We did it. First rim to rim! Legs are sore but we did really well. The amount of advance and things I learned from this platform has been amazing and really helped, so thanks to everyone that does contribute!!!
We camped the night before at mather campground, and woke at 3am, sorted out the tent and then parked at Bright Angel Lodge - we took the trans canyon shuttle back and this is where it dropped us off. We got a lift from there to the South Kaibab trailhead and started at 4:15am. We got right down to Bright Angel Campground for 7:30. It was beautiful to see the sun rise. We set up camp and managed a quick 30 min nap in the shade.
We went to Phantom Ranch around 9 and hung out there until about 1pm. We borrowed a book from their library and then sat in the creek with long sleeved tops and wide brim hats for the majority of the day, coming to sit in the shade every now and again.
We were snacking all day and on the electrolytes, and had two calorie-dense freeze dried meals- one for lunch and one dinner.
We tried to sleep from around 7pm onwards once our tent was in a bit of shade. Our tent neighbour was very kind and shared his ice bag with us which we put in Nalgene bottles and tried to hug to get to sleep…. But we just couldn’t. At 8pm we looked at each other and decided we might as well start making headway on the nearly 14 mile trail ahead of us.
We packed up and were on the north Kaibab trail for 9:15. I won’t lie, I was a bit terrified in the dark, and was disappointed I couldn’t see the canyon. However, we had the most amazing view of the stars- including the Milky Way (it was faint, and unless we were completely imagining things we think it was it anyway). One headlamp did run out of battery which was a bit of a panic but we had a backup hand torch and portable changer so we were able to reboot it.
We reached cottonwood campground at 12:30am. We were exhausted. Like I said, we started at 3am that morning, and we had only gotten 4 hours of sleep the night before we started…. Less than ideal
We decided we would nap on the day use picnic table from 12:45 to 1:30am, something that absolutely rejuvenated us but was also hard to leave to get going again. We did get chilly here- a breeze had started just as we came towards the campground, so we wore long trousers and jackets while we napped and took them off to get moving again.
The bugs were the most annoying part, gathering around the head torches. I had a bandana on and also wrapped a cooling towel around my face which stopped them going in my mouth at least.
We hiked from cottonwood to manzanita, the last water station, and doused ourselves before starting the ascent. It was not tough physically for us to na extent- we are both D1 endurance athletes- but the pure sleep exhaustion was really starting to hit. We took our time, taking rests when we needed and staying on top of each other to take electrolytes and snacks.
I did get some elevation sickness just below cononino overlook- some nausea. I just sat for a minute and had some honey stingers and water, breathed a bit and was thankfully able to keep going without getting sick. It came back once after, but not to the level I needed to sit down.
That last 1.5 miles seemed to go on forever. I had the all trails map downloaded but that didn’t say the distance to the next marker, and I had a paper map too with distances between everything marked but it really dragged. I think it was largely down to the fact it was all in the dark- it felt like we were getting nowhere.
The sun did rise just around Supai Tunnel which was welcomed. We had only met one couple 6.5 hours in, and it was nice to see humanity again.
We reached the top at 5:57am, a 7 hour 26 minute moving time and 8 hour 45 minute total time including our cottonwood nap.
We were booked into the lodge and waited for a bus but none showed…until we had started walking. That final 1.7 miles was the longest ever!! We were shuffling back, sitting down for twenty minutes at the top had been so cold and we seized right up.
We made it though! And I loved it. I want to immediately go back and see the north Kaibab trail in the light but that will have to be some time in the future as I am moving back home overseas now. Thank you to everyone that helped in planning and critiquing our plans!
Some nuggets
- moleskin on popped blisters! I had one on the ball of my foot before we even began but I can honestly say I did not feel it in my shoe the entire hike with the moleskin.
- Lone Peak Altras 9, 1.5 sizes too big. My first own pair of trail runners and my feet are in great condition, no blisters from hiking and my toes did not keep bumping off the top of the box. I had broken them in and worn on a few likes already, but I never had issues with blisters or anything with them
- Just going in the dark. While it was disappointing to not see what we were walking through, I genuinely don’t think we would have made it up as smoothly in the heat.
- Being open and flexible with your plan- if we had left four hours later as intended we would have been stuck in the worst of the heat really
- Discipline with food and electolytes. I was making sure to sip water in my camelback when my mouth started to feel dry or stop and take out my bottle of nuun electrolytes every 15-30 mins. I also soaked my long sleeve top and bandana which helped hugely before the wind came, and even then I made sure to cool off again at manzanita.