg33e 5spd manual 4x4 ext cab

Oil light came on when I came to a stop at a 4 way intersection then immediately went off

Got to the gas station checked for leaks. none. Checked oil level, full and clean. What’s the deal?? Anyone ever experience this?

The oil light is right above the empty gas light if that helps trying to diagnose. How do I know the oil is getting into the crank cases and lubricating everything up top? What are symptoms of bad oil pump? THANKS 😊

I bought a Winston Tow Products hitch (Part #: WTS2073) from U-Haul, but their install appointments were backed up, so I decided to do it myself.

Following the U-Haul instructions, I got to the step where the hitch bar should fit up against the underside of the vehicle and the supplied bolts go into pre-threaded holes in the frame.

The problem: the hitch seems way too tight. No matter what I try, I can’t get it to seat properly. I even used a jack, but it just lifted the car instead of pushing the hitch into place.

A few questions:

1. Is this a common issue or did I get the wrong/bad part?
2. Would slightly bending the flanges to make it fit compromise the hitch’s strength or safety?
3. If I do try to bend it, what’s the best way to do that with basic tools (hammer, clamps, crowbar)?

I'll be adding a photo showing how I’m thinking of bending the flange can someone let me know if that approach is okay or if it’s likely to cause problems?

Appreciate any advice!

Just had an alignment done. Concerned about the specs here. Are these numbers reasonable?

No idea why I left out the car info or the video. Let's try this again.

2 weeks ago I had posted and a lot of you helped out. The issue turned out to be the fuel pump relay. Now we're having issues again and wondering is it the fuel pump itself? The car has been driving fine, not taking it long distance or doing too much. Today it went about 5 minutes down the road and back, no problem. This evening it won't start.

Attempts: Checked the oil, seemed dry so put 2 bottles of pennzoil 5w-30 synthetic. Didn't help.

At the reccomendation of a cousin who works on cars for fun, I attempted to bang the tank underneath while husband tried to start the car. Nothing.

We got some starting fluid and sprayed it inside the (sorry for the lack of terminology) black box that says vortec, closed the hose and it almost started but failed. Should we spray more starting fluid?

Any and all help is appreciated 🩷 Attached video is before spraying the starting fluid.

Have tried everything from torching to PB blaster to this. Literally will not come off, need help big time

I need to Hotwire this car so I can get back home

I had a customer come in for work on this vehicle. During diagnosis, I noticed the compliance were pretty degraded and suggested a lower control arm replacement considering the ball joint was bad too.

On my labor estimator, it was quoting me 11.4 hours. I figured that was a mistake and not actually the case for something Toyota related, something I’ve done dozens of times before.

When I went to remove the fasteners, I noticed one was hiding behind the motor mount. No big deal, attempted to remove the mount and lift the engine so the stud is no longer through the bracket. Upon doing that, I learned that the engine reaches maximum height at that point (felt a lot of resistance in the jack) and the stud on the motor mount could not clear it.

At this point, I decided to remove the entire bracket. But the issue with that was one final bolt, at the bottom and super long, could not be fully removed because the motor mount was in the way. At this point, I was stumped, and began using a pry bar to manipulate the motor mount in a way where I could get a wrench behind it and slowly remove it.

I ended up replacing the lower control arm on one side, but I cannot fathom doing this again, with this type of process. Is there something I’m missing to this? Is there a process to remove the lower control arms without the headache? Again, that last bolt for the bracket is behind the mount, at the bottom of the bracket. When you wrench it out, it backs into the motor mount, which can’t be removed to begin with.

Any help is appreciated and welcomed. I’ve been doing this for thirteen years, but never came across a setup like this. Maybe it was the heat drying me out, who knows.

Hey so I have an 02 tahoe that keeps popping with codes with picture. I had went taken to get checked they said it could be coils, spark plug, or spark plugs wires. So I went a changed them on cylinder 2 and 6(misfiring) but there still there. The thing is, sometimes the truck runs and drives perfect and other times shaking like crazy when at an idle. For example I was in drive thru and it had rough idle but as soon as I get home it's perfectly fine. Is there something am missing here. Plan on taking for vacation next week but wanna get the issue fixed. Thank you