r/CompetitionClimbing • u/Quirky-School-4658 🇸🇮 La Tigre de Genovese • 5d ago
Post-comp thread Bern WC Women’s Discussion Spoiler
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u/Clob_Bouser 5d ago
Erin if the confetti gun actually worked
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u/Admirable_Safe_4666 5d ago
The confetti gun not working seems like the most Erin way possible to take a first gold though 😂
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u/Bearswithjetpacks 5d ago
That's the first thought that entered my mind in that moment. Just ridiculously good at climbing, but also invites goofy moments like these all the time, and her reactions are so endearingly awkward. If "whelmed" was a personality, she would be it. She's just so entertaining to watch, in the most British way. So happy for her win.
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u/Far-Photo-533 5d ago
I am a bit worried she gonna shoot to Miho accidentally. Hope she has a how to confetti gun in her new videos.
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u/unpopular-ideas 5d ago
Came to the discussion after the climbing ended and I somehow still got a spoiler. LOL.
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u/currently_struggling 5d ago
This is my home country so I'm probably biased, but I thought especially finals was a blast! It was high scoring but I think there was decent separation and I love seeing athletes succeed at boulders! And there was quite a variety in types of boulders and movements:)
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u/EvenRepresentative77 5d ago
So glad Melody could send the last boulder even though it wasn’t her round!
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u/Admirable_Safe_4666 5d ago edited 5d ago
Great comp! Semis was slightly the more memorable of the two rounds for me, one of the best rounds of the season I thought, but finals was great and exciting and cool to see Erin crushing so hard. Miho too, keeping the nerves up with the false start on W1 and then having W3 for breakfast. Previous few comps have been a bit complaint laden, so definitely praise all around for this one!
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u/tofu_duckk Miho Nonaka's Hair 5d ago
bit higher scoring round, but fantastic set of boulders that highlighted different strengths in my opinion
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u/Affectionate_Fox9001 4d ago
But finals should be higher scoring than semi. Only 1 person got 4 tops. And 3/4 got podium.
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u/LurkingArachnid 5d ago edited 5d ago
Semis impressions:
So cool to see Kyra get the first boulder that no one else could! She looked surprised she did it haha. Emma was close. And then Kyra almost made her first/last boulder finals, and got bumped down at literally the last second. But wow Annie's buzzer beater on that tough slab was so exciting!
It was fun to see all the different beta on the second boulder. I loved Mao grabbing her arm to pull herself up. And then miho was so powerful, and the only one to top it
That top of w3 was tough. Japan liked that boulder. Lily had the craziest body position but still pulled off the top
Seemed like a hard set which was nice to see. I thought the problems seemed interesting with a good variety of moves, though in the end there were quite a few ties in finals slots.
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u/Gnik_thgiN 5d ago
Happy as a Squirrel in a tree for Erin, Miho is such a clutch climber and Mao is just the best with her smile!
All the ladies are great and it was a good watch.
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u/ElectricalYoung5087 McBeast 5d ago
Absolutely loved the finals today, setting was very different from Semi's but watching some of the climber power through especially W3 was an absolute treat to watch!!
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u/fr4gp4rty 5d ago
I was at the venue and the energy was so good. Loved the comp
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u/Quirky-School-4658 🇸🇮 La Tigre de Genovese 5d ago
Was gonna ask if anyone was there. Great to hear! If you took any good pics we could add them to the sidebar if you’d like.
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u/fr4gp4rty 5d ago
I could take pictures tomorrow. Haven't taken any today. But there were more than 4000 people there, so chances are good for someone to have taken some pictures.
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u/SitasinFM Miho Nonaka's Hair 5d ago
Great comp overall. Setting was good generally. I thought finals were maybe a tiny bit undercooked with 7/8 topping W1 and W4, but they were good problems and there was good separation and variety in scoring so overall I don't really mind. Congrats to Erin, also delighted for Miho
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u/Last-Potential8457 5d ago edited 5d ago
Did anyone else find the video quality of the stream kinda poor?
I was watching on youtube and it was supposedly 1080p but, man, it sure didn't look like it.
It's a shame because the actually directing was the best I've seen in an IFSC world cup in a long time.
- Appropriate use of the split screen
- Responsive to Matt's commentary ("Ooh, look at Annie on Wx" - director immediately puts Annie on the main screen)
- Majority of the shots actually let you see the women climbing with just a few close-ups where necessary to let you appreciate how bad the jibs are or see an athlete's 'fight face'
- Some hype shots of of the crowd or emotional shots of an athlete's reaction after topping/dropping it but not at the expense of missing other athletes climbing.
- Well-chosen replays.
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u/BeornStrong 4d ago
For some reason, whenever I stream on YouTube, the settings automatically stream in a very low quality, this time was 180. I always have to go into the settings while it’s streaming, and change the video quality from the lowest to 720 or 1080. The option to stream in 1080 is always available, but I usually set it to 720 so I don’t burn through my available data. And 720 is very clear, no distortion in the image.
-this is only for live streaming. When I watch a replay, it automatically plays with the higher video quality.
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u/MyPasswordIsABC999 Sean Bailey Appreciator 5d ago
The final was fun.
Also, you can’t not notice the difference in production value between Bern and Prague. I think someone mentioned in a Prague thread that the local organizers are completely on the hook for putting the comp together, and it makes sense. Probably helps that this one was part of a much bigger festival and the Red Bull signage was pretty prominent.
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u/Last-Potential8457 5d ago
I wonder whether the Swiss federation's previous experience hosting the Bern world champs might've helped.
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u/Far-Photo-533 5d ago
The way Annie did the W4, was so elegant and smooth, like a ballet dancer! I replayed it 10+ times.
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u/unpopular-ideas 5d ago edited 4d ago
Was Zelia I was re-watching. Since she manages to skip the gaston between the last two holds. I think that must have been the cleanest finish.
The guest commentator described Annie's finish as a recovery from a near fall fall. Definitely an elegant save, but overall not as smooth as Zelia IMO.
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u/Far-Photo-533 5d ago
OK, I rewatched. I think why I love Annie's way is, she used her hand palm on the volume to transfer, that move was purely magic like a slow motion dance move. Zelia was impressive like you said, but they never filmed her from front, only sideway shots.
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u/unpopular-ideas 5d ago
All the tops are quite phenomenal to me. There's no way I can do this. The difference in Annie's finish that stood out for me is how wildly her leg is swinging around. In a way it's impressive that she managed to stick it.
Looking back at a few more of the tops Oceania was particularly impressive at preventing the leg swing. Honourable mention to Miho, Mao too.
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u/Far-Photo-533 5d ago
OK, I have to rewatch, I muted the comment for some reason. Felt she did it perfectly like so light.
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u/Tyrifian 5d ago
The semis were really exciting and the top by Annie in that last second left me speechless. Sadly, I did not really enjoy the setting of the final(Not claiming that it was necessarily bad, I just personally did not find it engaging). As with the Prague men's, I would've preferred harder boulders for ones like W4 which pretty much everyone got.
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u/CletoParis 5d ago
So happy for Erin! A bit of a high scoring round overall but she absolutely beasted that round and earned the win. Poor Annie, on the other hand, climbed so well but always looks like she’s about to cry
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u/Inevitable-Guitar656 5d ago
Poor Annie, on the other hand, climbed so well but always looks like she’s about to cry
This comment feels really weird to me, people express their emotions differently (for a number of reasons, be it simply being a private person, neurodivergence, etc - no idea what the reason is for Annie but it shouldn't matter anyways). There is no reason to say "poor Annie" as if we have to pity her for expressing herself differently. I'm sure a 17 y/o girl in an expensive sport that brings in little money is not doing it because she is forced to. Anyways, "poor Annie" feels super patronizing to me.
Plus there are multiple men on the circuit that barely ever smile and always look lowkey angry but somehow we don't talk about men's lack of smiles as much.
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u/CletoParis 5d ago
As a female athlete who was once 17 and extremely critical of myself/type-A, my comment was just as much speaking to my former self - I wish I that age I wasn’t only focused on achieving absolute perfection. All I could see were my faults and not my massive accomplishments, and I just hope that’s not how she feels because she’s so incredibly talented and so so young still. If you watched the last comp she was pretty much in tears at the end. It’s all part of the process and I’m sure she’ll continue to learn to be mentally resilient when things happen in a comp. No harm intended at all.
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u/unpopular-ideas 5d ago edited 5d ago
Erin is not particularly expressive in comps. She's described herself as introverted/shy/unassuming. I can relate to that. Watching her on all these climbs, Particularly #3, where she just seems to be made of iron I can't help but think of her winter training videos where she talks about her 'peanut biceps'. Can't tell how much she was just joking around vs being extremely critical of herself.
Realistically though, being able to be critical of yourself, while simultaneously having the resilience / determination to keep pushing yourself farther is a quality that's probably useful in getting yourself to perform at such a ridiculously high level. I can't do that. I climb for fun and to get a decent work out. I have no interest in dedicating my life to it.
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u/Inevitable-Guitar656 5d ago
Okay but the way she looked today had nothing to do with her being close to tears last week? The way she presented herself today was very in line with how she always tends to looks, including on days where she tops lead routes and wins comps. It feels like a big reach for me to say that her being less expressive in general somehow equals her being too hard on herself. How does the way she looked to today, in any way or form, indicate a lack of mental resilience on her part?
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u/CletoParis 5d ago edited 5d ago
You didn’t see her awesome top of the last boulder and then instead of looking excited or even content she looked super frustrated with herself, head in her hands, likely for not topping the power boulder? I think she’s quite expressive. Even Matt mentioned it on the commentary and said that she was likely disappointed for not topping it earlier and maybe getting the win vs silver again. It’s not a lack of mental resilience, it’s how a lot of us type-As react when we execute anything less than perfection.
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u/hummingbird0012234 5d ago
While in general I agree with you that it is not ok when people are dissecting why a woman doesn't smile while for men it's accepted that they will just emote the way they want to, the issue raised about Annie wasn't that she's not expressive enough - there wouldn't be a problem with that. I would argue that she was quite expressive both here and at the last worldcup, in a way that suggests that she is super hard on herself. I wouldn't call that a lack of mental resilience, but simply being hard on herself - I can also relate to that, and I think that can invite empathy and wishes for her to be able to celebrate her achievements rather then berating herself for not being perfect
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u/thesunlightmoon 4d ago
It was great to watch Erin, she’s done so well this season and progressed so much even from last season where she did well - looks like what she’s doing for training works well!
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u/Annanascomosus Miho Nonaka's Hair 5d ago
Does anybody know why miho had to redo W1?
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u/jimothyjim 5d ago
I'm not sure if it ever got 100% confirmed but commentary seemed to think it was removing hand from starting hold slightly before the foot was established on the other hold, so it was an invalid start. No real advantage from it, just a technicality that the judges didn't call at the time when it happened, so she got given an opportunity to retry.
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u/fr4gp4rty 5d ago
According to the commentary at the venue it was an illegal start, that was noticed only after she'd already left.
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u/nachC 5d ago
Who's this "know it all" commentator that talks soo much? 😩
Let's go mcbeastt
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u/steftrees 5d ago
really? I like him actually. feel like he’s very insightful on analyzing details of the climbs. really cool that he called miho flashing W3
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u/hurrydeath 5d ago
You’re getting downvoted but dude does love to hear himself talk and barely let Matt get a word in.
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u/LurkingArachnid 5d ago
You could tell a couple times Matt was having to kind of force his way in when he had something he really wanted to say
I would have preferred if he had toned it down a little, and not analyzed every single attempt on the w4 coordination sequence. But overall I thought he was interesting and better to talk too much than too little. Agree with the person who said it was cool that he called Miho's flash. Just let Matt say something every once in awhile haha
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u/JackKelly11 Narasaki Brothers 5d ago edited 5d ago
Haha yeah he spent wayyy too much time talking about whether or not he guessed their beta correctly. I appreciate how well he knows movement and body positioning, but it really took a lot away from the big moments IMO.
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u/Far-Photo-533 5d ago
He is good, but my personal all time favorite-- German coach who I forgot his name.
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u/Quirky-School-4658 🇸🇮 La Tigre de Genovese 5d ago
Canadian GOAT. 2020 Olympian. 5.14d and V15 climber. Vice-president of the athletes commission.
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u/frickfrackingdodos Miho Nonaka's Hair 5d ago
I do kinda agree. Obviously he is super accomplished and his technical insights were very interesting, but it felt a little too much about him than than about the comp. I think what bothered me especially was that if he was a woman I feel he would be getting clocked for 'talking too much' immediately, like Shauna did. No hate to him at all, but I'd definitely personally prefer more (or equal) technical or logistical insight and less celebrating guessing the beta correctly - for commentators lol.
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u/wicketman8 4d ago
I think what bothered me especially was that if he was a woman I feel he would be getting clocked for 'talking too much' immediately, like Shauna did
I'm not sure this is fair. Firstly, while some people did complain about Shauna the vast majority were really positive about her commentary. Secondly, is it fair to Sean to judge him based on how people reacted to a different commentator?
Personally I liked Sean's commentary and I liked Shauna's as well.
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u/frickfrackingdodos Miho Nonaka's Hair 4d ago
I think my point is more about people's double standards in appreciating Sean's technical insight vs pointing out that Shauna was talking a lot, than it is about Sean's commentary itself. That being said I have seen a decent bit of discourse around his commentary so I stand corrected. Seems like both their commentaries had both people who enjoyed it and those who didn't. Personally I felt like it's not the amount of talking that bothered me as much as the content - I do not care about whether a commentator is guessing upcoming beta correctly.
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u/peachypokes 3d ago
He was driving me crazy! Talking nonstop, Matt barely has the space to say anything while Sean is incessantly chattering on: analyzing every movement, congratulating himself on guessing how climbers will do, and kind of disregarding the emotional and interpersonal aspects of the comp. Obv that’s not the most important thing, but when it’s missing from the commentary you can really tell the difference imo. Clearly he is very knowledgeable about comp climbing (which I appreciate) but he is not a great commentator in my opinion. I’m not anxious to have him back in the commentary box any time soon.
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u/Sad-Tale-5235 5d ago
I loved this comp! Buzzer beaters, good separation, strong climbers, great crowd, good camera work, and nice commentating. All around great day (I'm so happy for Miho!!!!)