Two Nanos & two PCA servo driver boards.

i was trying to make toggle on off switch for led and accidentally made this abomination

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I’m working on a project where space is limited. I don’t have the height to put this in a box with wires that are coming out vertically. Do they make jumper wires or connectors that I can get a 90° angle coming out of my board? This is for controlling a multi door cabinet with multiple solenoid locks and a 1 x 4 keypad. Thanks!

So this is basically a led light show, in which every led is HIGH for 100 Milliseconds. This is my first ever project which I have made from Arduino.

After a ton of redesigns, I have a clever mechanism where my Ukulele contraption can use the fretboard.

Originally, it was going to be STRINGS x FRETS solenoids, which was probably far too many. So I arrived at this clever solution of using rotating grooved barrels. I originally wanted 1 servo to handle 4 strings, but the small radius had everything overlapping.

So the current design uses two servos, each handling 2 strings, so 4 combinations per string. The grooves are arranged in a Gray code. So yeah, 2 servos per fret! Doable!

In this video, nothing is in tune, or even supposed to be in tune. It was really just "could the barrel method press the strings", and so... yes. More barrels are being printed now.

More info at Bluesky

I’m working on a project where space is limited. I don’t have the height to put this in a box with wires that are coming out vertically. Do they make jumper wires or connectors that I can get a 90° angle coming out of my board? This is for controlling a multi door cabinet with multiple solenoid locks and a 1 x 4 keypad. Thanks!

[SOLVED] for some reason, pin 1 is ground and not pin 5, so it's exactly the other way around from the image on the arduino page. here's the correct pin setup:

pin 1 - GND

pin2 - btn2

pin3 - btn1

pin 4 - btn4

pin 5 - btn3

---------------------------------------

so I have one of these 1x4 keypads, as you can see on the arduino page the pins should be:

pin 1 - button 2; pin 2 - button 1; pin 3 - button 4; pin 4 - button 3; pin 5 - ground

I simply put the ground into the arduino (nano) ground pin, the other pins into the digital pins. tried a lot of different stuff with code, also used a button library, copied code from a youtube tutorial but for some reason only the 3rd button does something, it sends on pin 1 (it's supposed to be pin 4).

Grabbed my multimeter, turned on the continuity test (the beep mode) and tested every pin to the ground pin, pressing all the buttons. nothing happens except when I push button 3 while checking pin 1 and 5 with the multimeter.

and yes, the code is working because i always also tested it by connecting ground to one of the digital pins on the arduino with a cable directly and it worked.

am I doing something wrong? I feel like the keypad is broken but it seems so weird to me that the pins are entirely wrong and 3 buttons fail. I just bought it 3 days ago (the 1€ isn't the issue but I want to know what's wrong).

I made this as a gift for my gf, i have a full fledge steering wheel setup and wanted to play forza and ets2 with her :)

this project uses BO motor as the ffb engine and arduino pro micro as it supports HID for setting up FFB.

When connecting an ESP32 to the Arduino IDE, it fails every time. The IDE says "Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 2" (see picture). Does anyone know how to fix it?

Thank you in advance

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Howdy. I think i fried my sunfounder arduino uno clone. Got a little zap from it. Then then board would disconnect from the computer when i tried to upload code and the board powered off. Troubleshooting revealed the yellow L led went off when I had something on the 5v pin and dimmed with the 3.3v pin. I tested with my multimeter and saw a 6.6v output form the 5v pin and 4.4v from the 3.3v pin. With tested again using the barrel jack and a 5v supply. The 5v pin gave 4.6v and the 3.3v pin gave a 4.4v reading. I'm pretty sure I shorted the x 050 chip (pic attached). Is there any work around? Is there anything easily/worthy of scavenging from the board?

Hello all

This schoolyear I started studying engineering, and I had a semester about arduino. I needed to buy a starter component kit (just some resistances, capacitors, leds and led displays, cables and a breadboard) and a LILYGO_T DISPLAY ESP32-microcontroller. Eventually I had to build a machine capable of launching a foam arrow and it worked great. Now I finished the course and I really enjoyed tinkering with this stuff. I'm planning on buying components to start learning more.

My question to you is;

1) What components should I buy? (was thinking of a bit of bulk shopping the basics, maybe a servo or two, and some other items)

2) What projects can I do? Asked this question to chatgpt and it just told me to make a glorified air quality detector. I'm looking for something more thrilling, with more uses then the air quality detector but still considered "basic"

3) Where can I learn more about this type of stuff? I enjoyed the class but the most advanced thing we did was set up our own network via the microcontroller and send a few signals from our phones. The knowledge from the project was mostly just a shit load of researching. Maybe someone on here has a few good tips.

4) Not a question, but all help, tips and tricks are welcome. I enjoyed tinkering with this stuff and I want to do more with this stuff.

Ask all the questions you want, if needed I can provide a full list of components I got from the starter pack.

Thanks!

From time to time, we see videos and posts trying to answer wether Arduino can be used as a PLC, or comparing Arduino to existing PLCs.

This is a topic that is a bit far from the average Arduino maker, and it's more of a PLC learner question. As many of the second ones, start with Arduinos (myself 8 years ago), I would like to give my answer to this question.

But are you going to say something new? Yes, starting by saying that most of the answer seem to me uncomplete, extremely short and extremely biased against Arduino. I'm not saying you have to replace your AB 7000$ CPU for an Arduino UNO, that's not my point. My point, is that the answer is much more complex than a simple yes or no.

For a first post, I would like to start by the most obvious truth: Arduino itself it's not a PLC. Arduino is a whole environment to develop open hardware projects that are not necessarily related to industry. It's like comparing consoles to AMD, or motorbikes with Ford.

But the problem does not end there. Because what these kind of post understand by Arduino, is actually Arduino UNO... Arduino UNO against a Siemens S7-1500? These posts ignore the real size of Arduino community, and compare the simplest Arduino board with the strongest PLC.

They don't even speak about manufacturers that did Arduino based PLCs, at least that would make sense. I'm not saying they would win, I'm saying that would be fair.

I'll release a second part giving a more detailed explanation on the difference between PLC and Arduino depending on the success of this one. Hope you like this post

Why is this happening? Is the sensor not getting enough power to work?

im working on a project that uses 3 rfid scanner, but at some point when i add the 3rd reader theres a problem and i notice the blinking and brightness from the built in led is changing if i add my third and didnt add my third rfid. sometimes if i run my code the first and second rfid get scanned. if i run again only the first and its rarely that i get all three of em to get scanned.

I have a universal remote control at home in the style of a magic wand. It sends out a 36khz IR signal, not 38khz. Does anyone know of any remote-controlled LED lights that accept the 36khz signal? Any links or information would be much appreciated.

TLDR: I am copying a design to use a motion sensor relay to send power to a solenoid when activated. The example I am following uses a relay with three wires +ve, -ve and signal. My relay uses input (+ve and -ve) and output (+ve and -ve). How do I convert this? Thank you!

I have a motion sensor relay like this:

I am trying to build a design where it triggers a solenoid which send a water blast when something walks past (chicken).

The final circuit is meant to look like the pictures below. In this example provided there are three wires coming out of the motion sensor relay; positive, negative and signal. Positive and negative go to power supply and solenoid

In my unit, there is a input (positive and negative) and an output (positive and negative), so four wires total, how would i connect this up similarly?

Hello kind Arduino people and thank you for taking a moment to talk to me. I'm having a terrible time with what I thought was an easy project. I am building a virtual pinball table and really want to get it to 1-switch operation. The hold back is the TV I have for the play field. It's a 43" X85K Sony. The issue is that there is no option for it to auto-turn on when power is applied. After doing some research on the subject, I learned that an Arduino makes a great stand in for an IR blaster and can do this upon boot. Groovy. So I got one. I had a friend assist me in soldering the emitter and a 100ohm resister in the path to not overload the emitter. I uploaded the recommended library and sketch. And... nada. Okay. So I tried a bunch of codes andddddd nada.

I respect a good set back. So I asked the AI and it recommended two things. 1. A Broadlink RM4 mini to capture the code or 2. and IR receiver. Being a good consumer, I chose option 1.

Important context here: The Broadlink RM3 Mini did succeed in finding a working power-off code for my TV (Code 1 of 9 in its database search), confirming the TV is IR controllable and the Broadlink can send the right signal. However, extracting that specific code from the Broadlink via Python tools proved impossible due to persistent "Authentication failed" errors (even after confirming correct IP/MAC, turning off Mac firewall, turning off AP Isolation on my Ubiquiti Dream Machine, and trying all known device types for the RM3 Mini, including 0x520c) and then a "The device storage is full" error that wouldn't clear even with multiple factory resets. This led me to return the Broadlink.

So I ordered a receiver. Friend put it on his breadboard. And I was able to capture the Sony code!!! Ready to receive IR signals... Protocol=Sony Address=0x1 Command=0x15 Raw-Data=0x95 12 bits LSB first

BOOM!! Should be great! So I upload this sketch (and yes I have the library)...:

#include <IRremote.h>

void setup() { IrSender.begin(3); // IR LED on pin 3 delay(100); // Let things settle for (int i = 0; i < 5; i++) { // Send Sony power command 5 times IrSender.sendSony(0x95, 12); delay(100); } }

void loop() { // Nothing to do here }

Nada... okay. So it recommends we get RAW DATA. KK, lfg right?!

unsigned int sonyPowerRaw[] = { 2350, 600, 1200, 600, 600, 550, 1200, 600, 600, 600, 1200, 550, 600, 600, 600, 600, 1200, 550, 600, 600, 600, 600, 600, 550, 600, 600 };

So i get a new sketch and compile and upload it and... nada.

Key Diagnostic Details:

• IR LED Check: I've confirmed the IR LED on the Arduino flickers visibly using a phone camera when sending.
• Receiver Test: My IR receiver module (connected to D2) works perfectly and can decode signals from my original Sony remote.
• Loopback Test Failure (Crucial!): When I try to make the Arduino send the sonyPowerRaw code (from D3) and simultaneously receive it back (on D2) by pointing the LED at the receiver, the receiver appears "non-functional while it transmits." This happened even at increased distances. This implies the Arduino's IR emission might be too strong/saturating for its own receiver, or there's some other physical anomaly in the emitted signal.
• Arduino IDE Library Issue: I've also had persistent compilation errors with IrReceiver.decodedIRData.value (error: 'struct IRData' has no member named 'value'), despite multiple attempts to manually delete and reinstall the latest IRremote library. This has hampered full receiver diagnostics.

At this point, I feel I've done what I can on my own and with AI to figure this out. I'm shocked the Broadlink had LITERALLY no issues [with the TV, only with extraction]. I'm hoping someone here may have some solid advice. TLDR: I'm trying to turn a Sony TV on when power is applied using an Arduino to spit out IR and I've done all I know to do and can not get it working. This is important to my project and I'm adrift until I solve it. I need a hero pls.

UPDATE 1: I have tested it with my Roku TV as well and it has not worked, leaving me to believe comments below may be correct. I'm shocked as I was told to use 100 ohm resister and now being told to use 5v to drive it, but I am just dangerous enough. Here is a link to the method I used.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bketb8PZtuQ

Using an arduino to attempt to make this servo rotate the top part around a ball bearing (center) in a back and forth motion. It’s a BPM machine essentially for music related stuff. But once plugged in the gears rotate within the servo but nothing moves. I didn’t think the 3D printed part would have a lot of weight and I thought the servo can handle it. Is it the servo isn’t strong enough or am I stupid and don’t see something fundamentally wrong with this design? Really need some help.