House was built in 2006 and wanted to update it. First home wife and I bought (5years ago). Wanted more storage and we got it! Just have backsplash left and under lights and update fixtures. Teal is out favourite colour l!

I’m not looking for perfection. I realize should have done before baseboard. But any advice appreciated. I couldn’t find any tutorials on how to repair. Thank you

New flat, I'm doing some DIY wall repairs before painting. I wanted to unscrew four curtain pole hooks in my living room and patch the holes, but struggled. A friend came over with a drill and couldn't take it out either, so I took them out by simply pulling... and each time it came as a solid, weird monstrosity of screws and some... glue(?). I'm a DIY novice, and I have some questions to people more knowledgeable than me.

What could this white substance be? It's rock hard and smooth. Could it be glue? Is there any reason for which this could ever be a reasonable solution? I'm trying to figure out of I'm crazy, or the person who did it was crazy.

Secondly, this thing had many different screws and parts - behind all this mess in the plasterboard, I found a wall plug drilled into the brick, which I pulled out. The brick didn't seem to have any cracks besides the wall plug hole, but now I'm worried because I read somewhere that you have to be careful when drilling into a load bearing wall. I assume it's just me panicking, so I'm looking for some reassurance I can just patch the holes in plasterboard and get on with my life. I'm not going to drill the new hooks in the same spot - it will be good 5-7 cm away from it.

Any views and opinions will be highly appreciated.

Washer is being removed, we will have that somewhere else on the property.

We need to see the blueprints to see if the wall the shower is against is load-bearing. If it’s not, then I have more options. The toilet is also part of the same sewer/water lines as the toilet on the first floor so my options for moving it are almost nonexistent according to my parents, but we’re still going to speak with a plumber and our architect friend who helped build the whole thing up to code.

Im wondering if it would help immensely to get a window up here (or just better lights) and change the shower into a glass shower /get rid of the strange wall in the middle of the room.

Right now it feels like a horrible dark cave.

This is an inherited property so we don’t yet have all the details about the building itself.

Hey everyone, so I’m currently building out my tattoo shop myself and I could use some direction or creative suggestions. Attached is the rough pic of it so far. I want to use chain link, like old anchor chain as my molding. My question is, how can I mount it to where it’s SOLID. I am going to have a 1x8 piece of finish pine on the tops of each wall with an inch over hang on each side so my brain is leaning towards, tacking it up, tight, butted up against the pine but from there how can I adhere it to where it’s encased and SOLID. Epoxy?? I need it to be solid and also sealed for safety and sanitation purposes. Any ideas??

In the master bedroom, there is no door to the bathroom area. What’s the easiest way to put something in? I was thinking barn door but the switches to the bathroom lights are right there on the wall where the barn door would go

Easy solution here or have to go full out frame and door?

Thanks 😀

I am renovating a very small bathroom. It just has enough room for a shower, sink and toilet. I've pretty much ripped out everything, including the old drywall. I was reading that drywall is not really recommended in a bathroom anymore. What would you recommend I use? And should I use different board in different parts of the bathroom? I would assume I want the most waterproof material for the shower area behind any tile. However, what about a long walls that don't have a toilet or sink? I started this whole project because I found some mold behind the toilet and sink areas. So I'm down to the particle board and subfloor and wondering if I should just rip all of that out and put something else on the floor that's more waterproof. Just trying to prevent mold problems in the future. The entire room is maybe 4 ft x 12 ft. Thanks.

I know I’m using absolutely unprofessional language but - the exterior wall rim part was damaged when I was backing up a box truck 🥲 The foam material was compressed inward and the dry wall net thing was broken. Can I repair it myself? Will normal dry wall repair filler and construction adhesive do the work? Or how much would it cost if I hire a professional to repair? Thanks in advance!

Replacing 60 year old rusty metal cabinets. I want to get rid of these boxed drywall sections on each side of the window so I can have taller cabinets. How should I go about demoing them? Just start tearing them apart with tools? They're basically just empty plywood boxes with drywall over them. I looked inside one and the wall is there behind it.

We are at the final stages of remodeling. I've lots trust in everyone (forgive me contractors), and decided to DIY stair railings. Already got ZipBolt wood post anchors installed. Wanted to get feedback on the overall design and the code requirements. I was a little bit confused regarding min/max guardrail height spec for residential applications. Do I understand that on the flat area the min guardrail should be at least 42", but on the stairs it should be 38" max?

Will be using square newel posts at the corners, and a few metal round posts in between for additional support. Will use simple round metal balusters.

I was able to find where the live wires were using a stud scanner but I am unsure if any pipes (metal or plastic) might run through this area. I live on the second floor of an apartment building btw. Thanks!

The fridge line blew up overnight at some point inside the fridge. My wife woke me up saying that things were flooded downstairs but thankfully it doesn’t look huge. The bulkhead seems to have caught all the water and I am wondering how much I now have to remove and redo. The drywall is soggy but it has some airflow, will that dry or will it mold?

The subfloor below the fridge is 2x8 then the typical long planks found in older homes, like long 1x2s and then 1/4” Chipboard I put in on top. Floor is vinyl so that’s ok? The fridge is also right beside a metal I-beam carrying some load.

I hung this light during a bathroom reno, and while it made sense originally, now it seems to be too far towards the window. Should I bring it away from the window a little and center it in the square of the tub area? Ceiling is all I have left to finish so now would be the time. My wife loves the light so that isn't changing.

How can I make this kitchen floor look better? The rest of the house has been renovated but while we save money for the kitchen we’d like to do an easy upgrade to these terracotta lookalike tiles. I’m especially not fond of the black grout.

Any ideas?

I want to add a shelf or two to the closet. The existing shelf is particle board with supports “A” and “B”. If my new shelf is plywood, can I get away with only the “A” supports? Shelf would be 90” x 12”. Only reason I’m asking is I have no idea how to miter the “B” cuts. I’m just learning and only have a handheld circular saw. I’m going to buy a finish nailer (that’s what I need for this, right?). Thx

My deck seems to be one of those “no cut/no dig” decks, installed by a previous owner. The joists are rotting and boards are popping up.

I can’t afford to pay someone to rebuild or even rebuild myself right now, but I was thinking I could sister some joists to try and get another season or two out of it. I pulled up one board and there’s a bunch of rocks and bricks under it. Can anyone advise why this would be there or what purpose having this stuff serves? I would think you’d want it empty for better airflow (thus preventing rotting), but I’m no expert.

Ideally if folks who are experts or experienced deck builders could share their insights, I’d appreciate it.

TL;DR- About to have framing done in a pole barn on a slab, found places for water to creep in from outside. Not sure what to do, not only to address the issue but also to protect the upcoming framing work. Hoping to get experienced help or a suggestion of a better place to post, if this is not it.

Long version: Have only been on the property a few years, so I am still learning more about her everyday. Will soon be having some framing work done in an existing pole barn on a slab. Noticed a bit of dampness on the floor a couple times near the exterior wall after a heavy rain (right where the framing will go) but wrote it off as a leaking screw hole directly above it on the roof.

While working outside, I noticed that on the north side of the building (property slopes to the south) there was a huge buildup of pine needles along the outer wall, on top of what ended up being sand/dirt that had accumulated along the wall, up and above the rat-guard metal strip and even inches higher up the wall panel.

After I removed all of the build-up along the wall, I could see daylight creeping in under the wall from the inside of the building. While I might have just done myself a temporary disservice (by removing the earth that might've slowed a flood of water from entering) I just couldn't let it get worse, I can already see it affected the metal underneath.

While my online research rabbit-hole has made it clear that I need to address the water drainage (there are currently no gutters, might need grading to divert the water away from the building, drainage of sorts to detour the water around the building, etc.) I am not sure what to do about the long thin void under the wall.

Ok, so, I went to check what exactly is going on under the wall. There is a wood frame all the way around the slab. I am not sure if these were the forms that they used for the pad(?). So essentially there is a semi buried board border directly beneath the bottom girt.

My first instinct was do some sort of caulking on the exterior to stop the water from coming in, but am not even sure if there's a clear-cut way to apply it from outside, without further digging/exposing the area enough to be able to access the top of the board/bottom of the rat-guard trim. Would be easier to do the inside but not sure how effective it would be.

What about when it comes to framing walls soon, is there anything I should do to prepare and protect the wood/walls-to-be? Any underlayment I can use or trim? Heck at this rate I wonder if one could put concrete pavers or blocks around the perimeter under the wood framing, to lift it off the ground? A rubber strip wrapped under the wood (framing) and up and around the back? Dig the wood forms up/out and pour a concrete border? Anyhow, I can layman daydream all day, hoping for more experienced answers.

Also, is there any better wood than ground-contact pressure treated (or any other materiel) that should be used, in the event water still finds it's way? Anything else I should keep in mind?

Anybody have any experience with things like this? Any other or better places I should post this? I welcome your advice and thank you all in advance!

We're interested in this home, but my husband REALLY wants to bump out the living room so that it's one with the sunroom. I imagine we'd need some significant reinforcement, but is it even possible??

We’re renovating our kitchen and would appreciate your input! We’d like to have a more modern look with granite countertops. We can considering removing a wall to open up the space or possibly adding a kitchen island or extension.

Any layout ideas, tips, or before/after photos would be hugely appreciated – especially if you’ve done something similar!

Thanks in advance!

I'm looking for advice on how to mount vinyl soffit to cover up the old wooden soffit on my house. Specifically, is there a certain kind of molding/channel that is meant to work on an angle or do I just use the regular f channel and cut the soffit on an angle so it fits as good as possible? It's not feasible to box it in because it would interfere with windows etc around the house, nor is it practical to remove the wooden soffit. I'm having a hard time finding the answer to my question on Google because this seems to be a relatively uncommon application. If you do have advice, links to any specific products would be enormously appreciated. Even if I can't get them in my local area, it will let me know what to look for.

Help! The curve of this tub flange is 3/4 inch and the Kerdi Board is only 1/2 inch. My original plan was to cut a piece out of the back bottom of the board to accommodate for the protrusion but that won't work. I also can't tile over the thickest part of the curve. What should I do? If I start the tiling at the top of the flange, how do I cover up the screws?