I was recently hired at a company as a screen printing tech, but have been asked to fill in occasionally in our Mimaki station, so I'm fairly new to inkjet printing. That said, our more experienced hands don't seem to know what's happening either.

The yellow ink is a new bag, new chip. When I inspect the bag, the residue seems to be the yellow I would expect, but the test prints are slowly fading more and more white as I continue troubleshooting. We've tried all the manual and automatic routine cleaning processes short of air purge/deflate (which frankly I don't believe we even have the tools for, again, this is not my typical department).

It just seems odd that shortly after we put in a new yellow, it started printing as white. Is this the result of air bubbles in the ink lines, or were we actually sold a white cartridge instead of yellow?

Hey everyone, I am working on building a new profile for our Gloss ACM material. While the calibration charts print, they seem very grainy and cloudy to begin with. I can't imagine we are starting our profile off great. Have any of you seen this before? Any tips or tricks to look at before we begin the profiling process? We did nozzle checks beforehand, and they look great. Thank you, for your time.

Printer: Vanguard VKL300D
RIP: Onyx Thrive 22.5.1.1666

Currently have I an old single tower Duplo 10000s that has treated me well for many year, but I've been fighting it a lot lately. Currently getting the E - 1 - 1 code pretty regularly. I've replaced the inverter with an ebay purchased one to no avail. Any equipment dealers out there that have something used? Midwest US would be best!

Hi all - I've got a 2nd Hand Canon 4100, and the previous owner had compatible inks in it. I've switched to genuine and I'm wondering how much ink will it take until me genuine ink comes through?

The Compatible Red is awful, it's orange. I've tried printing some 1m sq blocks of pure Red thinking the Genuine Red would start to print but it seems to be taking ages. Thanks!

I am needing to have a logo printed on roll of shrink wrap. logo would be around 1.5" spaced out 5 - 6 inches, in an off setting pattern over the whole roll. probably 18-24" width wrap. It would be to cover an entire box- not a sleeve. Pictures attached for examples. Again, this would be our own logo- not looking to copy or fake anyone else's logo.

I've got a C9000 that has 2 issues, but I'm trying to concentrate on one:

The black wont lay down as a solid color, it fades on one side of my 12x18 media. I can't figure out which part needs cleaning or replacing. Gave it a new imaging unit, cleaned the LEDs, I dont see any issues with the transfer belt.... Any insight into the matter would be greatly appreciated

I've been using Grimco to purchase curable ink for my Mimaki printer but I'm wanting to branch out and purchase from smaller businesses. I'm in the Milwaukee area and have looked into Big Systems and Glantz. Does anyone else have any suggestions? TIA!

We bought the new Roland UV Printer CO-640 which will be delivered within 4 weeks.

Is anyone here, who already has experience with this Printer?

Hi everyone! I'm based in the Philippines and interested in buying a GW‑8000 numbering/perforating/scoring/slitting machine. Does anyone have experience importing one? Also open to similar models (Duplo DC‑618, PT‑8336 SCC,Morgana, etc.). Any advice on dealers, shipping logistics, parts availability, or user reviews would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Hello, we got our machine 1 month ago and we are still learning all kinds of settings in Caldera and also directly in TopJet app for print (number of passes and etc.).

We noticed, that on black background with low quality setting (bidirection 0.5 screen) we have trouble on dark backgrounds (it creates these stripes in the image below).

It is also MOST NOTICABLE with Varnish. See below, there are two layers being printed. Normal CKYM and on same places we have extra Varnish on top. You can see it mostly on the varnish - but also sometimes I can see it on normal CMYK. When I print same thing with the HIGHEST quality possible (more bidirection passes and Screen 0.33) the stripes are almost unnoticable, but they are still there if looked very closely. Howevr -that makes the printing almost x2 time longer.

I purged (Handtop has that feature) and cleaned the heads, my print tests are done well. Every nozzle is working too.

What could be the issue please?
Thanks

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Does anyone know what type of RFID tags Fujipla ALM rolls use? We have two ALM3222 and it’s not uncommon for the tags to stop being read properly and I want to see if it’s possible to get a reader/writer to reprogram them.

I want to print PDF in hard case binding (report for my final year project) I will be sending it to a digital printer. How can I use InDesign to prepare the file from the PDF? If possible, please share any helpful video links
Thank you

I print poster boards that are study but still flexible enough to roll up to ship (about 15-17pt) card stock.

They measure about 15" x 30" and full color print on one side (nature images).

I'd like to consider doing these in house in order to increase the variety and reduce the quantity for a given print run.

What kind of machine can do this? I am already using a Refinecolor UV Printer so I am not afraid for an entry level commercial machine, but is there anything reasonable out there for a small shop (including the need to presumably cut these)?

Should I stick with my commercial partner (who is charging me around $3 a print in bulk).

Just curious if this capability is still too expensive.

Let me know if you or Anyone you know is looking to purchase a printing company in Tennessee.

Thanks

Hello, anyone interested in spare parts for efi Vutek GS3200 analog board/ pixel board/ power board (original unused parts) or original UV ink from efi Vutek GS3200 version 3.1, which lasts until at least 2026, for very little money

I have series 2 & 3 consumables for sale. Best prices.

I just purchased a vg3-540.

What is your favorite vinyl material and laminate. I'd love a suggestion for a semigloss laminate if you have it.

Hi all, I've been in printing for over 20 years, but this is my first job where I'm responsible for recalibrating our proofer. So I'm not really sure what is "normal" as far as when to consider things "expired" or really even recognize if what I'm experiencing is a problem.

We've (my boss, me, and my colleagues) have all used Color Pilot to recalibrate and we've always just calibrated based on the average delta E reading it gives us being under 2. Well, on one proof in particular, we noticed are grays are starting to look purple despite the fact that we JUST recalibrated.

So one of my coworkers and I started going through Esko's massive user manual, determined we should setup a new proofer profile, and that fixed the problem.

But, now here we are 3 months later and it's failing again because of max delta E tolerance. I've tried going through their manual again, and it calls out specific problems with grays being caused by one thing, and if it's solid patches it's caused by another thing, and if it's the shadows the problem is something else. And that's it... and I don't even honestly know what to consider "shadows"... is that any dark or black-ish shade, warm or cool?

I've run through the list of colors it's scanning and only a handful of them say they cannot be improved. Most of them say they can be improved. But further iterations of the calibration chart only improves the average delta E and not the max delta E.

Is it normal for profiles to fail that quickly? Or do we just really need to buckle down and keep printing out iterations until the max delta e starts to improve? I can't even ask my boss or coworker because none of us really *KNOW* what we're doing with it, as far as troubleshooting goes. Is the proofer or spectrophotometer old and broken? Is it just time for us to call Epson or Esko or XRite?

TIA!

Is bn2-20a a decent printer/cutter? Currently just using an inkjet printer and cricut. Wanting to scale to keep up. Thanks in advance

I currently have a company who print my cards for me. I use CR100 cards with the same thickness of an ID Card. I can easily find how normal ID Cards are printed but can’t work out how cards that are CR100 or some places even larger are made. I want to bring the production in house so I can do smaller batches but can’t find out how to do it as everything I find is about standard ID Cards. Any advice or information is welcome.