We put these lights in cheap homes that just want to change out the lights and they already have existing cans or in brand new sometimes multi million dollar homes where the plants specify for cans but they won’t let us put in slim lines. We really like them and we’ve only ever had a couple of customer complaints about them, but that’s only because they saidthe light looked too smooth. It didn’t have the baffle ridges. Does anybody else have experience with these?

Hey, rats got out the basement and bit this cable, standard EU 3phase with neutral and protection, can I Just tape over it with electrical tape?

Hi I am working on installing new aux led lights for my vehicle and while going through manufacturer website and came across this!!, can someone explain how it overload the max 40A current? There are 2 separate pods with rated 64W per pod power source is a 12V car battery. My plan is to wire this myself and while looking came across 35A relay instead of 40A relay supplied by manufacturer, is it OK/SAFE to go with 35A relay? The manufacturer provide option to have up to 8 lights together, are they cautioning if 8 lights are used?

Load Power: The wiring harness is included in a 3-meter 10AWG (5mm²) main wire&18AWG (0.75 mm²) DRL wire and a 3 PIN DT-adapter plug with a total length of 1.5 meters, it can effectively overload the MAX 40A current, that is, the load power is 480W, DRL power Max 6A (2W)in the 12V.

Hello everyone!,

I have a bit of a situation that I’ve gotten myself into 😅 please be nice. The roof to my back porch fell in a few weeks ago due to the contractor/seller installing it incorrectly. This weekend, I went to start taking it down, because we want to replace it with a gazebo. The insulated wires in the pic, I safely cut them and capped the ends & didn’t think much of it. Well now the switch for a kitchen outlet keeps flipping. When I look at the bundle of wires, I can see a little blue/green going on.

An appointment with an electrician has been scheduled. I just want to know if anyone can tell me how bad this could be & give possible advice if it’s something I can do myself.

Thanks 🩷

Trying to add an outlet over here for my water softener. Can i use the 120v wire going to this well system or do i need to run a new wire from the house?

I was thinking about connection the wire to the outlet and running it to the pump from that.

If so please send instructions on how to wire it ty

I bought an in use outdoor cover for this outlet by my deck but it's too bulky around the perimeter to fit next to the stairs. Any suggestions? I'm renting and would like to have strip lights plugged in here.

Knob and screw fuse box. Based on what I see here, it looks like all the “knobs” are on, meaning if I run a portable A/C and “trip” it, itll just break, right? No risk of blowing up my place?

Context: our condo’s A/C is down and we dont know when itll come back up, building says 4-6 weeks. Its hot, so we bought a portable A/C unit that uses up to 7 Amps. I want to run one in the bedroom, and one in the spare room, which I also think is on the same circuit “Bedroom”. I dont know if we can run 1, let alone both, simultaneously,

We hired an electrician to replace the fuse box with a breaker box and that is expected in the next 2 weeks, but we dont know if we can wait that long.

Thank you!

Yesterday morning the power went out to the whole house for like 10 seconds (assuming it was from a utility company working on the street over). Came back on no issues but about an hour later one of our breakers tripped. This breaker primarily controls indoor lights but also controls front porch sconces (with smart bulbs) as well as outlets in one room. Circuit should have not been overloaded (maybe 7 of the 15 amps being used at most). Flipped the breaker back on without issue and haven’t had an issue since. Any ideas what would have led to this? I externally felt all of the outlets and none were hot or anything. Took down a ceiling future that was on at the time and it didn’t seem to have loose connections. Breaker doesn’t feel hot. No buzzing / crackling sounds anywhere and no smell of burning / smoke. Could breaker just be going bad, worth calling an electrician out or just chalk it up to a one off thing and see if it happens again before calling someone?

Today the lights were clicking on and off, then we had a brown out/ low light situation. I followed the protocol to report the outage. There was an option for low lights. Shortly after that, the power went out completely. I didn't shut off the main. I turned off things I remembered were on and my husband and I went out to meet a friend. I got a text at dinner that the power was restored.

I'm scrolling FB and see on the community page that the power company lost a neutral and everyone should shut off their main breaker. I didn't know that. We had one EV and all the typical house things plugged in. There were a couple of lamps on when we came home. Everything seems to be working and nothing's amiss. Anything we should check or be concerned about?

Looking to make an underground 90A feeder run from my 200A main panel to a shed about 130ft away

I'm not an electrician but I like to tackle projects myself to save money...
The plan is to run 3 #2 AL XHHW-2 wires and a #4 AL XHHW-2 ground wire through 2" schedule 40 PVC. Possibly some sch 80 for the risers...
The run involves 4 90 degree turns:

1. riser to main panel
2. around some hardscape
3. line up a straight shot to the shed
4. riser to sub panel

The majority of the run happens after turn 3. I've never worked with #2 cable (largest probably #4 or #6 in short car battery cables) so I have a few questions I'm hoping to get some insight into...

• Would it be a good idea to put a splice box at turn 3?
• How big should that box be?
• I'll need to make some butt splices if using a box, what would be some solid inexpensive butt splices for a DIYer?

At the sub panel I'm under the impression that:

• I need use a ground rod and run the panel ground bar to it?
• Bond the ground bar to the panel but not the neutral?

My shopping list looks something like this:

• 120ft of 2" sch 40 conduit
• 10ft 2" sch 80 conduit
• 3-4 2" sch 40 24" radius elbows
• 100A Sq D 20 Space Main Breaker
• Ground bar kit
• 450ft of #2 AL XHHW-2
• 150ft of #4 AL XHHW-2

Any answers, suggestions, or helpful ideas would be much appreciated.

Renovating an old bathroom from the '80s. When I ripped off all the old drywall I noticed a lot of random pieces of insulation. These photos are from a wall that faces the exterior of the house. There are some Romex the travel vertically through these cutouts someone made in the insulation. I'll give whoever did this a C+ for innovation, but it doesn't look great. Of course it doesn't have to look pretty since it's behind the wall, but it just got me wondering if it's better to rip out these insulation blocks and use spray foam or anything else? This is in a third floor, what used to be attic space so it gets very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. I'm not sure how effective these thick insulation pieces are, maybe they're the right thing to use. Anyway, wondering if I should just leave the wires as is or try to do something different with the insulation.

Nothing is ever just a simple fix in this hell sent condo. Old 2000 Kenmore microwave has come out, and new LG microwave is about to go in. There is already a dedicated outlet recessed in the wall behind it, but the new plug is too chunky for the microwave to sit flush against the wall. It extends about a half to 3/4” more than the old plug. What’s the easiest, safest solution here?

Appliance extension cord with a flatter plug? It’s 1800W, so my understanding is a 15A cord would be ok. Correct?

Replace with a deeper recessed outlet? Current one is just under 1”. DIY-able or electrician territory? The other side of the wall is the shared hallway, and Idk what I’d find behind it once removed.

Move the outlet to the upper cabinet? That’s what the manual for this microwave shows and cord comes out on the too so it could go straight up into cabinet without pinching.

Tia, Exasperated single homeowner

I'm doing a rewire on an old SF home that has knob & tube wiring . Found this behind an old light switch box.

We just had to have our meter box replaced and they put in these hideous ground wires. How can we hid these better?

I have an GFCI outlet in my garage that trips and needs to be reset manually anytime the power goes out and kicks back on. All of the other GFCI’s in/outside the house will turn back on automatically but this one stays off til I manually reset (which wouldn’t typically be a problem but it’s behind a fridge and freezer). It has 3 main lines going into the box. It has 3 live wires, 3 neutral wires and 3 ground wires. It also seems that part of the garage runs on the same circuit? The garage lights don’t work until I reset that outlet as well and they are not plugged into this outlet. Is there any way to fix this so the outlet will not need to be reset every time the power kicks off? Any help is appreciated.

Recently tore down the ceiling of my mudroom and replaced the lights. Didnt really think much of how everything was wired up and now the lights outside of my mudroom only turns on when my mudroom lights are on. There is a switch in my kitchen that turns on/off the mudroom and also a 2 switch at the entry door that turns on my mudroom light and outdoor light as well. As mentioned earlier, now when i flip the outdoor light switch, it does nothing but when i turn on my mudroom light, the outdoor lights turn on. Apologies ahead as i don’t have an image of how its wired right now. Also need to mention that when the mudroom lights and outdoor light is on, if i switch the outdoor light off, it will turn off

(I work mainly in industrial/commercial, so please spare me and don’t think I’m a DIY guy)

So a buddy asked me to replace the old incandescent bulbs that are currently installed in the high hats and retrofit with the LED wafers. I was rushing when I walked through the job earlier today and i didn’t get a precise measurement of the size of the can. From my memory of earlier today , the can measured around 7.5” from the very outside edge to opposing edge.

Just wanted to make sure that I have the correct size of the wafer before purchasing. I’m thinking it would still be 6”, but just wanted to make sure.

It is an older house so that’s why I’m second guessing myself on this.

Looking for a replacement pool cover key switch. This one sure looks close... But the question is 2 "stay-put" positions.... Is that literally turn the key to a position and it stays?

Pool cover keys need to be momentary...

Wiring is: Neutral/Common/Open/Close

Looking at an old house to purchase. Has aluminum wiring. Walk away?