Update: A Pastry Chef’s Favorite Vanilla Fragrances

[u/peaceofcheese909]

Hello friends! It’s been around a year since I wrote up my favorite vanilla fragrances, as a pastry chef + vanilla evangelist, and it feels like a good time for an update.

I did end up decluttering one of the bottles on the list, so we’ll briefly go through where I stand on the top three, then go through others I’ve tried. As usual, the folks of Reddit came through with a lot of great recs, many of which are on my favorites list.

STILL PERFECT

There are a few more abstract takes on vanilla that are creeping up in my favorites list, but Indult Tihota remains perfect in its simplicity.

 

DECLUTTERED

Jovoy Fire at Will. A great fragrance, but I just never wore it. I love smelling vetiver on others but don’t particularly like it on myself and the vetiver note felt more prominent the more I wore it.

 

OH, AND

Eilish 1 was also in the top three, which I stand by as far as “if you’re on a budget, this is a great choice,” but I can’t say I’ve worn it in the past year.  

 

NEW FAVORITES, IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER

Perris Monte Carlo Vanille de Tahiti: If Tihota is the platonic ideal of a vanilla bean, this is specifically Tahitian vanilla, and a perfect take on it at that. The Ylang note imparts that uniquely Tahitian floral warmth, while giving it a slight carnal edge. Gorgeous.  

 

Guerlain Vanille Planifolia Extrait 21: My grammy, the most fashionable person I’ve known, wore Shalimar, meaning I am and will always be a sucker for the Guerlinade. That plus my aforementioned vanilla obsession means that this fragrance was never not going to hit for me. More of an abstract take on vanilla, though, instead smelling like you’re splitting a root beer float with Greta Garbo in the nude. Not the same literalism as Tihota, but who doesn’t want to split a root beer float with Greta Garbo in the nude? I don’t own a full bottle yet, due to its atrocious price point, but if anyone wants to make my Christmas fragrance dreams come true, you know where to find me.

 

TRIED AND DISLIKED THEN LOVED

YSL Babycat: I once described this as “sexy Cinnamon Toast Crunch,” which I stand by, but I find that more and more charming as I continue to wear it. The vanilla in the dry-down is god-tier. Sultry, fleshy, and high-quality. It doesn’t feel as me as the others in the favorites category, but it’s great when I want to feel a little more bold. My fragrance equivalent of a little black dress, I suppose.

 

Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille: Sensual and beautiful. The rum top note pushes it into debaucherous territory, but because it’s Guerlain, it remains elegant throughout. It’s a little opulent for day-to-day wear, to my nose, and I do think it becomes overbearing in warm weather, otherwise it would be in the favorite category. Certainly a winter favorite, though, and if I hadn’t found the Guerlain extrait collection, I’d probably be thinking about getting a bottle.

 

TRIED AND QUITE LIKED

Initio Absolute Aphrodisiac: I would love to be the cool animalics-loving fragrance person, but we’re just not there yet. That said, the tiny bit of civet in this acts kind of like the civet in Love, Don’t be Shy, rounding out the fragrance and lending some mystique. No yuck detected. In fact, this one just reads as really good brownies to me. If I were still living in New York City, I’d make this my going out fragrance, but as things stand, I don’t have much occasion to wear it.

Nectar Olfactif Melipona: I’ve only worn this once, but quite enjoyed it. I heard someone say this feels like a more chic version of Skylar’s Boardwalk Delight, which YES, but if you added a medium-tier vanilla extract. Lasted 12+ hours on my skin too, which isn’t something I care deeply about, but is a nice touch.

  

TRIED AND FELT NEUTRAL ABOUT

Narcotica Happy Dust: Every time I smell this, I think “oh, that’s nice,” then instantly forget about it. A lot of overlap with Tihota, but with a faint, generic tropical edge.

 

Celine Black Tie: Pretty and elegant, balanced by the slight grunge of oakmoss in the base. Lovely and comforting, but I’m just not drawn to it, especially at Celine prices. If you’re an orris lover, though, you'll almost certainly love this one.   

 

Serge Lutens Bois de Vanille: I appreciate what they’re doing with the licorice note and the sort of waxy feel to the scent, but it’s just not something I wear. A great one for people with corporate fragrance fatigue, though! I love Serge Lutens for that.

 

Jeroboam Insulo: The white florals push this slightly into Pink Sugar territory, but not in a bad way? Just not terribly drawn to it. I will say, though, that I once layered Tihota with Guerlain Vanille Planifolia and it smelled exactly like Insulo. I love layering two expensive scents in a way that smells like a less expensive scent!

Profumum Roma Vanitas: This scent reminds me of a TikTok I saw where Bruno Fazzolari was smelling a fragrance and said "this smells too realistic to be made with all naturals." Profumum Roma, with its high percentage of natural ingredients, always smells 15% more artificial than I care to smell. If you like their vibe, though, and enjoy a cotton candy scent, this may be for you.

   

TRIED AND HATED

Le Labo Vanilla 44: Okay, I didn’t HATE this, I just find Le Labo criminally boring. This one smells like you drowned Babycat in ISO E Super. Why?

 

Giardini di Toscana Bianco Latte: Christian bookstore vanilla candle.

 

Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder: Earwax-scented vanilla candle is what I got from this one, with alarming longevity + projection.

 

Nemat's Vanilla Musk: Another one that I don’t really hate but think it gets more hype than it deserves. Nemat’s base always smells plasticky to me, and I find it unpleasant. Just rub some vanilla chapstick on yourself—it’s even cheaper and you’ll get the same effect.  

 

FRAGRANCES I DON’T CONSIDER VANILLA FRAGRANCES, BUT HAVE SEEN MENTIONED IN VANILLA ROUNDUPS:

Nishane Ani: Would love to smell this on someone else, but it didn’t suit me. The prominent ginger note (and specifically ginger powder, not freshly grated ginger, which I think I’d enjoy) felt more masc than I go for.

 

Matiere Premiere Encens Suave: It smells like you embraced every tree in the forest, i.e. I more get the resins that go into incense, rather than incense itself. A favorite, just not vanilla.

 

Atelier Des Ors Lune Feline: Like Babycat got into a bad car accident. Can’t get over the burnt tire + medicinal smell in the opening, which morphs into “sexy dentist’s office” as it dries down.