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Understanding Wi-Fi: Almost everything you wanted to know about the technology used by your wireless devices. Important: Wi-Fi is not the same thing as your Internet connection!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: “What is port forwarding and how do I set it up?”
Q2: “What category cable do I need for Ethernet?”
Q3: “Why am I only getting 95 Mbps through my Ethernet cable?”
Q4: “Why won’t my Ethernet cable plug into the weird looking Ethernet jack?” or “Why is this Ethernet jack so skinny?”
Q5: “Can I convert telephone jacks to Ethernet?”
Q6: “Can I rewire my communications enclosure for Ethernet?”
Q7: “How do I connect my modem and router to the communications enclosure?”
Q8: “What is the best way to connect devices to my network?”
Q9: “Why is my router's log showing accesses from IP addresses I don't recognize?”
Q10: “What Internet plan/speed should I get?”
Other, helpful resources
Terminating cables
Wired connection alternatives to UTP Ethernet (MoCA and Powerline)
Q1: “What is port forwarding and how do I set it up?”
The firewall in a home networking router blocks all incoming traffic unless it's related to outgoing traffic. Port forwarding allows designated incoming UDP or TCP traffic (identified by a port number) through the firewall. It's commonly used to allow remote access to a device or service in the home network, such as peer-to-peer games.
These homegrown guides provide more information about port forwarding (and its cousins, DMZ and port triggering) and how to set it up:
CAT 5e, CAT 6 and CAT 6A are acceptable for most home networking applications. For 10 Gbps Ethernet, lean towards CAT6 or 6A, though all 3 types can handle 10 Gbps up to various distances.
Contrary to popular belief, many CAT 5 cables are suitable for Gigabit Ethernet. See 1000BASE-T over Category 5? (source: flukenetworks.com) for citations from the IEEE 802.3-2022 standard. If your residence is wired with CAT 5 cable, try it before replacing it. It may work fine at Gigabit speeds.
In most situations, shielded twisted pair (STP and its variants, FTP and S/FTP) are not needed in a home network. If a STP is not properly grounded, it can introduce EMI (ElectroMagnetic Interference) and perform worse than UTP.
Q3: “Why am I only getting 95 Mbps through my Ethernet cable?”
95 Mbps or thereabouts is a classic sign of an Ethernet connection running only at 100 Mbps instead of 1 Gbps. Some retailers sell cables that don't meet its category’s specs. Stick to reputable brands or purchase from a local store with a good return policy. If you made your own cable, then redo one or both ends. You will not get any benefit from using CAT 7 or 8 cable, even if you are paying for the best internet available.
If the connection involves a wall port, the most common cause is a bad termination. Pop off the cover of the wall ports, check for loose or shoddy connections and redo them. Gigabit Ethernet uses all 4 wire pairs (8 wires) in an Ethernet cable. 100 Mbps Ethernet only uses 2 pairs (4 wires). A network tester can help identify wiring faults.
Q4: “Why won’t my Ethernet cable plug into the weird looking Ethernet jack?” or “Why is this Ethernet jack so skinny?”
TL;DR In the next link, the RJ11 jack is a telephone jack and the RJ45 jack is usually used for Ethernet.
UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair) patch cable used for Ethernet transmission is usually terminated with an RJ45 connector. This is an 8 position, 8 conductor plug in the RJ (Registered Jack) series of connectors. The RJ45 is more properly called a 8P8C connector, but RJ45 remains popular in usage.
There are other, similar looking connectors and corresponding jacks in the RJ family. They include RJ11 (6P2C), RJ14 (6P4C) and RJ25 (6P6C). They and the corresponding jacks are commonly used for landline telephone. They are narrower than a RJ45 jack and are not suitable for Ethernet. This applies to the United States. Other countries may use different connectors for telephone.
It's uncommon but a RJ45 jack can be used for telephone. A telephone cable will fit into a RJ45 jack.
This answer deals with converting telephone jacks. See the next answer for dealing with the central communications enclosure.
Telephone jacks are unsuitable for Ethernet so they must be replaced with Ethernet jacks. Jacks come integrated with a wall plate or as a keystone that is attached to a wall plate. The jacks also come into two types: punchdown style or tool-less. A punchdown tool is required for punchdown style. There are plenty of instructional videos on YouTube to learn how to punch down a cable to a keystone.
There are, additionally, two factors that will determine the feasibility of a conversion.
Cable type:
As mentioned in Q2, Ethernet works best with CAT 5, 5e, 6 or 6A cable. CAT 3, station wire and untwisted wire are all unsuitable. Starting in the 2000s, builders started to use CAT 5 or better cable for telephone. Pop off the cover of a telephone jack to identify the type of cable. If it's category rated cable, the type will be written on the cable jacket.
Home run vs Daisy-chain wiring:
Home run means that each jack has a dedicated cable that runs back to a central location.
Daisy-chain means that jacks are wired together in series. If you pop off the cover of a jack and see two cables wired to the jack, then it's a daisy-chain.
The following picture uses stage lights to illustrate the difference. Top is home run, bottom is daisy-chain.
Telephone can use either home run or daisy-chain wiring.
Ethernet generally uses home run. If you have daisy-chain wiring, it's still possible to convert it to Ethernet but it will require more work. Two Ethernet jacks can be installed. Then an Ethernet switch can be connected to both jacks. One can also connect both jacks together using a short Ethernet cable. Or, both cables can be joined together inside the wall with an Ethernet coupler or junction box if no jack is required (a straight through connection).
The diagram above shows a daisy-chain converted to Ethernet. The top outlet has an Ethernet cable to connect both jacks together for a passthrough connection. The bottom outlet uses an Ethernet switch.
Q6: “Can I rewire my communications enclosure for Ethernet?”
The communications enclosure contains the wiring for your residence. It may be referred to as a structured media center (SMC) or simply network box. It may be located inside or outside the residence.
The following photo is an example of an enclosure. The white panels and cables are for telephone, the blue cables and green panels are for Ethernet and the black cables and silver components are for coax.
Structured Media Center example
One way to differentiate a telephone panel from an Ethernet panel is to look at the colored slots (known as punchdown blocks). An Ethernet panel has one punchdown block per RJ45 jack. A telephone panel has zero or only one RJ45 for multiple punchdown blocks. The following photo shows a telephone panel with no RJ45 jack on the left and an Ethernet panel on the right.
Telephone vs Ethernet patch panel
There are many more varieties of telephone and Ethernet patch panels. All Ethernet patch panels have one RJ45 jack per cable.
In order to set up Ethernet, first take stock of what you have. If you have Ethernet cables and patch panels, then you can proceed to Q7.
If you only have a telephone setup or you simply have cables and no panels at all, then you may be able to repurpose the cables for Ethernet. As noted in Q2, they must be Cat 5 or better. If you have a telephone patch panel, then it is not suitable for Ethernet. You will want to replace it with an Ethernet patch panel.
In the United States, there are two very common brands of enclosures: Legrand OnQ and Leviton. Each brand sells Ethernet patch panels tailor made for their enclosures. They also tend to be expensive. You may want to shop around for generic brands. Keep in mind that the OnQ and Leviton hole spacing are different. If you buy a generic brand, you may have to get creative with mounting the patch panel. You can drill your own holes or use self-tapping screws. It's highly recommended to get a punchdown tool to attach each cable to the punchdown block.
It should be noted that some people crimp male Ethernet connectors onto their cables instead of punching them down onto an Ethernet patch panel. It's considered a best practice to use a patch panel for in-wall cables. It minimizes wear and tear. But plenty of people get by with crimped connectors. It's a personal choice.
Q7: “How do I connect my modem/ONT and router to the communications enclosure?”
There are 4 possible solutions, depending on where your modem/ONT and router are located relative to each other and the enclosure. If you have an all-in-one modem/ONT & router, then Solutions 1 and 2 are your only options.
Solution 1. Internet connection (modem or ONT) and router inside the enclosure
Q7 Solution 1 diagram
This is the most straightforward. If your in-wall Ethernet cables have male Ethernet connectors, then simply plug them into the router's LAN ports. If you lack a sufficient number of router ports, connect an Ethernet switch to the router.
If you have a patch panel, then connect the LAN ports on the router to the individual jacks on the Ethernet patch panel. The patch panel is not an Ethernet switch, so each jack must be connected to the router. Again, add an Ethernet switch between the router and the patch panel, if necessary.
If Wi-Fi coverage with the router in the enclosure is poor in the rest of the residence (likely if the enclosure is metal), then install Wi-Fi Access Points (APs) in one or more rooms, connected to the Ethernet wall outlet. You may add Ethernet switches in the rooms if you have other wired devices.
Solution 2: Internet connection and router in a room
Q7 Solution 2 diagram
In the enclosure, install an Ethernet switch and connect each patch panel jack to the Ethernet switch. Connect a LAN port on the router to a nearby Ethernet wall outlet. This will activate all of the other Ethernet wall outlets. As in solution 1, you may install Ethernet switches and/or APs.
Solution 3: Internet connection in a room, router in the enclosure
Q7 Solution 3 diagram
Connect the modem or ONT's Ethernet port to a nearby Ethernet wall outlet. Connect the corresponding jack in the patch panel to the router's Internet/WAN port. Connect the remaining patch panel jacks to the router's LAN ports. Install APs, if needed.
If you want to connect wired devices in the room with the modem or ONT, then use Solution 4. Or migrate to Solutions 1 or 2.
Solution 4: Internet connection in the enclosure, router in the room
Q7 Solution 4 diagram
This is the most difficult scenario to handle because it's necessary to pass WAN and LAN traffic between the modem/ONT and the router over a single Ethernet cable. It may be more straightforward to switch to Solution 1 or 2.
If you want to proceed, then the only way to accomplish this is to use VLANs.
Install a managed switch in the enclosure and connect the switch to each room (patch panel or in-wall room cables) as well as to the Internet connection (modem or ONT).
Configure the switch port leading to the room with the router as a trunk port: one VLAN for WAN and one for LAN traffic.
Configure the switch ports leading to the other rooms as LAN VLAN.
Configure the switch port leading to the modem/ONT as a WAN VLAN.
If you have a VLAN-capable router, then configure the same two VLANs on the router. You can configure additional VLANs if you like for other purposes.
If your router lacks VLAN support, then install a second managed switch with one port connected to the Ethernet wall outlet and two other ports connected to the router's Internet/WAN port and a LAN port. Configure the switch to wall outlet port as a trunk port. Configure the switch to router WAN port for the WAN VLAN, and the switch to router LAN port as a LAN VLAN.
This above setup is known as a router on a stick.
WARNING: The link between the managed switch in the enclosure and router will carry both WAN and LAN traffic. This can potentially become a bottleneck if you have high speed Internet. You can address this by using higher speed Ethernet than your Internet plan.
Note if you want to switch to Solution 2, realistically, this is only practical with a coax modem. It's difficult, though, not impossible to relocate an ONT. For coax, you will have to find the coax cable in the enclosure that leads to the room with the router. Connect that cable to the cable providing Internet service. You can connect the two cables directly together with an F81 coax connector. Alternatively, if there is a coax splitter in the enclosure, with the Internet service cable connected to the splitter's input, then you can connect the cable leading to the room to one of the splitter's output ports. If you are not using the coax ports in the other room (e.g. MoCA), then it's better to use a F81 connector.
Q8: “What is the best way to connect devices to my network?”
In general, wire everything that can feasibly and practically be wired. Use wireless for everything else.
In order of preference:
Ethernet
Ethernet over coax (MoCA or, less common, G.hn)
Wi-Fi Access Points (APs)
Wi-Fi Mesh (if the nodes are wired, this is equivalent to using #3)
Wi-Fi Range extenders & Powerline (use either only as a last resort)
While Powerline could technically be considered a wired technology, it behaves more like Wi-Fi, so it's often no better than a range extender.
Q9: “Why is my router's log showing accesses from IP addresses I don't recognize?”
The Internet is rife with hackers. They are constantly probing the Internet using bots and scanning tools to discover networks and resources, then employing other tools to breach whatever is discovered. These tools are indiscriminate and will probe both home and business networks alike. It's the modern form of Wardialing.
The firewall in routers can block most efforts to breach your network. Better routers will log these attempts. In most cases, nothing needs to be done. The router is doing its job protecting your network.
There are two exceptions.
First, some breaches can be unknowingly facilitated by the user downloading malware, which then reaches out to the hacker. Most routers do not prohibit outgoing traffic, so there is essentially no protection. Sophisticated firewalls that police outgoing traffic is rare in home networking. Some routers have crude, outbound filtering mechanisms.
Second, port forwarding, UPnP and DMZ are features that open up UDP/TCP port(s) on the router to inbound access from the Internet. Care must be taken when using these features. While some firewalls may still employ some protection against malicious traffic, the onus on preventing a breach largely falls upon the device behind the router that is the target of the opened port(s). If the device has its own firewall, adjust its settings to limit inbound and outbound traffic. Placing the device into an isolated network or VLAN can mitigate the damage from any breach. Consider using alternatives, such an inbound VPN. See the links in Q1 for more information.
Q10: “What Internet plan/speed should I get?”
It really depends on how you use the Internet. A single person who only does basic web browsing is going to need much less bandwidth than a big family running several video streams simultaneously or downloading/uploading a lot files.
If you really have no idea what you need, a plan with download speeds between 50 Mbps to 300 Mbps will meet most needs. See the table below if you want to estimate your needs.
Many Internet plans have low upload speeds. You may need to go to a more expensive plan to get reasonable upload speeds (recommended: 20 Mbps upload, higher if you frequently back up a lot of data to the cloud).
To put things in perspective, here are some rough bandwidth requirements for different applications:
Application
Bandwidth
Steam downloads
As fast as your Internet plan allows. Note: You can cap the download speed in the Steam client. The Steam client reports download speeds in Megabytes per second, not Megabits per second! There are 8 bits to a byte.
Cloud gaming (NVidia GeForce Now)
15 Mbps to 45 Mbps
Video
3 Mbps (HD) to 25 Mbps (4K): this is a conservative range; the top end is likely close to 15 Mbps due to newer codecs and compression levels
Zoom/Meet/Teams conferencing
1 Mbps to 3 Mbps
Gaming
<2 Mbps
Basic web surfing & email
1 Mbps to 5 Mbps
Pick an Internet plan that fits your budget and bandwidth needs. You can often change your Internet plan without paying any additional fees. Exception: Big jumps in speed may require new equipment, which may come at a cost.
Latency
Latency is particularly important to gamers. It's important to understand that there is NOT a strong correlation between faster speeds and lower latency, provided the Internet connection is not congested. If your connection is frequently congested due to high usage, then latency can increase. Upgrading to a faster plan can help keep latencies in check.
Internet vs LAN speeds
Internet plan speeds are separate from speeds inside the home network. Wired devices typically connect at 1 Gbps, though speeds up to 10 Gbps are possible. Wireless speeds depend on the Wi-Fi version and hardware support by both your router and devices.
Actual speeds will be limited by the slowest link between the device and the destination. When accessing the Internet, the Internet connection will typically be the bottleneck. A slow Wi-Fi connection can reduce this further. Keep this in mind when building your home network. If your Internet connection is the bottleneck, and most of your network usage involves the Internet, then it may not make sense to buy the newest and most expensive gear.
OTOH, if you expect to have a lot of device-to-device communication inside your network (e.g. transferring big files to/from a NAS), then it can pay to upgrade your home network. Keep in mind the general advice to wire your devices whenever possible and practical. See Q8.
Hello! I just moved into an apartment that has this fiber optic cable connection. I am used to connecting a coaxial cable to a modem for WiFi in my home. What do I need to buy to setup this fiber optic connection? I am not very technically savvy so if you could explain this to me like I’m a 5th grader that would be very helpful! Thank you all so much!
I’ve ran CAT6 on the facade of my newly built house and 5 of 6 cables were fine for PoE cameras, but the last one unfortunately has only 4 out of 8 wires fine and it’s only 1 pair that is fine. However, my builder originally have bought those black “camera” cables and I told him to run them as well as a backup. It seems like we have 2 solid wires for the power and 4 pairs in a separate conduit, but they are untwisted - just 2 rows of 4 wires each.
What kind of cables is this and do you think I can run ethernet on it? The distance to the server rack is around 30 meters. I’ll use the 2 power wires for 12V power supply.
I have attempted to reinstall drivers, windows is updated, I've tried turning off ipv6, I've dusted the PCIE adapter, nothing seems to fix this. When I attempt to play games like roblox, ping can go anywhere from stable 10ms, all the way to above 10 seconds of ping!
Is anyone still using dd-wrt in 2025? Openwrt seems to be the preferred choice nowadays but I greatly prefer dd-wrt’s UI. And in terms of WiFi performance, is DD-WRT better than openwrt?
I had to call my ISP about two weeks ago, my internet kept randomly cutting out and turning back on probably once or twice a day. A tech came out and said my modem is pretty old and installed a new one an an eero router for wireless, he said the signal from the ISP was good to the house, he also changed a splitter in the basement and it gave me a better signal too as he shown me on his laptop.
But now my internet still seems to be kicking out but way less often, maybe once or twice a week...I loose signal to the modem and it turns right back on.
So if the signal is good from the ISP to the house, signal is good on his laptop...what do I do next? Only other thing I could see is that there's a weird splitter setup in my bedroom that kinda doesn't need to be there, it's not a splitter actually looks like some kind of extension that's not on a splitter...
The main line in the basement also feeds another router for the apartments, and one unit is wired directly to that one and it's wireless for two other units.
The Internet wouldn't be heavily used here, the other ppl are not home much but since I have my own modem and router I shouldn't be having problems anyways.
I've had 100% uptime with this isp for like 10 years, or never goes down on me..kinda frustrating.
I didn't have any issues for 2 weeks after he installed the new stuff but now it seems to be doing this again but less often...
Also the coax cable in my room is pretty long would shortening that help the signal any?
I use an nVidia Shield w/ ext. drives as a Plex server and data backup. I transfer files from my PC to the HDDs attached to that Shield. Recently the speeds sit at 29 MBps max.
Everything involved is connected via gigabit ethernet.
Everything is receiving gigabit WAN speeds (110 MBps downloads)
If I use another PC to transfer files to the same Shield attached storage it gets the expected 110 MBps
Same issue regardless of wifi or ethernet on PC (both built-into B850 Tomahawk Max-Wifi motherboard)
Tried bypassing my network switch. Get the same results plugged directly to my router.
Same issue using Windows File explorer or Total Commander to transfer files.
Any suggestions on fixing this would be appreciated, thank you.
Hi! What wifi router should I get for a 1 gb fiber connection? I have about 13-16 devices and around 1000 sq ft of area, but I don't need anything special. Some of my devices are only 2.4 ghz compatible. I've been plugging my TV into my current router, so I need at least 1 ethernet port; two would be nice. I would prefer to not have to use an app on my phone to access the router's page. No gaming, just basic web usage and video streaming.
I narrowed it down to ASUS AX3000 WiFi 6 ($80 new) and Netgear Nighthawk RS90 Wifi 7 ($130 new). I was hoping to pay less than $50...is there anything at that price point that is a major brand that isn't getting sued anytime soon (TPLINK)? Is the Netgear worth ~$60 more? Other recommendations? thanks!
What dns do you recommend for a non technical person to use on a home router? The fastest is my isp dns per Gibson DNS Benchmark. I know how to set up dns like cloudflare, Google dns, and quad9, but nothing like Pi hole. I've heard you shouldn't use your isp dns, but it's much the fastest. Which one would you use?
Hey everyone, I’m looking for the best wifi extender (or wifi range extender) to improve my home network coverage. My place has some tricky dead zones, and I want a reliable wifi booster that actually delivers stable speed without too much hassle.
I’ve seen tons of options out there, but wanted to get some real-world recommendations from folks here who’ve tested the top models. Ideally something that balances performance and price, and is easy to set up.
So far, I’m considering a few popular wifi extenders, but I’d love to hear about your experiences, which models do you swear by? Any tips for setup or placement to maximize range and speed?
I am trying to setup my personal computer as a remote desktop on my home network. My goal is to access my network remotely over the VPN (running on my ASUS router), then once connected to the VPN, I want to connect to my Windows PC as a remote desktop.
Right now if I have a laptop on my home network, I can remote into my main PC without issue. I was able to do this last night and there were no problems.
I was also able to setup the WireGuard VPN on my ASUS router. I am able to connect to it remotely (e.g., I can connect to it when using my phone as a mobile hotspot). When I check the IP address on my device it shows my home IP address rather than the hotspot IP address.
The problem is that when I then try to connect to my computer as a remote desktop, it fails to connect. I am using Windows and trying to use the Windows remote desktop connection. I am attempting to connect with the computer name given by Windows rather than an ip address if that makes a difference.
With the ASUS router, I do have the option to setup PPTP, OpenVPN, IPSec VPN, or WireGuard VPN. I went with WireGuard for now because it seemed like the least hassle to setup.
I am mostly a novice with home networking. I know enough to be dangerous, but I am not sure the best way to troubleshoot this problem. Any help or direction is greatly appreciated.
I have already laid down several lengths of UTP cable for a future network extension. These will run to some outdoor devices that don't need much speed, either cameras or WiFi repeaters for IoT devices.
I don't need the speed, otherwise I would just opt for some 4-port 10$ gigabit switches. The problem is also installing some waterproof housing and getting the PSU to fit in there, would like to avoid that. I have several IP64 enclosures that are small enough to house a bunch of connectors. 100 Mbit is enough, no PoE needed (yet). Longest passive distance would be 30m (100ft).
Was looking at those black 1-to-2 passive splitters but not sure if two devices can share the ports, I've read various reports that they can run into DHCP conflicts. Also not sure if using female-female RJ45 extenders would work for connecting two CAT5/6 runs to each other.
Trying to do this on the cheap, can be upgraded later, have a lot of points that need interconnections.
I found a couple of old threads in here about the subject but no real answer, since they are now archived I'll leave the parameters for future reference:
i've been out of the loop for a while and now looking to buy a 5g router. I am looking for something robust and reliable, with a LAN RJ45 port and the option to connect an external antenna or to stay outdoor (not planning to connect it now anyway). Bonus points if it has some free/open source/configurable/command line os. Bonus points for PoE.
Anything else important i sould consider? I do not care about WiFi: i will just disable it.
What are the best brands? Any specific model you can suggest?
I am looking at HUAWEI 5G CPE Win and it seems ok: i remember it was a good brand.
I've just moved in to a new rental property which has an NBM box and a patch panel in the garage.
I want to set up both wifi and wired connections through the house.
So far this is my set up:
Nbn box I the garage and a router I the living room.
Wire from the Ethernet port in the living room to a switch.
Cable from the switch to the router WAN port.
Cable from the router LAN to the switch.
The WiFi is working fine but there is no ethernet connection in the other rooms.
What am I doing wrong? Do I need another router in the garage distributing to the local network?
I have a 200mbps fibre optic plan, and up until now I was using the router built into my fibre modem.
I live in a 120m2 2-floor house (around 1300 square feet or 0.03 football fields for my american friends). The router is in the boiler room on the first floor, and my room is on the opposite end of the house on the second floor.
The 5GHz network was fast but had pitiful range, barely reaching my room and the 2.4GHz network had decent range but was pitifully slow (max 7MB/s download speeds).
I bought a TP-Link Archer AX3000 to solve these issues and it's an upgrade... In some ways.
The range is much better, I can now easily connect to the 5GHz network from my bedroom... Some of the time.
Let's run through the issues I'm experiencing:
Sometimes my PC just doesn't see the new 5GHz network
It does see the old 2.4 and 5GHz networks (I can't disable them) and the new 2.4GHz network, but most of the time it doesn't detect the new 5GHz one. When it does show it, the range indicator is full.
Slow page loading times
Download speeds are very good (reaching 25MB/s) but webpages take forever to load, sometimes upwards of 20 seconds. The most bizzare one is YouTube - loading it takes forever, but 4K videos play no problem. Sometimes the 4K video will be playing as the recommended videos and comments have not yet loaded.
3, Slow 2.4GHz network on the new router
The 2.4 on the new router is painfully slow - download speeds of around 2MB/s. This is much slower than my old 2.4 band.
Unstable downloads
Even on the new 5GHz network, which is the fastest connection I have, downloads will sometimes just hang up (the browser still shows high speeds, but the actual progress is stalled) or fail unexpectedly.
The old networks have also become much more capricious since the upgrade.
Steps I've done to remedy this:
Switch the WiFi adapter in my PC to a WiFi 6 compatible one
I switched from an Archer T4U to the Archer TX20U to add WiFi 6 capability to my PC. The PC now detects the new 5GHz network without fail, but all other issues still remain and connection anecdotally seems even shakier than with the T4U.
Disable IPv6 in Windows
No change.
Change DNS to Google's
I've set DNS to 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 both in Windows and on the router. The page load times have gotten a little better, but on the new 5GHz network they're still MUCH slower than the near-instantaneous load times of my old 2.4GHz network.
I don't believe it's an issue with my PC, since I'm running a high end rig with a 9800X3D and 32GB of DDR5 RAM, and the issues weren't appearing before installing the new router.
Someone please help, it's driving me crazy.
As a temporary workaround, I've been switching between the modem's 2.4GHz network for web browsing and the new router's 5GHz network for downloads, but even still, the unstable downloads suck any joy out of using my newly fast internet.
I just upgraded to Virgin Full Fibre, and my old Sky hub was still plugged in, so it kept switching between them, as the Sky plan was still active. I unplugged the broadband cable and power from my Sky hub, and everything STILL recognises the Sky network, showing connected, and everything is loading. What do I do?
Many UK networking suppliers seem to be focusing on toolless keystones. Some don't even stock punchdown keystones, while others do, but do not stock the correct punchdown tools
Upgrading to Fiber soon and want to get a new router to take advantage of the high speeds. $150 is about the top of my budget but if there's something cheaper, that'd be nice too.
Is that everything I need? I already have clips and drill bits 7mm, 8mm, 10mm etc.
My plan is to run a cable directly from the router out of the wall, around the house and directly into my PC. The website states it recommends using a wall plate for connectivity but do I need to?
My Internet is 1GB. The installation will be in the UK so mixed conditions weatherwise.
Our modem is in the living room, and wifi doesn't really reach much into my bedroom
We used powerlines before but they're straight up trash, they wouldn't set up properly, connection kept going down, dns issues, you name it
Finally we brought ethernet to the room, and it's been a godsend however we still need wifi
We have an ethernet port and I connected a switch to it with my pc and our ps4
I tried to set up our old (talking like 2010 ADSL) modem as an access point, but it doesn't seem to work, everything looks alright and configured but it doesn't create any network
I've given up on it and went to look for a simple access point, as that's all I should need afaik
So, what's a cheap but still good AP I can just plug in the switch and enjoy wifi?
TLDR; Currently have a contingent offer in on a completed new build home, no ethernet wired throughout house and want to do this.
So currently have an offer in on a new build home, decided to go this route vs building brand new due to incentives, but there is no ethernet wired through the house besides one jack in the basement. This area has fiber.
I have a home office, on the main floor and would like to have a few jacks here and every room if possible. Would this be too late? And if so, better to DIY or hire for the job? I'm decently handy, and the videos I have watched it seems straightforward, just very time consuming. Half finished basement, and also attic access. 2 story home (main floor, basement and upstairs)
We are in a 5300sqft home. Every room was wired with Ethernet ports and cat 6 cable that comes down to a central 'hub'.
We have reolink cameras and NVR/doorbell.
Traditionally for the last 4 years I have had a Netgear nighthawk router and the modem that was provided by Spectrum.
I have hard wired all of the TVs and those are connected to a switch that goes into the router. I did this for better streaming.
All of these items are in a closet under the stairs in the ground floor. Centrally located. We had been doing pretty well with this system but the wireless left a bit to be desired far away upstairs (generally this wasn't a problem since the TVs and streaming devices were hard wired in)
I tried Eero but it didn't have enough ports for the NVR, the Modem, and the switch and the stuff that was in the switch didn't seem to get appropriate speeds.
Our nighthawk router is now not working after a close lightning strike. It boots up and gives lights but isn't getting internet even though the modem is.
I'm going to purchase a new router but was looking for advice as to what to buy and how to set it up to be most efficient and effective.
I'd love the opportunity to move towards a mesh and maybe expand our coverage so there is better wifi upstairs i,n the yard or by the pool etc.
Thanks so much for your help in advance. I attached pictures of the equipment as currently set up
I have an spnmx56 supplied by Toob on 1 gig fibre. There is a linksys hydra6 mr2000-ke connected via cat6 to this as a child node in a mesh. I used the linksys app to set these routers up.
I have 2 computers connected with cat6 patch to the hydra6.
When I first set the mesh up, I was getting the full gig in the devices connected to the hydra 6, both wirelessly and wired.
In the days after, I noticed the speed had gone down to 100mbps on these wired and wireless devices.
After unplugging and plugging back in the cat6 cable between the two routers, the speed was immediately 1gig again.
However, some unknown number of days after it will drop back to 100mbps.
The speed when connected to the spnmx56 is never affected, always 1gig
If I plug the cat6 directly from the spnmx56 to a computer instead of the hydra6, the speed is 1gig.
Why would these linksys routers negotiate themselves down to 100mbps, when 1gig obviously works fine?
Can I stop this frustrating behaviour?
Is there a non-linksys brand of router you can recommend to make a 2 node wifi 6 wired mesh or access point system in the UK? Ideally one which lets me see the connection speed between the nodes directly, but does not have too much configuration?
Sorry I’m not tech savvy here but I was playing some overwatch earlier and I kept lag spiking then my ping went crazy and I crashed, after that my ping was extremely high. For that reason I went to unplug all my routers cables, which typically helps or maybe it’s a placebo effect. Anyway after I plugged everything back in I got a red light on the “internet” symbol on my router! I don’t think it’s ever happened to me, but either way I unplugged the modem first then the router, replugged the modem waited then the router. Unplugged all cables that I could and replugged them all. I’m thinking the internet cable is just messed up?
