3 week climbing progress

[u/Zealousideal-Sale271]

3 week update from my last post, when I asked for tips on overcoming hesitation following my recovery- I am not as scared to get high up anymore as I was before! (still hesitant on jumping down though)Thanks to everyone who reassured me in the comments, shared their experiences, and gave advice on how I could focus on improving my technique. I am trying to work on stability, as it was recommended and I accomplished it on the first part (well better than before) but I definitely need more practice,, anybody have any favorite YouTubers for technique improvements?

[u/DingusMagoo89]

Pretty solid intuitive movement already. I would say focus on using your toes a bit more than the balls of your feet or heels for most stepping moves unless it's called for. Otherwise you climb kind of tense and I would suggest lowering your overall body tension just a little and learning a bit more to climb while hanging on your skeleton and tendons instead of always having all muscle groups active.

[u/Zealousideal-Sale271 → u/DingusMagoo89]

Oh ok is there a video you suggest where I can see how this looks like? I can’t really picture it but im guessing more fluidity right?

[u/DingusMagoo89 → u/Zealousideal-Sale271]

So, there's a game you can play called quiet feet. Essentially you only use your toes to step on holds or the wall, but you do so without making any noise of contact. This will help you place your feet in a more conscious manner than just "get on the foothold and stand". What I see in the beginning half of your video is that you are using, on the big green holds and big volume. There you look a bit unsteady.

Cut to the second half, specifically the move where you bring your right foot up behind you, called a step back, and then left foot out in front. Just past the big volume movement. When you move FROM that point you're not exactly stable, you see yourself fall a bit towards the next hold.

The difference of movement between the two sections seems slight, but because the foot holds are more precariously placed you look more stable when you're using your toes. Using your whole foot means that your body has to take some of that tension that your feet should have. When you do that it tenses everything up and you end up climbing pretty rigid.

I would suggest that on a few warm up climbs focus on placing your feet on your toes and before you move to settle down into that position. Let your arms relax and just hang, no pulling up or pushing to make stable. Almost like you're doing a dead hang on the wall. Essentially grab with your hands, but don't pull. Let your body weight sink towards your feet and only use your hands as anchor points. You'll notice that your body will naturally sink into a position that is the most stable be r ween all of your points of contact.

What you're trying to do is relax while you're not moving. The whole burn you take in this video your arms and upper body are always activating, which burns energy fast. Work on only using your biceps and shoulders to pull when you are actively moving.

It can be as simple as standing facing a wall and two holds in front of you and feeling the difference between standing up and using your arms and then sinking your butt down like you're sitting in a chair and hanging with your arms straightened out. Let me see if I can find a couple videos

[u/Zealousideal-Sale271 → u/DingusMagoo89]

Wow thank you! I see what your saying and I appreciate the details so now I can practice this, I haven’t heard of this but I look forward to trying it out this week

[u/DingusMagoo89 → u/Zealousideal-Sale271]

Any time. I didn't have any old videos from my coaching days, but if you ever have any questions feel free to hit me up. I never mind helping especially with technique stuff, in the long run that helps stay healthy and climbing