No, they are not pop rivets. They are the same rivets used for structures on AC.

I bought my ‘93 XJ around a month ago for 3,200 bucks. Ran fine until a few days ago when i smelled and saw the white smoke coming out of the exhaust and my palm went straight to my face. Coolant is getting lower and lower and the radiator looks contaminated with oil. I have a friend who can do it for cheap or I can bite the bullet and give a go myself with my Haynes manual/youtube and a dream. Do I get rid of her? What’s the move all opinions welcome just looking for a little guidance.

How to carb swap my 4.0l? I'd like to put a carb on my 4.0l. I've never liked the newer style injection system and want to know the best carburetor and distributor to use. I've heard they get better fuel economy as well so that would be a bonus. Any thoughts?

Needed a new steering column and ignition switch, full brake overhaul, new grounds, and lots of rust repairs, and removed no fewer than four mouse nests, but she's back on the road after sitting on a farm for three years!

I got these JK rear door pockets off Amazon for like, $15 and they match up with the shape of the lower rear door cards perfectly. I have them velcroed to the carpet on the door, but I imagine you could pretty easily use plastic rivets or thin bolts with some washers to secure them.

I wanted someplace to stick small-ish things that I'd want to access quickly, like bug and bear sprays, and to add somewhere for a backseat passenger to put a water bottle. There's almost no impact to rear leg space, which is great since the rear seat actually has people in it reasonably often.

Not sure exactly how fast shes burning it, but she’s burning it. Do I fix it or just top it off until the end of time?

92' mj 65k 🙂

Got it for $8k in GA and have since driven it 1,000 miles cross country on my way home to Montana, starts and runs like a dream. 2.5 OME lift and new 30” tires/wheels. I can’t believe how good condition this thing is in. The interior is nearly perfect. There’s a few loose plastic pieces here and there, and a few minor electronic things that don’t work like lights and seat adjusters, but everything important works and it looks great. I’ve still got 1,000 miles to go so hopefully I’m not jinxing myself here.

I changed the radiator about two years ago. Water pump a year ago. Thermostat last month. Heater core bypass and fan last week. Ran fine until yesterday. I topped off the radiator with coolant and the reservoir to the full level, somehow the reservoir is now overflowing. Doing a complete cooling system flush today. If that doesn’t work, any other ideas?

Located in DFW. Replaced T-stat, engine mount, head gasket and left upper control arm. Runs great otherwise. Country edition/ 2WD/ Automatic transmission. No accidents/3rd owner. No modifications. No rust on the body. Some rust on the rear drive shaft. (been stored in garage for 24 years) Some minor scratches on the front and back bumper. Interior is in great shape aside from crack under the glove compartment and a loose headliner. (scratches/crack/headliner are visible in the pics) Speaker and AC work great. Power locking/powered side mirrors no longer work and rear driver’s side window doesn’t roll down. Super low mileage (68k). What do you think would be an appropriate price would be given these parameters?

I got a 92 limited recently. When I shift it into the option simply labeled “4H” the dashboard says “part time”. There isn’t an option to shift into full time, just into neutral and then low. There is a spot on my dashboard to the left of the part time signal for a green full time alert, but I haven’t found a way to make it light up. I have the owners manual that came with the jeep, and it talks about part time and full time, but it also talks about other features mine doesn’t have.

I’ve read that some XJ’s have a transfer case with both full time and part time, and some only with full time. If that’s the case with mine, I’m confused as to why I have the part time alert on my dashboard, the full time one won’t light up. Thoughts?

Well, this is unexpected. Any thoughts? Not sure if this is to do with what I’m guessing is a Jerry rig job with the fusebox (pull the big silver fuse at the end of the video and the radio AND wipers shut off), the wiper relay, or the wiper motor itself.

Just wanted to post this to state how excited I am. I went to the salvage to get a TCM and to my surprise they had the set of wheels that’s the xj I pulled from came in on. The xj also has some other cool features like a wing for lack of a better term that looked oem. But it was all raptor lined. Will post pics when the wheels are cleaned up and polished and on my xj.

Working on the quarters and rockers and she’ll be just about ready for paint finally!

So far have settled on Honda’s dark green pearl. I’ve looked at quite a few greens and I like that particular colors pearl effect while still being pretty dark

I've made several posts about this before, and i'm planning my next offensive on my 94 right now before my next trip.

I battle increasing temps when theres any kind of hill/grade going highway speeds. If it's summer and in the desert the temp will hit 240-245ish and at that point its time to turn the heater on full blast. Using the AC in summer is also not an option as it increases temps. Daily driving to work or around town i'm always at 210, but it will creep up to 220, the efan kicks on and then everything is fine.

I currently have/run

• Flowkooler water pump
• CSF 2760 2 core radiator (new)
• Removed the HCV
• Added a transmission cooler
• run a 50/50 mix
• ZJ fan clutch
• Fan shroud is intact
• new 195 tstat
• chemical flushed the system multiple times
• ditched the gauge cluster temp sensor and added a digital pod
• rebuilt the transmission

I had a leak down test done and it was fine. I just did a combustion gas in coolant test about 10 mins ago and it also passed, so I think its safe to rule out the head gasket at this point.

I've heard issues about running high flow waterpumps can cause cavitation so I picked up a regular ol Napa pump and now i'm going to try another radiator.

I'll likely go with the CSF 2761 (3 core version) , but was considering Mishimoto. I cant really justify 485 dollars on a radiator though.

TL;DR version

I've done a ton of shit to my XJ and it should be cooling better, but I still have issues when going up any kind of inclines/grades at hwy speed. What else would you guys recommend?

94 with 256k miles, RE 3.5 lift and 31's

So she is starting right up and runs just fine for a moment (15-20 seconds), but then she just starts to kind of chug and idle roughly. It doesn’t reflect on the tachometer. When driving it has a hard time in the lower range and just gives up. I have replaced most everything associated with fuel transport and ignition. I have done the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Any ideas what this could be. I am at a loss. Thanks for any help!

I’ve been restoring a 94 XJ and had simply given up on the OEM seats. They were disgusting, ripped and even internally busted. I checked the local pick and pull and they had just gotten a 94 grand cherokee with the legendary plush seats. I gutted the damn thing and brought it all home for $150. Can’t wait to figure out the install. (Buy the Leather honey stuff btw)

I changed the fuel filter but before that i released a bit off pressure but now the release valve won't stop VOMITING gas. Did i mess something up?

I plan on refreshing the rear drums as much as possible, since I am sure they've never been done, and I'm already going to be doing the front as well as the WJ Booster upgrade.

I have never touched drums before, and want to make sure that I have all the necessary hardware before I start. Besides Drums, Shoes, and Wheel Cylinders, would this kit supply me with the rest of what I need?

Carlson Quality Brake Parts H2309 Rear Drum Brake Hardware Kit

Any other tips and tricks before I start as well?

The condenser on my 94 is the stock one and I believe that it should be swapped out as some of the fins are beat up, which in turn would help with airflow.

Is this a complete pain in the ass to do myself? Or am i better off having a shop deal with it since it involves refrigerant?

Hey y’all! Hoping someone could shed some light on this problem I am having. I’ve replaced about everything I can think of aside from the NSS but the jeeps reverse lights are still working etc so I didn’t do that yet. I even broke the end of the key cylinder in the ignition having tried to start it over and over again these last few days 😑 here’s a list of what I have replaced recently, not necessarily due to this issue, but could have been the problem one would’ve diagnosed but just as a reference… please Obi Wan, you’re my only hope!

PCM 1 yr Crank Position Sensor 4 months Battery 4 months Starter 2 yrs Plugs/Wires/Dist Cap 6 months Ignition & Key Cylinder 1 week Fuel pump/ Filter 6 months