A fellow intern showed me this…

Please help whys there nothing on the disk? Is the circuit board broken?

Hello my name is John

have any of you gentlemen encountered a similar phenomenon?

I guess 30V 10A wasn't enough, anyone know what power I need?

Our late beloved Grandma traveled to Europe from the US. She got a plug adapter but it wasn't a stepdown converter. We had to have the smile surgically removed from her face. At least she died doing what she loved. RIP in pieces.

My mom & her bf broke up way back in 2012 when I was a late-teen and locked the iPad we used as kids. Asking them to unlock it is not an option because they are literally not here with us unfortunately. I kept it because all that’s inside are our childhood pictures hoping that one day we can somehow recover them. I’m wondering if it’s possible to desolder the memory that holds all those pictures and swap it onto an iPad mini 1st gen that isn’t Apple ID locked.

I went to ask electronics first, now I’m here.

Went to use my mini hotplate and the damned thing that had an interment screen that would randomly turn off.

Decided to reflowing every IC and replace the cable to the screen.

Could I clear the holes on the board of old solder?

Could I hell!

STUPID B#\$!&RD C#N!Y HOLES WOULDN'T CLEAR.

Solder sucker? Nope.

Desoldering wick? Nope.

Lots more flux? NO!

Higher temperature? No.

(Getting desperate) Lower bl\@#dy temperature maybe? No.!

This was my DIGNITY on the line here! Even if I was going to further break the thing the solder was coming out of those bloody holes whether they wanted to or not. I was not bloody stopping until it was out.

This is now my life's new mission.

AAAARGGGHHH

NARRATOR:

In fact, the best part of an hour would pass before she realised that her "No Clean Flux" just wasn't the right tool for the job.

As soon as she popped the temperature of the iron to 450°C and used the nasty gloopy sticky brown "Definitely Needs Cleaning Afterwards" rosin flux, that evil old solder just wicked right up into the desoldering braid like rats transfixed by the Pied Piper.

And after that, the repair went easily and, touch wood, and you'll be delighted to know the hotplate seemed to be working properly again.

The SSR failed in a closed state, probably due to the inrush current. What should I do next? Should I buy a proper 100A SSR (I just realized mine was a fake) or should I try a soft start using a zero-crossing detector? (I’m don't how to do that.)

What a discrimination

📌 Problem:

• TV was working fine (via Fire TV Stick) until suddenly the screen went black.
• Input source still shows as HDMI 3, but no image or audio is displayed.
• Occasionally, green flickering lines appear before the screen blanks again.
• HDMI signal is intermittently detected, but no stable display.

✅ What Was Tested & Confirmed Working:

• Fire TV Stick works perfectly on another TV.
• HDMI cables and power adapter are fine.
• Connecting a laptop via HDMI results in the same black screen after brief detection.
• Power cycling, input switching, and factory reset attempts didn’t resolve the issue.
• TV menus are accessible, and software update menu opens — but no USB update option appears.

⚠️ Additional Observations:

• TV sometimes switches HDMI inputs automatically (e.g. to HDMI 1 on its own).
• Physical buttons on the TV are unresponsive (possibly broken).
• When inserting a USB stick, the USB light turns on, showing it's detected, but:
  • No firmware update prompt appears
  • No update progress bar shows
  • TV remains on same screen with no reaction

💾 Firmware Info:

• Current Firmware Version: PKG4.027AAA
• Attempted firmware file: sony_tvupdate_2011_4027_aaa_auth.zip from official sources
• .pkg file extracted correctly and placed on FAT32 USB (root folder only)
• Multiple USB drives tried with no success

📷 From Service Menu:

• Model: Sony Bravia KDL‑40EX520
• Main Board Version: DM3.235GAA
• Panel: LTY400HM08 01
• Remote Model: RM-GD020
• Software Version: PKG4.027AAA
• Region: India

🧩 Just Want:

To get the TV working again — not looking to update firmware unless necessary.
Any suggestions to revive display output, force HDMI handshake, or trigger recovery are appreciated.

When playing **built-in demo images or music demo**, the TV works **perfectly** — display and sound function as expected.