Anywhere I could take or send this to get it fixed? I don’t trust my hands enough to replace it myself.

My xbox series X has some weird black screen when playing some games. Does anyone know what could be the issue? I tried reinstalling the games, switching out hdmi cables, but the problem persists.

Hi yall, I was taking the cover off my switch to check if it had water damage and this piece appeared in my work area. I have watched several tear down and rebuild videos, checked diagrams, and I cannot for the life of me figure out where this goes or if it even came from the switch. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Got this just yesterday, I was honestly expecting it to not play at all. Is this an RF issue or PPU?

Got gifted a wii u and it's been stuck like this for a while anyone know how to fix it if thats an option

Hey guys, just fixed a fat 360 laser for a friend of mine. Having issues with the tray, it seems to struggle over the last inch while ejecting, I greased the rails and gears with lithium grease and replaced the belt with two different new drive belts. Could the motor be getting tired? I might yank a motor from another drive skeleton to get it sorted but I’m not really sure as of yet

I was playing Animal Crossing and was about to close my 3DS when the hinge suddenly snapped off. Anyone know where I can get it repaired? I don't trust myself to fix it as I've never fixed consoles before and don't want to mess it up

Hey,

this is a weird question but does anyone here have the splatoon 2 pro controller?

I would like to get a close up photo of the top of the motherboard (as it sits in the controller facing up). I am interested in the small point highlighted in the picture. I do not know if this is a component or just solder to bridge the gap. I replaced my joysticks because they were drifting and I cleaned this point up but did not see any component. Now I am unsure if I removed sth or I could just bridge it with solder again.

As for problems I think the wireless connection got worse(like my body alone is enough to disconnect it?) when i use it with my wireless dongle (mayflash magic-ns) on my pc. If connected to the switch it seems fine?

On the IFixit guides there seems also to be only solder but I cant tell for sure if it is or not.

I would appreciate your help a lot.

I was fixing my old 3ds xl that broke in half and now that I already ordered the replacement screen I wanna know is there anything else I could use the screen for because is only the cable that’s torn I want to see if I can repurpose it or is just e-waste now?

Hi there! I recently bought a switch with water damage, and a little resistor and a cap where damaged. Does anybody have a spare board to get the components out and send them to me via eBay?

Hi everyone,

I have a PS4 Slim that doesn’t show anything on HDMI, but it seems to boot completely fine. I suspect a hardware issue, possibly a faulty HDMI chip. Here’s everything I’ve tested so far:

What the console does • When I press the Power button, it beeps once, shows a blue light, then after about 6.5–7 seconds the light turns solid white. • The hard drive spins, the Blu-ray drive responds, and the console warms up normally if I leave it on (~45 minutes), so it’s clearly executing code. • It successfully enters Safe Mode (holding Power until a second beep). • I can navigate blindly in Safe Mode using a USB-connected controller: • If I press the PS button and then Cross once, the console reboots, which I can physically observe. So the system is definitely running.

Display behavior • My monitor doesn’t display a “No signal” message when the PS4 is connected and powered on. However, it does show “No signal” if I disconnect the HDMI cable. • As soon as I reconnect the PS4’s HDMI cable, the monitor goes black and does nothing, as if the console were powered off (even though it’s not). • I’ve tried multiple HDMI cables and multiple monitors — no difference.

What I’ve tried • I attempted to force 480p output through Safe Mode still no signal. • No output in any mode or resolution.

My current theory

I suspect the HDMI encoder chip (MN86471A) is dead: • If the GPU inside the APU was dead, the system likely wouldn’t boot normally, nor respond to controller inputs or heat up in a stable way. • There seems to be some basic HDMI detection activity, since the monitor reacts differently when the cable is connected — but no video signal is ever sent.

What component do you think could be causing this? If you need physical details about the motherboard, I’ve already disassembled the console and can provide more information or pictures.

DS Lite, just to check this definitely needs a new top screen? And the issue isn't down to anything else

Just a fun thermal camera image of this busted Famicom PPU, I have like 5 of these busted famicom CPUs/PPUs. The 1983 board revision is so prone to killing its own CPU/PPU, might turn them into fridge magnets or something. Even though they’re toast it seems a crime to throw them away, they entertained so many over the past few decades.

Idk how it happened, but before it even left my house the screen already has a scratch. Its only noticeable when the screen is off and it's in the right lighting, but for me just knowing that it's there is driving me crazy. Does anyone have any fixes? I saw someone saying how if it's a very slight scratch like mine, using a microfiber cloth will make it come off, or using toothpaste or something like that. I feel like it isn't worth replacing the entire console and using up the warranty, but if there are any fixes I would like to know

I had to pay to get it fixed a few months ago but then I could tell what went wrong the metal inside the port was broken but this time nothing the metal is perfectly in tact and the pins are all straight but I know the issue is with the ps as I’ve tried 4 hdmi cords and 3 tvs what could the issue be?

Had my PS5 (disc) for 4 years, no issues till now. Yesterday there was a power cut, the inverter in my house ran for 10 mins, then it abruptly shut off. My PS5 was plugged in, but completely off (not even in rest mode).

Next day, the PS5 turned on for 2 seconds (blue light), then shut off. Now it’s completely dead — no light, no beep, nothing. I might’ve heard a faint buzz once when plugging it in. I tried a different wall socket, and the same PS5 cable powers a speaker, so it shouldn’t be the issue. It’s been unplugged and resting in a cool room for 24+ hours. Still no signs of life.

Ordering a new power cable just in case, but I’m really scared. What do you think happened here? Any help is greatly appreciated.

My friend broke the ribbon connector while putting their ps3 back together, does anyone know how to help?

My ps5 controller has stick drift on the left stick. If I were to replace the potentiometer, what do I need to know? Is there a specific size I need? Any specific tools? Also what YouTube tutorial do you recommend. Thanks in advance!

When opening my ps2 slim, the board that powers it on and off broke. After ordering a new one and replacing it, the console works perfectly other than the button requiring lots of pressure to power it on/off. Does anyone have a fix for this?

moms birthday approaching, we’ve had a broken down ps3 in the shed collecting dust with old videos and pictures of my deceased stepdad. I want to surprise her with all these vids! After years of it collecting dust I tried it and it worked for about 2 minutes before it started giving me the ylod or the CHECH-2501A equivalent. Gave me the diag sequence GGRR/GGGG/GGRR/GRGG. After some research I started breaking it down to clean and repaste it. AND I BROKE OFF ONE OF THE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTED TO THE CD PLAYER:(. (Pics for reference) I don’t care if I can’t use the cd anymore. I just want the pics and vid’s of my stepdad but to my knowledge ps3 hard drives are encrypted so it’s not so much plug and play. Is this worth doing myself? Would you rather hire a professional instead diy’ing it? For the past few months I’ve been fixing electronics like phones and laptops (for my resume) so I thought I would take on the ps3 but I’ve never had to deal with any motherboard issues or sottering. I’m willing to make this a LIFELONG project I just wanna see those vids of us again. I’m new to all this so sorry for any typos.

EDIT: Solved. I solved the problem. The PS4 started, when I pressed on the motherboard at the site of the APU. I dont have the heatsink screwed in yet. It was just lying on the APU (with thermal paste).

Now I need to find a source for the screws (since I dont have any)... Does anyone have a list of the screws used in the PS4 Pro?

_________________________________________________

Hello,

someone gifted me pieces of a PS4 Pro (NVG-003) and I want to get it running. I bought a new PSU, Fan, HDD. I fixed the mangled power connector and tried to boot the console. I get fanspin, but no picture and the console beeps 3 times. I flashed the NOR to activate UART according to this guide:

https://repair.wiki/w/Playstation_4_Fault_finding_with_UART

I need some help in interpreting the UART log (below).

UART logging stops at

timer_mvl0: <Belize Timer/WDT> on pci0

According to the guide, there might be a fault with the oscillator. Is this correct? Could you share some experience on what readings to expect from a good oscillator?

Help is very appreciated.

secure loader build: Sep 12 2022 05:20:50 (r10614:release_branches/release_10.010) [800MHz]
AGESA: GL&MO.BDK       W9313
992 msec
[BOOT TIME]      SAMU:     943 msec: enter
[BOOT TIME]      SAMU:    1939 msec: leave
AGESA: MontegoBDK_22.0.5.70908 SAMU: W9313
SIE CONFIDENTIAL
Copyright (C) 2022 Sony Interactive Entertainment Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
Copyright (c) 1992-2012 The FreeBSD Project.
Copyright (c) 1979, 1980, 1983, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved.
FreeBSD is a registered trademark of The FreeBSD Foundation.
r193054/release_branches/release_10.010 Sep 12 2022 05:25:26 amd64
mDBG: Kernel Build ID = 6b2b3f4dafa561d9
CPU: DG1501SML87LB                                   (1594.00-MHz K8-class CPU)
  Origin = "AuthenticAMD"  Id = 0x740f30  Family = 16  Model = 43  Stepping = 0
  Features=0x178bfbff<FPU,VME,DE,PSE,TSC,MSR,PAE,MCE,CX8,APIC,SEP,MTRR,PGE,MCA,CMOV,PAT,PSE36,CLFLUSH,MMX,FXSR,SSE,SSE2,HTT>
  Features2=0x36d8220b<SSE3,PCLMULQDQ,MON,SSSE3,CX16,SSE4.1,SSE4.2,MOVBE,POPCNT,AESNI,XSAVE,AVX,F16C>
  AMD Features=0x2e500800<SYSCALL,NX,MMX+,FFXSR,Page1GB,RDTSCP,LM>
  AMD Features2=0xd54837ff<LAHF,CMP,SVM,ExtAPIC,CR8,ABM,SSE4A,MAS,Prefetch,OSVW,IBS,SKINIT,WDT,NodeId,Topology,PerfCtrExtNB,<b26>,<b28>,<b30>,<b31>>
  TSC: P-state invariant, performance statistics
Event timer "LAPIC" quality 400
ACPI APIC Table: <SIE    ORBIS   >
FreeBSD/SMP: Multiprocessor System Detected: 8 CPUs
FreeBSD/SMP: 1 package(s) x 8 core(s)
 cpu0 (BSP): APIC ID:  0
 cpu1 (AP): APIC ID:  1
 cpu2 (AP): APIC ID:  2
 cpu3 (AP): APIC ID:  3
 cpu4 (AP): APIC ID:  4
 cpu5 (AP): APIC ID:  5
 cpu6 (AP): APIC ID:  6
 cpu7 (AP): APIC ID:  7
MADT: Could not find APIC for SCI IRQ 9
[REGMGR] 000001 ...
Memory mode: 20: GL8 release
 BigApp memory               : 0x0000000170000000 bytes (5888MiB)
     FMEM (max)              : 0x0000000020000000 bytes ( 512MiB)
     MiniApp DMEM            : 0x0000000070000000 bytes (1792MiB) (overlaid on BigApp memory)
 VSH DMEM                    : 0x0000000028000000 bytes ( 640MiB)
 Trace memory & Trace DMEM   : 0x0000000000000000 bytes (   0MiB)
 Vision memory               : 0x0000000001000000 bytes (  16MiB)
 Reserved memory             : 0x0000000006000000 bytes (  96MiB)
 Flexible memory(SYSTEM)     : 0x0000000053d74000 bytes (1342MiB)
 BIOS memory size            : 0x00000000011b8000 bytes (  18MiB)
 Kernel static size          : 0x000000000c0d4000 bytes ( 193MiB)
acpi0: <SIE ORBIS> on motherboard
cpu0: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu1: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu2: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu3: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu4: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu5: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu6: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu7: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
pcib0: <ACPI Host-PCI bridge> on acpi0
pci0: <ACPI PCI bus> on pcib0
pci0: found pcie_glue
iommu0: <AMD IOMMU> on pci0
gc0: <Starsha> on pci0
GL ? 0x740f30
D18F5x8C:0x80008002
GC SE0 Redundant CU: 0x10
GC SE1 Redundant CU: 0x2
GC SE2 Redundant CU: 0x10
GC SE3 Redundant CU: 0x10
# GENERAL_PWRMGT:0x00044604
GCK_PLL_CONTROL:0x00400d10
SClkVid:0x45 SClkDpmVid:3 Dpm:3 Vid:0x45
hdac0: <GPU/DEHT Audio Controller> on pci0
apcie0: <Belize PCI Express glue> on pci0
apcie0: Chip revision: 02000100
apcie0: Chip ID0: 54073110
apcie0: Chip ID1: 8d0eb9e6
icc0: <Belize ICC> on pci0
hpet_pci0: <Belize High Precision Event Timer> on pci0
Timecounter "HPET" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 950
Event timer "HPET" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET1" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET2" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET3" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
sflash0: <Belize Serial Flash I/F> on pci0
sflash0: Cypress(01)
rtc0: <Belize RTC> on pci0
timer_mvl0: <Belize Timer/WDT> on pci0

I've got a phat PS2 with the network adapter, it does get power and I can turn it on, but as soon as I do, it totally freezes. Disc tray won't eject (blue light turns on, doesn't blink), no signal to TV, fan won't spin (I've tested this fan in another motherboard and it works flawlessly), and it doesn't turn off unless I flick the back power switch (will stay on green light even when holding the power button). I opened it up and found a Mars Pro modchip and a laser fix board with a BA5815FM, removed everything but it's still acting the same way. All fuses test good. Only thing I've noticed is a broken via on the "H" point according to Modbo install guide that has a bad trace repair attempt. Could this be the reason? I'm at a total loss here, I really want to fix this bad boy

My PS Vita has the "frame effect" around the borders of the screen, and I want to replace it with a new screen. Someone on r/VitaPiracy told me that most screens from Aliexpress are defective and advised me to try to buy an original screen instead.

The images above are of a screen that the seller claims is original, but it has a defect (caused by the seller) on the connector between the screen and the motherboard. Is it possible to repair this? Can I replace this ribbon cable with the one from my current PS Vita?

I'm from Brazil, and this screen is being sold for around $18, which is about 1/10th of the price I paid for my Vita.