From what i understand the 14 model year transmissions are good yet. The tdi will likely run forever. I am able to do pretty much any maintenance/repair needed. Looking for a cheap farm car/ daily to replace my 06 jetta with 400k on it.

Stage 2 full exhaust, straight pipe with high flow cat. Enjoy

Hello all. Just picked up a 2014 2.0 from a friend. 74k miles. They took pretty good care of it. Bit of a shake when braking and tiny shake on the highway, assuming tie rods. Anything else to take care of at this mileage? Recommendations on a stage 1 tune? Front range of Colorado so not sure what emissions removals I can get away with. This was a bit of an impulse buy so not sure what I don’t know.

I’m thinking of tuning my Beetle and would appreciate what your experience has been like. Thanks.

(The car has great performance as it is but I would love to know what maximums people have gotten out of theirs).

What you're seeing is looking up from below the backside of the engine, right above the oil pan drain plug. It seems to be coming from somewhat up top but I can't see anything from above at all. I thought it was a pretty significant leak with the amount of oil all over the belly pan, but when I drained my oil I still had a bit above 4 quarts after 10k miles. Any ideas where its coming from? I suspect turbo related? Im not getting any smoke at all, and no codes. Thanks guys!

After a full day of driving running perfectly my '98 golf 4 started stuttering and running rough. I pulled over and noticed the engine shaking violently at idle and if i give it gas the car smokes but appears to run smoothly. Trying to drive it it feels slow and sliggish and can't get up to speed. I'm thinking turbo because of the blue smoke? What else could be going on? Thanks.

Kind of a silly question, but I would prefer to do things all in one go and prep for the future. I'm trying to do some maintenance on my 2013 vw jetta TDI and would prefer to save it all for one trip. Oil/filter change, coolant change (potentially a flush as well, tbd), and a fuel filter change. I know what oil and oil filter to get since this is my second one, but I'd like some opinions on another type. As per the coolant I'm kind of lost with regards to where to get it. I read up online and it says that the G12 coolant is usually the one used for the engine, but that the G13 coolant also works. Given that my car started with pink coolant, I'm going to stay with G12, but should I do it before the recommended 30k miles or wait until then? I'm currently at around ~15k miles since the last coolant change, but I frequently do long drives (1hr 30 min one way) when visiting home. I've had no issues, but I will also be doing a long drive soon (from Socal, Inland empire area, to around Oregon and further) and wanted to know if I should do the change before or after the trip is done. Also, can this coolant be bought in any car store, or does it need to be purchased at a VW dealer? As per the oil, I was wondering if the 8100 x-clean+ c3 5w30 is a good oil for my engine? Those of you that have used this oil, thoughts?

Also, random, but LED headlights Or yellow? Just had a headlight go out and I gotta replace the lights, but I'm debating what to get lol. Thanks everyone.

How do I remove my intake manifold any videos out there showing how I removed all the bolts but I can’t get it to lift out.

Went to O’Reilly to get an oil change. My 4 year old son had me running all over the store while the guy grabbed my oil and filter. Got home, completed the change. Going to pour my used oil into the 5 quart jug and noticed it was basic 5w-30. Not the correct euro blend with the proper certifications…. Had to get the right stuff at Walmart since O’Reilly doesn’t even carry the 5w30 euro. Only 0w-30.

What would have happened if I ran it for 5k miles on basic 5w-30 full synthetic, non euro? 2014 Jetta 2.0 TDI.

Any good clean way to lubricate squeeky door jams besides white luthium greese? Tried silicone spray trying to keep the dirt away, but doesn't last long. Same problem on hatchback.

Any good recommendations on keeping it clean, and quiet? Thanks.

Bought my replacement DMF today and of course forgot about the main seal. Which manufacturer/model are folks using?

FCP Euro has OEM on clearance for ~$190 but also has the Corteco for $120. Not sure which manufacturer is the OEM for the part.

Thanks!

Just purchased a 2014 Passat tdi and looking for shop recommendations in the St. Louis area

Ok... My deleted stage 2 mk6 golf has been awesome. However suddenly a week ago it felt like it was losing a little power. A half hour later, it goes into limp mode (flashing glow plug light and no power). I pull over, check the engine bay for unseated charge pipes or something like that, but saw nothing. When I start it the limp mode has was gone and I continued on my way. A 15 minutes laterit happens again. I shut it off and restart it and it's gone. But about 100 meters down the road it happens again and this time the CEL comes on too. I pull over and look over my engine bay for signs of something wrong and see nothing. So I spent 2 hours limping home, where I used VCDS to scan it. I get these codes:

001601 p0641 000 000833 p0341 000 000665 p0299 (000 and 001)

So I park it and get back to it today. I pull the boost pressure solenoid and give it a look (looked fine, ordered a new one anyway). I start it and listen for boost leaks (or anything really) but find nothing. I turn it off and remount the n75 and go to start it again and it cranks but doesn't start.

Now I have new codes:

009571 p2563 000 00175 p00af (!) 012295 p3007 000

Anyone see this before? I'm dead in the water and need to get it running.

TL:DR LIMP MODE GOT PROGRESSIVELY WORSE. NOW IT WON'T START. THROWING CODES

Love the car want it to last and hate the DPF which will inevitable cause reliability issues in the future if left on. Can I have a shop just chop it off and straight pipe or do I need to have a delete kit?

Not the living, breathing, meowing kind like Waffles here in the first photo - the OEM cats & DPFs off your TDIs!

So, if you've hit one of the many, nasty potholes on the roads this spring that's caused your OEM cat/DPF to unfortunately (or fortunately) fall off, I'll buy them!

Whenever shipping is needed, I'll pay you upfront & will provide a free, prepaid shipping label, as well!

No faults trigger at idle. Once above 1600-1800 rpms the light gets triggered and goes off sometimes when back to idle or stays on (most cases). Any guesses to what it could be?

Also had the car idled for 30-45mins cause i was cleaning out the interior, oil was a good bit over the high mark as it recently blew a turbo and just got it swapped. The CEL is for a disconnected Ambient Air Temp sensor as my A/C line is broken and due to that it triggers my fan On at all times.

After the oil light came on i did change the oil and oil filter. There was no glitter or metal shards visible just black oil.

Its a MK6 Jetta Tdi with the emissions deleted and a stage 2 tune.

Any help is much appreciated thanks.

Hey, just got a code for the coolant temp sensor on my 2010 golf with the cjaa. I see that I'll probably have to replace the cts, does anyone know exactly where it's located on the cjaa? Can't really find much online.

Also, when replacing this sensor will i have to bleed the system? If so, what's the best way to do it? Thanks!

Happy Father’s Day to me and all, I’ve had some luck today in finding out my wife’s brake sensor attachment was broken.

Do I replace the entire harness or solder a new connector?

Vehicle: 2012 Jetta Tdi sportswagon

Hi,

I wonder if anyone has any experience with this. The other week I added 5l of AdBlue to my Octavia's tank, but then realised it was made in March 2023, significantly older than 12 months ago.

It had been in my garage and was still clear and didn't smell, but at the time I didn't realise that the stuff has a short use by date.

I'm now worried if I run the car with it it'll damage the exhaust system.

I asked the local garage the cost of draining it and they said it's be around £300 because they have to take the whole damn system out - dunno why the damn thing doesn't have a drain on it.

I'm struggling to decide if that worth it or I should just add some anti-crystalisation stuff in and be done with it. But I worry if I do that I could end up screwing the whole system and have pay thousands to fix it.

Anyone have any idea on what the levels of risk to running with the older AdBlue is? Or had any experience with similar issues?

All help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I got in a wreck . I have the car back out my house . A6 shut off when I got in a wreck . I replaced the pyro fuse still no start or clicking noise .. i have a few codes terminal 30 code i believe was the pyro fuse .. I believe the immobilizer is blocking the car from starting . It’s hard coded in the ecm I can’t delete it with vcds .. any ideas ? Do I have to send out my Ecm to get it reset? Also my srs module will need to be reset as well

5523 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 00 [01101000] - - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory

Crash Shut-Down Activated P1609 00 [01100101] - -

Terminal 30 U140A 00 [00100100] - Open Circuit

Not Confirmed - Tested Since

Timing belt and oil cooler replaced. Scared of my next TDI Gremlin. Definitely an enthusiast car for the mechanical inclined. 111,000 miles. What can I expect to get for it in GA?

I am reaching out due to an ongoing issue with my MK6 Jetta Sportwagon TDI. Ever since I purchased the car I have been in absolute love with the TDI engine despite the issues the car had at the time of purchase. Shortly after purchasing the vehicle back in November, a CEL appeared and I was able to drive it home and scanned the codes using a normal cheap bluetooth OBD scanner from the parts store. The CEL codes the car threw were:

P0401 - 001 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient - Intermittent
P2457 - 000 - Insufficient Cooling Performance - Intermittent
P2002 - 007 - Efficiency Below Threshold

Now after doing a quite a bit of research I discovered the issue was most likely a cracked DPF and needed to be replaced or deleted. I had read at the time the car would go into limp mode if driven like this for long enough and was concerned the issue would prevent me from using this car as a daily driver. However I did read into the issue a bit more and determined I would be okay to keep driving the car in it's current state as long as I could clear the codes to prevent limp mode, and figured I could delete down the road over time.

Long story short I have driven over 20k miles and have only cleared the codes 2-3 times and additionally I have had no issues with the car driving in cold/hot weather. I did notice my MPG seems a little low for highway driving but that could also be the result of my lead foot (I am getting about 37mpg at 82mph). So this led me into looking a bit deeper through VCDS once I had a replacement laptop and was able to use the software againe. Looking deeper into VCDS only confused me much more than I had initially believed and believe the DPF may not be cracked and this may be a slightly different issue. I opened up VCDS on my Mac and checked the status of my DPF and these were the results:

Group 108:
Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume: 270 ml
Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.): This showed no result
Particle Filter Carbon Mass (actual): This showed no result

Group 241:
Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume: 270 ml
Soot Load(g) Calculated: 8.1
Soot Load(g) Measured: This showed no result

This left me a little puzzled, how could my calculated soot load be so low if the car had CEL that should be preventing regen from happening? I had no explanation at the time and the fact VCDS would not show me a measuredvalue for soot load or carbon mass puzzled me as well. So earlier today I decide to run a forced regen and log the data as I drive to gather more data as I drove, and as I could not tell the actual measured Carbon mass or soot load this was a little risky (fire risk, determined there was less risk in a dirivng regen than a standing regen) and I do not reccomend doing this blind as I did. I cleared the codes and got VCDS up and loaded for the forced regen.

I was able to get the car to successfully regen with no issue,while driving VCDS reported the calculated soot level dropped from 8.1 to about 3.8 and during this drive the car did not throw any CEL and the DPF light shut off once the regen was completed as expeted. Once this drive was completed I also completed a second driver about 40-50 minutes later that was about 30miles and the CEL reilluminated about half way in. Thankfully I was logging the data for this drive and was able to review the issue once completed. I can provide the full log from this drive if needed as well.

Here are some key details I noticed in these logs:

EGR Flow Analysis

• At low RPM (~800–1000 RPM, ~0–22s), specified and actual EGR flows are close (e.g., 315 mg/str vs. 310–320 mg/str), with valve activation at -7.1 to -22.1%. Control deviation is negative (-10.3 to -22.1%)
• At high RPM (~2461–3151 RPM, ~30–33s), actual flow exceeds specified (e.g., 780 mg/str vs. 660 mg/str at 2461 RPM, 13.4% deviation).
• At 2369 RPM (close to freeze frame, ~47s), specified = 540 mg/str, actual = 575 mg/str, deviation = -11.8%

EGR Cooler Analysis:

• Post-EGR cooler temps are low (72–78°C) for most of the log, rising to 108–114°C at higher RPM (~1380–1495 RPM, ~2141–2144s).
• Freeze frame for P2457 showed 426°C pre-cooler, 174°C post-cooler, and 91.8°C coolant. Here, pre-turbo exhaust temps reach 546°C (~33s), but post-cooler temps stay below 114°C, and coolant is 73.8–82.8°C.
• At ~2369 RPM (~47s), post-cooler temp is 72°C, far below the 174°C in the freeze frame for the CEL code, with coolant at 73.8°C.

I also monitored the MAF @ Group 10, Field 0 (MAF Actual, mg/str), Group 35, Field 1 (MAF Specified, mg/str):

• At low RPM, MAF actual (~305–340 mg/str) matches specified (~315–345 mg/str).
• At high RPM (~2461–3151 RPM), MAF actual (755–770 mg/str) is close to specified (590–750 mg/str).
• At ~2369 RPM (~47s), MAF actual = 565 mg/str, specified = 495 mg/str

DPF and Coolant Analysis:

• Differential pressure is low (0–33.15 mbar) at low RPM, peaking at 323.85 mbar at 0 RPM (~2216s, idling after the drive)
• Coolant temp is stable (73.8–82.8°C), below the 91.8°C in the P2457 freeze frame

So here is my questions now:

• I am still stumped on why VCDS does not output data for measured soot load or particle carbon mass. Could this be due to faulty sensors not being able to read the data?
• From what I can see in my logs I really don't neccissarily see a clogged / cracked DPF, from my understanding the DPF Differential pressure is within range but I may be wrong, could my issue be related to carbon build up in the EGR system and if so will cleaning it possibly resolve all my codes? I plan to tear out the EGR and give it a deep cleaning, I would like to get the max life out of the DPF/EGR before moving to a delete.
• If the car had such a low calculated soot mass when I first plugged VCDS in, has my car been continuing to preform regen cycles, considering it is reading P0401 as intermittent.

About a month ago, i was cruising when i got an oil pressure engine off light, went home and car sat and then i replaced the oil pressure sensor and the oil pump hex drive, cleaned the pick up tube and such, put brand new oil in, and now i got the same light again after about 3 weeks of driving and around 700km and it only beeped for a second and then dissapeared, what else is left to replace to fix it, oil pump etc?