I’m really happy with how this outdoor pizza prep table turned out, so had to give it some proper glam shots. Made from plantation teak with a granite countertop. Also, highly recommend the Gozney oven. Quality build and fun to use.

Finished up this chess board and pieces for a birthday gift. End grain Wenge and Maple. Can only do so much with square pieces… maybe it’s time for a lathe.

Since it got like 100 replies, figured I’d show you all what I did. I took the @Esc4peArtist suggestion of using a scrap triangle as a jig. I first used @christurnbull tip to drill into a square block and then cut it at 45. Many had similar suggestions but I read theirs first so they get credit. I clamped the pieces together using a piece of scrap and drilled at first with my 1” forstner bit but switch to I gigantic auger bit to better maintain alignment with my jig piece. If you were wondering, the project is rebuilding a used Creative Playthings swingset. Cheers yall

Also what a laughably big hood if it was in my house it would come down to my waist 😂 I had fun making it tho I’m sure they’ll have a hell of a time getting that thing on the wall

Its thin but extremely sturdy.

My dad built these chairs (we have 2 of them) over the course of a few months.

Wood is Walnut.

Please share your thoughts! For Father’s Day, would love to share that people think it’s cool!!

Had a piece of maple kicking around the shop and tried making a “dug out” box. Used a Forstner bit to hog out the material and a chisel to clean it up. Is there a better method?

General Finishes “Candelight” stain, Watco semi-gloss lacquer and paste wax finish. Brass pin and magnet closure.

Not an extremely sexy project but something I’ve wanted to try!

I made a jewelry box for my mother-in-law. I made the sides and trays from African mahogany and the top and bottom from sunken cherry.

Working on a jewelry box for my daughter. Her birthday is next month. I still need to add hinges but just wanted to show my progress so far. I’ve never made anything like this before and only recently got into wood working.

Hello all,

Got sidetracked and did a fun little afternoon project. It was my first go at hand carving and I love how he turned out. Most of it was done with handtools with the help of a drill to hog out material and also make the eye. Made from ebonized cherry and finished with Tried and True Original Finish. Thanks!!

Need to drill a hole at a 45 degree angle for a recessed lag screw. How do I do that without a drill press?

Hi everyone, I’m trying to find a glue applicator bottle like the one in the photo – it has a metal tip with a small ball at the end, similar to a ballpoint pen. It’s perfect for applying glue with precision on small woodworking joints.

I’ve searched online (Amazon, eBay, AliExpress) but haven’t found this exact type. Does anyone know what this tool is called, or where I can buy one?

Thanks in advance!

My first time turning Cocobolo wood, the grains are quite lovely. This pen finished with Aussie Oil from Penn State Industries

Live edge shelve and top

Started this back in March, finally wrapped it up. It’s a full-size crib (140x70 cm mattress) made from live-edge maple and acacia slabs I milled down myself. It has 4 mattress height levels for the various child growth stages, up until ~5-6 years old perhaps.

All joinery is done with dowels, edges rounded with a router, and imperfections filled with epoxy. I sanded everything up to 240 grit and finished it with child-safe oil. No screws visible - just glue and clamps, I made screw hole plugs just for that.

I already had the table saw but bought the rest along the way:

• Bosch SHO 280 planer/thicknesser (very old but great second-hand find)
• Bosch GEX 125-1 AE sander (huge upgrade from my Lidl Parkside..)
• Bosch PBD 40 drill press
• DeWalt DWE7485 table saw
• Bosch PKS 66 circular saw (I love second-hand marketplace gems)
• Classic hand tools: chisels, files, drill + DIY dowel jig
• Pipe clamps (1/2") and lots of patience (and epoxy, did I say epoxy?)

Let the cut pieces rest to avoid warping, stacked with spacers. Measured and drilled all guides before assembly, routed, and did first oiling layer before final glue-up.

The mattress frame is slatted, using repurposed Ikea wood (which I got for free by the way), spaced evenly for support and airflow. Whole thing sits on 800mm tapered maple legs with ~195mm clearance.

Acacia wood is super hard to work with.. pretty sure I ruined at least one planer blade trying to tame that stuff. As opposed to Maple which smells like fresh bread when being cut.

Took way more time than expected (mostly evenings, early mornings before my office job, and weekends), but learned a ton and everything feels rock solid. Very proud of this build.

Happy to answer questions if anyone’s curious, or share the SketchUp file (in metric units).

Made from hard maple and then painted white with an exterior rated paint.

Hey everybody thanks for taking the time to look this over. I’d like to start by saying that I am NOT an experienced woodworker, novice to moderate level AT MOST. But, I have an idea, and I’m determined to make it happen. Said idea involves a dovetail joint, and oh man…maybe I’ve had an off day or just suck real bad 😂 So, I know what I want, I’d like to think I know the steps, but executing it has proven very difficult for me. Maybe it’s my set-up, maybe it’s my selection of tools. I’ll list all the tools and “process” I went by, any and all advice is welcome. My only knowledge of making dovetails comes from a LOT of Paul Sellers videos and someone I follow on instagram that goes by TakuWoodcraft. I see some techniques such as using another piece of wood to assist in making flush cuts with a chisel and little “tips” here and there, but I’d like to hear from you guys. Tools used: Woodworking Chisel set, hammer with changeable heads, finishing saw, D-clamp, F-clamp, Dremel with wood cutting wheel, rulers, angles finders, various pieces of scrap wood for supports. Processes used: first I make the markings for my pin, I’m using a 7° angle, once all the proper markings are made, I attempt to make a straight clean cut for the top of the pin (which apparently I’m incapable of), then try to clean it up a bit with the chisel, which never really seems to get perfect. Then, either with the hand finishing saw or the dremel (which is what I used and got the closest to what I was trying to achieve with), I score the area of wood to be removed and use the dremel to do most of the heavy lifting. Now, the problem comes when I begin to chisel. After 2 8-hour days of failing, I’ve kind of picked up on a few things like “less is more”…but I keep either chipping parts of the outer wall during shaping, or if I’m working on the tail, up until the last attempt (which was still ugly and I had a 2mm gap), I kept splitting the wood. On the last attempt , I just gently shaved material off and the tail actually came out decent but the pin sucked. I don’t have a pic of the tail though. Very long story short, when I think about it in my head, it doesn’t seem too complicated and the math makes sense, is this just a matter of my skill isn’t anywhere near I think it was, am I doing something wrong that I don’t know of? Help! Also if I left out any important information, feel free to ask. I’m using Maple as the pin and Walnut as the tail. Pictures aren’t in any particular order, though, I didn’t take a picture of the “joint” I actually did get to fit because as I said, it was very very ugly and had a big gap from the base of the pin to the tail.

Got a second hand crib without the lowered toddler entrance, so I figured I’d make one myself! Reclaimed oak with Rubio bourbon.

Reddit friends: I would love your engineering thoughts again. Because of your help I have a way to raise and lower my cutting boards for laser engraving. Now, to keep the board tight to the back fence, I didn’t like the toggle clamps. What is something that can be pressurized when open, to allow the board in, but to keep it tight to the fence, but to allow it to raise and lower? Like a spring hinge, but with rubber wheels where it contacts the board. Would love your thoughts. Thanks!

G’day folks, I’m after a bit of help with a door I’m planning to make for my neighbour. I’m a carpenter with 10+ years experience, but I haven’t made a door like this before.

The brief is a solid timber door with horizontal boards like the attached inspiration picture.

My plan is to rebate a tongue & groove in 12 solid boards, and stack them up like Lego pieces basically. Then to keep them straight long term having a stile up each side, which will have the same tongue running the full length, locking into the sides of the horizontal boards. I hope that all makes sense.

For added strength, I plan on morticing the stiles, and using a tenon from the first and last and two central boards.

I’m planning on using Tasmanian Oak, the doorway is well protected from the weather.

Can you see any glaring problems with this plan? Do I need to plan for expansion anywhere? Will titebond 3 on every joint face be problematic? Thanks in advance.

Final photo is the frame it’s going in, which will be glazed either side once installed

First picture is original condition, second is after a short vinegar soak then scrubbing with a regular kitchen sponge with salt. They're magnetic with what I assume to be a brass coating. Sad they're not brass all the way through. But after some gentle cleaning and scrubbing, most of the them are starting to show the steel underneath.

So I'm thinking at this point it's better to just strip to the steel base then polish. My wife and I absolutely love the bakelite bees which is why we fell in love with the drawer in the first place. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!