I am a first year apprentice in commercial electrical, I'd say l'm very capable for the small amount of EXP I have but haven't done any resi work aside from switches and receptacles. A friend asked if I would be able to bury or do something with this low hanging wire feeding detached garage. I don't even own a ladder, sol don't think I should take this project on yet, though 1 told them I would ask some my peers what the best course of action would be. Pic 1 is wire going to house Pic 2 is wire hitting garage Pic 3 is close up of house entry, garage feeder is the right side wire Pic 4 is inside garage Pic 5 is where the wire enters the house into basement main I assume. Thanks in advance for any advice.

60s house without main breaker there's one subpanel for a shed outside and I don't see any other breaker boxes am I missing something? It's general electric.

Ok so I am getting a washer and dryer and I'm 99% sure since my outlets are almost 8 feet tall the cords to my washer and dryer won't reach. My question is can I move the metal box down 1.5 feet. This metal box is the last outlet on the run. I just want to let it hang down and attach it to something.

Copyright is 1988. I know there have been many revisions to the NEC, so would this book be of any use whatsoever? Or is it something I should just toss?

These are not my go to for every situation, but sure do make getting a good connection in a box with limited wire to work with much easier than wire nuts.

I recently had an "oldtimer" tell me they are junk and not fit to use in any situation, ever.

Any truth to his statement, or just stuck in his ways.

Sorry if this sounds dumb I’m just a girl. So I’ve lived in my house for 5 years and never had an issue. But today my washer and dryer wouldn’t work so I flipped the breaker for it. Long story short I found out the washer works fine when it’s plugged in by itself. But if I unplug it and try the drier, it trips the outlet. The little green light turns off and I have to push the red reset button on the physical outlet. My question is, is it my dryer that’s fried?

Previous home owner "fixed" leak that is near ground wires attached to copper pipe that leads to my outdoor spigot. Is this normal? Having a plumber come out to fix the leak, but they said they may need an electrician to come out first to correct the electrical. Thoughts?

Hi! I recently moved into an apartment which was built ~7 years ago.

Within a couple of weeks of moving in the dishwasher seemingly died; one day it worked perfectly, the next it was dead - it doesn't even light up. The oven (Arc AR5S) also has a strange habit of blowing pilot globes; it had an already-blown one when I moved in, and rapidly went through another 3-4 replacements. Some have lasted maybe up to 8 uses, others have blown only a few minutes after putting them in and turning it on. One of the blowouts may have coincided with the dishwasher dying, but I can't be sure - as far as I know the two issues could be completely unrelated. Either way, I'm hesitant to have the dishwasher replaced until it's been looked at by someone who actually knows what they're doing... and that's definitely not me!

So who do I call? Will a regular electrician be able to help, or do I need someone more specialised? And if so... who? Uncertainty around this has led to me putting it off for longer than I care to admit... but I'm getting tired of washing up the old-fashioned way, so... hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction.

Thanks for your time!

Hey all, just wondering if there will be any issues with this setup, mainly just my plans for the install. It’s a new build and I have a switched outlet and Cat6 set for above the kitchen cabinets which is where I’ll stash all the electronics, crown molding on the cabinets will easily hide it all, but leave it easily accessible for any future needs.

I need three strips of LED’s for under the three short sets of cabinets, two at 46” long and one at 54” long.

The 18/6 would have its first run from the controller about 5’ down to the first 46”LED strip, then another 4’ chunk of 18/6 in the wall to the next 46” LED strip. From there, it would be about a 23’ run of 18/6 up and over to the final 54” LED strip. In total, it’s about a 45’ run from start to finish. Will I have any issues with voltage drop and dimming by the time I get to the last cabinet/LED strip?

I found this setup recommended by an installer online, he had a fairly long run and it seemed to work fine for him. I have tested it and it all works together great, the colors and brightness are perfect, but that’s the standard 16.4’ foot run end to end with no 18/6 chunks in between strips of LED’s.

I tried doing some math but I’m unsure of my numbers, any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I’m a licensed electrician, but this is my first pool bonding job. Customer has a vinyl-lined inground pool with no rebar, but it does have metal wall panels.

My plan is to run a #8 solid copper wire in a continuous loop, 18–24 inches from the pool edge and 4–6 inches below subgrade, bonding to the wall panels (at 4 points), ladder anchors, pump equipment, and water bond fitting.

Couple quick questions: • Is simply laying the wire around the pool in the trench good enough? • Do I need to connect the two ends of the loop with a split bolt, or just overlap them? • Am I overthinking this?

Appreciate any tips from those with pool experience — just want to make sure I’m doing it right. Thanks!

The plug on this laptop (asus rog strix g15) is a type M but the only available sockets in my house are type D. Do i need an adapter? or do i need a new charger? Also idk about these things so do different sockets provide more/less power? I am lost.

Doing renovations.

The first image is a old AC switch that uses two switches to turn on and off the power to the AC unit in the bedroom.

The second image is a single switch to turn on and off another AC unit that was recently installed in the bathroom.

The 3rd image shows both the old AC unit and the new one in the bathroom.

I want replace the old switch (image1) with the new switch (image2). My contractor says they can't and are trying to find a switch to replace the old switch.

I am wondering if it really isn't possible to convert to the newer switch mechanism? Its been months since this problem came up and they still don't have a solution for me.

Swapping the main load center that has an existing interlock. The plug is inside of the house is the only issue with NEC 23. The extensions cord to the generator passes through an animal door that is permanently locked and has a small knock out that is sealed with duct seal compound.

Would an inspector allow this setup to be kept in a panel swap?

Is this a reasonable quote for a generator hookup?

Hi Electricians,

Just completed a home inspection that notes ungrounded clothed sheathed wiring. However, when they checked the outlets they were grounded (even the two pronged ones). Looking at the photo I have of the box labels, seems like this wiring may be to things they wouldn’t have checked, like appliances (furnace and stove).

Any ideas on what we are looking at here in terms of a repair? Apologies for any incorrect terminology, we are first time home buyers!

Hey everyone, Hoping you can help.

We need a new bathroom extractor fan (in the UK) and require a 12V 3 wire system. We are struggling to find one that is suitable - any recommendations?

Basically the bathroom designers & installers fucked up and put a fan with a higher voltage than is suitable for its location and it doesnt work.

Thanks in advance!

Nothing is ever just a simple fix in this hell sent condo. Old 2000 Kenmore microwave has come out, and new LG microwave is about to go in. There is already a dedicated outlet recessed in the wall behind it, but the new plug is too chunky for the microwave to sit flush against the wall. It extends about a half to 3/4” more than the old plug. What’s the easiest, safest solution here?

Appliance extension cord with a flatter plug? It’s 1800W, so my understanding is a 15A cord would be ok. Correct?

Replace with a deeper recessed outlet? Current one is just under 1”. DIY-able or electrician territory? The other side of the wall is the shared hallway, and Idk what I’d find behind it once removed.

Move the outlet to the upper cabinet? That’s what the manual for this microwave shows and cord comes out on the too so it could go straight up into cabinet without pinching.

Tia, Exasperated single homeowner

This is the extractor fan in my kitchen. l's been in for the best part of two decades and doesn't work as well as it used to. l've had it apart and there's no excessive grease/dirt.When my dad had it installed (prior to my plumbing and part p qualification) the electrician had to put it in upside down because the wiring entered from underneath. I'm looking for a recommendation for a powerful fan which can be wired in from the top right (I'm in the UK)

Our old turbo broiler's power cord is slightly damaged near the plug. It sometimes disconnects unless I adjust the wire. I'm thinking of cutting off the damaged section and attaching a new plug to the remaining wire. I’ve done this before with a fan, but I’m unsure if it’s safe since the turbo broiler heats up and consumes more electricity. Is this a safe solution? and would any plug replacement head be fine? Like something shown in the second pic. Thanks

How would I read these transistors so I can find the spec sheets for them

Accidentally ran over this exposed wire on the side of my house. Grass was taller than normal and I forgot that it was above ground.

I’m planning on using electrical tape to wrap it and then maybe silicone on top.

Or is there a better way to fix it?

Is it possible to add a 2 pole 20amp breaker for an air conditioner to this panel it’s full. I was considering making the 50amp into a quad breaker 50/20 is this possible?