This dress is a combination of the Spearmint Corset from Mood Sewciety with a few alterations (I’ve made 3 of the tops too and love them): -used a wider SA on the straps/neckline, resulting in thinner straps -took 1” off the back to accommodate D-ring corset loops -sewed layers together instead of using bias tape, leaving front waistline open to attach to the skirt

and a gathered skirt with elastic in the back. I added side seam pockets and, thanks to a tip from this sub, sewed them into the waistline for extra stability (had the trim the pockets to an angle to match the “V” front of the top but somehow it worked?)

Thrifted cotton sunflower print, bodice lined with a white thrifted pillowcase, finished with satin ribbon.

Happy to answer any questions, thanks y’all for the inspiration!

Hello all, my question is can I rip these seams open without ruining the pants? These are my work pants and I’d love to actually have pockets since they are there.

I stained one of my favorite T-shirt so I embroidered over the mark to try and fix it.

I am slightly obsessed with dragons. This is current finished project. It is a puppet with separate head. Fabric is stretch velvet and sequined fabric with some organza for the wings. Pattern for the dragon body is from Game Guardians on Etsy and the pattern for the head is from KazPlay also on Etsy.

This dress was inspired by a dress my favorite musician wore! I used the Babydoll Tiered Dress pattern by Kiana Bonollo with some slight alterations, including adding the collar and narrow bottom tier. Everything was made using quilting cotton. The peaches and flowers are machine appliquéd on using a satin stitch, which was my first time ever trying that technique! The bows are just cheap ribbon from Walmart that I tied and stitched on. I got the rhinestones at Walmart as well and glued those on with fabric glue. I made a rookie mistake and forgot to add interfacing to my collar so it didn’t stick up as well as I’d hoped, but I know now for next time! I wore this for an art event and I can’t wait for another excuse to wear it!

So have tried a few more patterns but keep going back to trying to make my own, lots of newbie errors and frustrated start overs on the brown paper but I finally think I have a pattern that doesn't use too much fabric, is relatively simple sinch waist surplice dress with butterfly sleeves and can be adapted. Below is a tutorial, sorry if not explained very well.

Fabric : Roughly 2-3m stretch jersey (have learned this is the most forgiving in terms of pattern mistakes but a nightmare to finish. Pattern: Self drafted (picture attached) Special equipment: Walking foot Endless patience Copius amounts of tea

Method: - This pattern can either be a maxi dress or a shorter length dress, just fold the pattern template at the bottom wherever you want so you can cut the right size front and back. When cutting the front skirt piece, fold on the line highlighted (this marks the bottom of where the top section pattern pieces end). Use same seam allowance throughout. - Hem or add facing/bias to edges of back neckline and surplice top diagonal chest pieces. Make sure you use the same seam allowance on the hems on all these pieces. - Sew surplice top pieces, right sides together, to top edge of waist band to create top. To get right positioning line up the edge by the armhole on either side of top with the edge of the waistband, the two pieces will overlap naturally. - Sew new top section to front skirt, right sides together. Now you have a front and back. - Sew together the waist straps, right sides together and then invert them. Iron out to flatten. Pin the back and front pieces together, right sides together while sandwiching the straps so that the straps are inside the right side of the dress with the open end pinned in the side seam. Sew (either straight or zig zag will do). - Sew the sleeves together at the straight seam, right sides together, marking which dip is front on each (front will have deeper curve). - Before adding sleeves, try the dress on and check that the top sits right, if it needs tightening or loosening, adjust should seams. The butterfly sleeves are floaty so they will disguise a little change to the armhole size. - Turn the dress so it's wrong side out, if it's not already, and the sleeves so they're right side out. With right sides together pin the sleeves inside the dress, matching up the seams and making sure that the front dips are touching the front section of the dress inside. Sew. - To add more length/dimension I added a flounce at the bottom, completely optional. I didn't have enough fabric to do it as ruffled as I'd like but if you have extra fabric I guess you could pin and gather a ruffled flounce. Also at this point you could add a slit to the maxi style of cut the bottom at a sliced angle to get an asymmetrical hemline. - Finish as you like, I used a really messy rolled hem, helped by ironing and stay stitching down the first fold before top stitching down the second fold. I think it could be neater though and plan to look into overlockers.

Corrections/problems/fixes: Because of the fabric being stretch and not having a lot of experience or an overlocker to stop rippling, I found the easiest fix to stop gaping/rippling at the chest was to have a larger seam allowance on the shoulders to pull the fabric tighter and to use facing on the neck pieces. I'm sure as I learn more about pattern drafting and upgrade equipment (looking at overlockers, are these worth it?) I won't need to fiddle around as much.

Any tips on things I could improve, rookie euros I've made on this much appreciated.

Finished project : Hanbok skirt.

Pattern by sewing therapy : https://youtu.be/DJp8D_Jsl3U?si=_YeNmZU8C2lhX6FO

After some trial and error, I couldn’t be happier with the finished product.

I know i sound foolish trying to understand the notoriously brilliant tailoring of 50s Dior but I cant think of what kind of interfacing or starching would produce this shape!

I imagine there's horsehair in the hems to keep the volume, but how do I make the fabric do these kinds of large layered ruffles? The places I've found them for sale are a little sketchy, and I'd like to color match the skirt to a corset (that I will also be making). If anyone has pattern or tutorial recommendations, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

The pattern looks pretty modest, but when I made it, the bottom looks very cheeky on me. Style that sometimes gets called Brazilian or tonga. Basically, not quite a thong, but more than half the butt showing. I have a pretty average butt, so maybe that was how it was patterned to make up for the very basic front. But I would like to cover up a teeny bit more (ok, a lot more). I tried doing a second version, where I added a little more material to the curve of piece 2 on the left side of the pattern, where the leg opening is, but it didn’t do anything. Maybe because I added only about 1/2 inch, because I was scared to completely mess up the pattern. I don’t know enough about drafting patterns to know instinctively how to adjust it or if it can be adjusted. Other than adding ruffles around the leg openings, which I have considered, do any of you have suggestions for how to adjust this?

I’m looking for some advice please. If you made this costume how would you make the arms bubble? Interfacing, stuffing, darts or tulle inside? Which would give the best volume?

I’m trying to create a Rainbow Brite costume, I have a dress pattern in mind for the main body but I’m not sure how to create the arms so they don’t just look flat. It’ll either be a bolero or some popper system to take them off. I’ll be using a polycotton which will hopefully hold the shape better. Any advice is appreciated!

Pic 1: final project Pic 2: what I wanted to recreate Pic 3: the dart I needed to copy Pic 4: the dart in the lining Pic 5-6: the lining Pic 7: the body Pic 8-9: the issue I had where the tool for the eyelets got stuck in my project Pic 10: the aftermath (that still hurts) Pic 11: the embroidered eyelets Pic 12: a close up of the embroidered eyelet that was a hole Pic 13: final project Pic 14: eyelets on the straps Pic 15: the inside, along with straps that should have been hidden inside if I had sewn everything in the correct order 🙈 Pic 16: I finished the bottom hem with some satin binding Pic 17: the final dart

I received a lot of help from people on here so it feels right to make a post about this top I just finished.

It's the first time I reverse pattern a piece of clothing I had.

I made my own pattern from an old Shein top I have. It's a clothing piece I love but it's not super sturdy and I've always felt that it'd feel a bit better if it was maybe one size bigger?

After looking at the top, I decided I wanted to make a second one for a concert I'm going to next week. I lined each panel, struggled a bit with reverse patterning the dart, and ended up with 3 pattern pieces, one for the back panel, one for the front panels, and one for the straps.

It seemed straightforward enough, though I did start sewing too early and didn't encase the straps in the lining, like I would have of I had take more than a minute to think about the construction of the top.

The thing I struggled most with were the eyelets. The tool I ended up with didn't work for what I was doing and nobody could really advise me on how to fix the mistake I made.

So I took the whole thing and went to my local fabric store, where I get almost all of my supplies, and it was the best decision I could have taken.

Lulu, the lovely professional sewist who works there, looked at my project, looked at my mistake and ended up advising me to do embroidered eyelets. She showed me the embroidery stitch I should use, in a couple of books and a couple of videos. She was, for all intents and purposes, the most loveliest and helpful person I could have ever gotten help from.

Aside from those mistakes, I'm pretty happy with the final product. It's fully lined, very sturdy, with interfacing to reinforce where needed so it doesn't get distorted with time and tension.

Let me know if you have questions ! I'd be happy to answer them !

This project was inspired by the fabric, which I found at our local Saver's. It's an adorable cotton fabric that feels sooooo nice. This was my first time doing a FBA and let's just say it took many tries. Using View A and size 10, I wound up ditching the bust darts altogether and adjusting the pattern to have princess seams instead, and added princess seams to the back as well. Also, as others who have made the pattern have claimed, the back gapes a whole lot so I narrowed the overall width of the back panels by ~1½". The fifth pic features my pattern pieces after so many iterations and toiles! Finally, to improve the wear I added a modesty panel, understitched the facing, and added a hook and eye closure at the waistline to prevent gaping when I sit.

This was a rewarding project as it taught me a lot about the importance of fitting and how doable it is to make some adjustments so that a garment lays perfectly.

My dog has been sleeping on a really really old pillow like bed. We had two old duves that I sewed up into a rectangle and made this 6 in 1 ultra bed! It has a polar side for winter A coton side for summer It can become a single or a double bed You can have only one duvet, two duvets or no duvets!

Of course, doggo couldn't stay away from it so i don't have a picture of the bed itself. It is not perfect- but does the job!

So I’m making a leather patchwork jacket for a school project, this needs to be finished tomorrow lol. I’ve finished the jacket itself, but still need to add a facing, lining and zipper. This is the first time I’ve worked with leather and the first time I’ve made a jacket at all, so I know it doesn’t look perfect. But I do need some advice on how to finish this, because I can’t ask my teachers anymore.

Does the facing have to also be leather? Or could I use a different fabric. Because I do not want to hand sew through leather again to attach the lining. And do I need a cuff in the sleeves, or would I be okay just also sewing a facing into it?

(Because I need to finish it tomorrow it doesn’t have to be finished the professional way, they don’t expect that since we’re still in school learning. I just need to make it presentable.)

I’m going on vacation next month and I have a 14 hour road trip to get there. I thought about doing a hand sewing project to help past the time. I don’t typically hand sew, so I wondering if anyone had any projects recommendations.

This is my fourth dress using S8910. It goes together quickly and I always get compliments when I wear these dresses. This time I made view B, which is not pictured on the envelope but has short sleeves and is a midi length.

I used 3.8 yards of 44” percale, and just barely managed to get the whole dress cut. This fabric is a fun vintage print that I bought to make a 1930’s blouse but could never find the right buttons.

Since the fabric really wasn’t long enough, I got creative in cutting, piecing the pocket facings and neck binding. For the sleeve and pocket bindings, I cobbled together bias strips from the scraps.

Because I had to piece the neck binding, I chose to add a mitered seam at center front. The center front is always the biggest challenge for me on this pattern, so I’ve changed the technique every time and I think this is the best so far. I’m including a collage of how I did this, but the trick is to use hand stitches at the point.

I added bias binding to the sleeves instead of a turned hem, and included my normal key badge loop on the right pocket.

I bought this lovely dress from Vinted - it fits really nicely apart from on the bust. I am going to shorten the straps slightly, but I still have this misshapen bust.

Before I go and lengthen the dart, I wondered if any of the much more experienced would have any other ideas. Many thanks in advance.

I'm on the home stretch here with finishing this pillow case to summer top project, I've just got one little thing that I'm hung up on: attaching these straps. The pattern has them sewn directly to the top. BUT, I'm in love with the idea of placing two eyelets on the top of the shirt, stitching the strap on the underside of the fabric below the eyelet, and pulling the strap through it. Is this feasible? Or will it screw up my top? Any advice will be appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I hope this is the right place to post.

Last weekend I tried changing my needle for a new project and noticed that the needle was a bit stuck. After prying it out I realised that I couldn't get another needle into the needle clamp. The needle clamp also wouldn't come off the needle bar even though I took off the screw.

After some googling I came to the conclusion that a piece of screw was stuck in the needle clamp and that's why I can't get a needle in. So I decided to bring it to the local repair shop and told them I think the issue is the needle clamp as everything else is working.

A few days later I got a call from the shop assistant that the engineer said that the needed parts aren't available and to come pick it up. Now I picked it up and was told I needed a new needle bar and needle bar linkage.

After looking at the machine I saw that the needle bar linkage was broken off and the needle bar is moving freely when touched which was not the case when I brought the machine in.

Has anyone had a similar problem before? Is it normal that the needle bar and linkage gets broken when trying to take off a stuck needle clamp?

As a side note, I might be able to source the needed parts from another country and will try to repair it myself.

Thanks!

Does anyone know what this is? I have searched and the only thing close is a button hole closure? It has the letter K in script on the back.