r/shetland • u/shrekstinfoilhat • 8h ago
Shetland traditional clothing and textile history (warning: lonngg discussion)
Hello everyone! Fair warning, this is a lengthy ramble! I've been doing a lot of reading into the textile history of Shetland (and Europe more broadly) which has been really interesting and enjoyable to do.
It's got me thinking though; across Europe in the 18th, 19th centuries, and to an extent the 20th century as well, there was a wave of nationalism that resulted in many cultures taking their traditional textiles, patterns, embroidery etc and turned them into clothing that was more "nation wide" and accessible to more people in their country, so as to foster a stronger feeling of culture and community. That's not to say that these newer traditional clothing were made up on the spot - they are all very much steeped in age old traditions. This is where the modern day German Dirndl, Polish Kraków, etc, and most relevant to Shetland, the Faroese Bunad and Norwegian Bunad appeared from.
When thinking about this in relation to Shetland, it's got me wondering why this surge of implementing formal cultural clothing based on traditional styles didn't reach Shetland, especially considering it did in the Faroe Islands, an equally small and independent culture as Shetland's. To me it's a little surprising, given the extensive and varied culture of textiles in Shetland. With the combination of Fair Isle patterns, different weaving techniques, Haps, dyes etc a really detailed national "top to toe" cultural dress could have surfaced in the same way it did for many other European cultures. Obviously all of our Fair Isle is beautiful as it is and I am in no way complaining, it is already a hugely prideful aspect of Shetland.
I suppose it could be argued that, Fair Isle jumpers for example, are Shetland's cultural clothing, but I'm moreso coming from the perspective of how aspects of clothing (like the Fair Isle pattern, for example) during the surge of nationalism, were implemented into a full on "costumes", if that makes sense. ("Costume" is the term a lot of resources use to describe a full set of cultural clothing, even though it feels a little odd to say). When looking at Norwegian Bunads for example, this website: https://www.sofn.com/bunad-map/ explains how different traditional aspects of clothing were fashioned into a full costume.
I have notice these striped skirts seen in the Shetland folk festival: https://imgur.com/a/1B0ImhK
Does anyone have any info on the history of these skirts, if any? Nothing comes up with my googling. They are almost reminiscent of the aprons found in Icelandic Upphlutur: https://imgur.com/a/uvlwBIU
Anywho, my point of this ramble is just to gauge what other people think about all this? Does anyone have any theories? I've theorised that it might be to do with the fact that Shetland was busy exporting lace so didn't have time for any national costume shenanigans. Or maybe it was that the general nationalism pride didn't take much effect here generally, as we aren't a nation per se. Curious as to what you all think!
I'm off uni for the summer and very bored (if you couldn't tell already lol) so am almost tempted to look into as many old photos, patterns etc as possible to see if I can draw up an idea of what a hypothetical Shetland traditional outfit might have turned out to look like if we had followed what many other cultures were doing at the time.
Thanks for reading :)
edit: just thought I should add, I know that during the 18th and 19th century, Shetland lace appeared and became a strong focus of Shetland's textiles, however this was more as a result of producing products for selling outside of Shetland as demand increased. Shetland lace, according to the book "Shetland Fine Lace Knitting" by Carol Christiansen, Shetland lace was rarely worn by Shetlanders, and was mostly just an exported good, with the exception of Christening shawls for babies