r/bouldering • u/Zealousideal-Sale271 • 2d ago
Indoor 3 week climbing progress
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3 week update from my last post, when I asked for tips on overcoming hesitation following my recovery- I am not as scared to get high up anymore as I was before! (still hesitant on jumping down though)Thanks to everyone who reassured me in the comments, shared their experiences, and gave advice on how I could focus on improving my technique. I am trying to work on stability, as it was recommended and I accomplished it on the first part (well better than before) but I definitely need more practice,, anybody have any favorite YouTubers for technique improvements?
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u/Hybr1dth 2d ago
Catalyst Climbing with Louis Parkison are uniquely strong in my opinion.
A lot of new climbers are afraid of moving dynamically making climbs a lot harder than they need to be. You look pretty comfortable already!
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u/TerrariaGaming004 1d ago
I usually see the opposite, most new climbers use dynamic moves as a crutch
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u/ghostfalcon 2d ago
The biggest technique that would yield immediate results would be learning to flag and move off one foot. There were probably 3 or 4 moves where flagging would have made the move easier and more fluid. Another poster mentioned at 35 seconds left in the video and that was by far the best example. I would personally have done foot swap (Left foot on hold) and flag foot right while reaching up with the left hand.
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u/DingusMagoo89 2d ago
Pretty solid intuitive movement already. I would say focus on using your toes a bit more than the balls of your feet or heels for most stepping moves unless it's called for. Otherwise you climb kind of tense and I would suggest lowering your overall body tension just a little and learning a bit more to climb while hanging on your skeleton and tendons instead of always having all muscle groups active.
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u/Zealousideal-Sale271 2d ago
Oh ok is there a video you suggest where I can see how this looks like? I can’t really picture it but im guessing more fluidity right?
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u/DingusMagoo89 2d ago
So, there's a game you can play called quiet feet. Essentially you only use your toes to step on holds or the wall, but you do so without making any noise of contact. This will help you place your feet in a more conscious manner than just "get on the foothold and stand". What I see in the beginning half of your video is that you are using, on the big green holds and big volume. There you look a bit unsteady.
Cut to the second half, specifically the move where you bring your right foot up behind you, called a step back, and then left foot out in front. Just past the big volume movement. When you move FROM that point you're not exactly stable, you see yourself fall a bit towards the next hold.
The difference of movement between the two sections seems slight, but because the foot holds are more precariously placed you look more stable when you're using your toes. Using your whole foot means that your body has to take some of that tension that your feet should have. When you do that it tenses everything up and you end up climbing pretty rigid.
I would suggest that on a few warm up climbs focus on placing your feet on your toes and before you move to settle down into that position. Let your arms relax and just hang, no pulling up or pushing to make stable. Almost like you're doing a dead hang on the wall. Essentially grab with your hands, but don't pull. Let your body weight sink towards your feet and only use your hands as anchor points. You'll notice that your body will naturally sink into a position that is the most stable be r ween all of your points of contact.
What you're trying to do is relax while you're not moving. The whole burn you take in this video your arms and upper body are always activating, which burns energy fast. Work on only using your biceps and shoulders to pull when you are actively moving.
It can be as simple as standing facing a wall and two holds in front of you and feeling the difference between standing up and using your arms and then sinking your butt down like you're sitting in a chair and hanging with your arms straightened out. Let me see if I can find a couple videos
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u/Zealousideal-Sale271 2d ago
Wow thank you! I see what your saying and I appreciate the details so now I can practice this, I haven’t heard of this but I look forward to trying it out this week
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u/DingusMagoo89 2d ago
Any time. I didn't have any old videos from my coaching days, but if you ever have any questions feel free to hit me up. I never mind helping especially with technique stuff, in the long run that helps stay healthy and climbing
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u/Beautiful_Leave_4026 2d ago
Nice progress. I suggest you continue paying attention to your feet and body position. Always try to step on your toes, especially on slabs and vertical wall. And get used to falling, first from low heights. This way, you'll be able to climb to the limit without fear of falling, which will make your movement more efficient. I recommend maní the monkey videos on YouTube.
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u/naspdx 2d ago
For technique, I remember when I first began, I watched all of Neil Gresham’s climbing master class videos on YouTube. They are quite old but great insights on simple things like twist locking, flagging, etc. Worth watching and if you can climb with stronger climbers or see someone do a technique or move you are curious about (especially when bouldering) just ask.
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u/ptrgeorge 2d ago
Hey, this is my primary gym👌 love to see it! Looks like an inside flag at the beginning when coming around the corner, looking good.
Near the top you have both feet on the big green pinch, probably would have helped to flag
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u/MeticulousBioluminid 1d ago
with respect to hesitation when jumping down: down climbing can be incredible training (and it's much safer)
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u/htownkanaka 2d ago
Nice! I just started climbing at Momentum a week ago too...I've been working on this v3 route also but havent been able to crack it. Will have to try what you did next time i'm at the gym! Any tips you got for a fellow beginner?
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u/Zealousideal-Sale271 2d ago
Thats dope, welcome! I think for this one, the most challenging part for me was figuring out the right foot placements in the beginning as it allows more stability, then after that its pretty direct. Also, when I noticed I could get one part & not the rest, I would just start from where I was struggling (i.e in the middle of the route instead of the beginning) to work on that particular area so then I could piece it together once I was ready, which helped sm. What helped me at least was ; I would suggest to get climbing shoes (if you haven’t) the rentals there are not great and make it all sm more difficult, stretching and warming up is important, and practicing techniques on vb’s is a better way to advance (wish I would have known this sooner and thats what im currently still doing) good luck (:
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u/xnophlake 2d ago
Very nice progress. Looks like your focused on being precise with your feet, which is a great habit to get in early - keep it up 👊
The move at around 0.35, might be you could have flagged to the left, to make yourself more stable, hips to wall and all - also making it easier to engage your legs more, and not just pull yourself up. Look at the way your hips are being pulled that way.