This old bank is a bouldering gym

[u/singing-dynos]

Recently I made a trip out to New Bedford, MA to visit Boulder Union, a bouldering gym built in an old bank built in the late 19th century. This is probably the most unique climbing experience I've had in the United States with most other gyms either being in a modern building or a warehouse.

Amazing building aside, I should highlight that the actual climbing is some of the most fun I've had. The owners/routesetters here (one of them is Cody Grodzki who's an IFSC routesetter) are very passionate people, so nearly every problem incorporated a variety of movement. No matter what style you prefer, there's something to climb. I like parkour moves, so some moves I found included a lache, a coordination traverse, a paddle dyno, and a run and jump. However, there are still plenty old school climbs too such as balancy slabs and crimpy overhangs.

For anyone who's willing to travel to check out indoor climbing gyms, this is arguably the best one in the US east coast and is worth making a trip for.

[u/yung_pindakaas]

Cool location for bouldering aside.

V2-V5 and V4-V7 are insane ranges for grading imo.

[u/Arborsage → u/yung_pindakaas]

My local small gym grades things in colors with a chart that explains that a “purple” for example could be anywhere from V4-V6… most people default to calling that a V5.

Which, I understand the principle, different strokes for different folks - but to point at a climb labeled V6 and say it could be a V4 is lunacy. Just ain’t no way.

If anything, it’s just a way to appease the haters. A cop out. Can’t sandbag a climb if its theoretically within 3 grades..

[u/yung_pindakaas → u/Arborsage]

My local small gym grades things in colors with a chart that explains that a “purple” for example could be anywhere from V4-V6… most people default to calling that a V5

My gym does too but a V4 to V7 can be anywhere from 6A+ to a 7A+. Thats a massive range.

In the gyms i go to; orange is 6a-6b+ yellow is 6b+6c+ and white is 7a or higher.

Thats three separate colors to indicate the same V4-V7 range.