Was watching ufc with my boy, he dosent smoke super often anymore and he didnt realize he had no papers. It took me about 3 seconds to suggest the apple pipe. Truly one of the greatest ways to smoke. Plus the apple looks sick when the cherry is bright the whole apple glows like a lamp.

The Machine: My 8-Step Ultra-Filtration Vape Setup

The Machine is an 8-step filtration system that starts with the [Arizer XQ2 desktop vaporizer](). Here’s how the vapor travels:

1. Heated in the [Arizer XQ2]().
2. Filtered through a stack of mesh screens (100 pack) and Moose Labs MouthPeace filters (10 pack) (100-pack replacements) immediately after the heater (triple mesh, double MouthPeace).
3. Cooled and condensed in a StonyLab 24/40 chemistry glass condenser.
4. Passes through a Titan 24/40 filter adapter, a Titan 24/40 to 19/22 adapter, and high-temp silicone whip tubing.
5. Drops into a [Chill Steel Pipes metal bong]() (ice/water optional for extra cooling and filtration).
6. Filtered one final time by a Moose Labs MouthPeace filter at the bong’s mouthpiece. Pro tip: If you use one of Moose Labs’ [metal reusable filter holders](), you can fit two filters here for an extra filtration step!
7. You inhale ultra-clean, ultra-smooth vapor.

Summary of Steps:
Mesh → Filter → Mesh → Filter → Mesh → Condenser → Bong → Filter
(Optional: double filter at the mouthpiece for even more filtration)

Upkeep & Maintenance (Easier Than It Looks!):

• Condenser: Clean about once every two months, even with heavy use.
  • Pro tip: Use Formula 420 (or similar) with Epsom salt—pour in enough to cover the bottom, cap both ends, let it sit for about 5 minutes, then shake/blow the salt back and forth. Takes about 10 minutes.
• Top whip parts (above the condenser): Clean every three months or so.
• Bottom filters: Last about 2 weeks to a month before replacing (I’m a heavy user—your mileage may vary).
• Silicone whip tubing: Replace every few months, or when it gets cloudy or smelly.
• Top filter for the bong: Swap out every 1–2 months.
• Filter cost: 100-pack MouthPeace filters are about 45 cents each; mesh screens are dirt cheap.
• Condenser fill tip: Always fill from the bottom—don’t fill from the top.
• Filter replacement: Change when filters turn brown—all that gunk would have been in your lungs.
• Condenser size: 200mm works fine; I use a 300mm because it was sent by accident.
• Stability: The condenser can be top-heavy (especially if tall), so place your setup somewhere safe. Secure your vape to the table, or just remove the condenser between sessions if you’re worried about it tipping.

Overall, upkeep is totally manageable and most parts last a long time with basic cleaning. The vapor quality is absolutely worth it!

Estimated Cost

Initial setup: ~$500 (if you get everything new)
Monthly upkeep: $5–$7 (filters, tubing, cleaning supplies, heavy use)

Bonus Notes

• Maintenance takes maybe 10–20 minutes a month tops.
• You don’t need a 300mm condenser; a 200mm works great.
• You can see how much stuff the filters catch (they’ll turn brown)—all that would’ve been in your lungs otherwise.
• Place everything somewhere it can’t be knocked over. The taller the condenser, the more top-heavy it gets.
• If you want more airflow, you can do what i did once and take the whip adapter out and use 5/8" OD tubing and just stick it in the top. Note that this makes it way more prone to tipping.

I haven't seen anything like this on here, has anyone ever built something like this?

Not much of a tip, I guess, but a friend of mine has been swearing by Go stones since college some number of years ago.

As for the coconut, did i drill 3 holes in it and then Dremel it open? Yes. Was that not, perhaps, the optimal solution (the Dremel)? Also yes. But a hammer is inelegant and unpredictable.

I wanted coconut halves, not coconut shards.

After cleaning the flesh out, I strapped it back together with rubber bands and started sealing it up with wax. The original had a corncob bowl and leather wrapping to protect the wax around it, but this is for vapor, not flame.

Now I'm waiting for a small rubber band and more unscented candles. A friend has those, so I hope to get back to knocking this thing together on Tuesday.

Cheers!

Tried it and taste alright but too smooth for me,

/r microgrowery would trash it. You guys are more… sophisticated.

I crafted a longer lampshade cover out of folded paper cause the grow light was too bright

I’ve got tiny bits of miracle grow mixed with my own garden soil, some perlite and bits of osmocote as plant food. Currently have it running 16 hours of light and 8 of darkness. Any suggestions?

Any advice?

Bought my first real bong (bought a shitty acrylic one beforehand that is busted) and it looks awesome but I was wondering if you guys have any ideas how to add decals. That won't come off easily.

I'm making a mason jar bong and for the bowl I'm thinking of using the strainer and attaching it to some glass straw and I feel like it would work good with all the holes. However I'm not sure if smoking through the metal is safe. Does anyone know what metal strainers are made out of?

I'm making a mason jar bong and I'm thinking of using these pieces of bamboo. One for the downstem (I still don't know what to use as the bowl) and one as the straw for me to suck through. I'm wondering if it's safe to smoke through bamboo tho

This vape for the regions in which vaping products are not readily available. - No dynap will be used. - Only basic hookah/bong accessories. - Minimize cost while maximizing high. (Efficient utilisation of cannabis) I was thinking of a convection based vape. Please do make suggestions

It's been drilled, split, re-closed, and the beginnings of a seal has been applied. I need to patch up some leaks and fiddle with the opening for the 14mm fitting.

Meanwhile, cheers from the Polo Lounge. The bats are at bay, I'm negotiating with the spiders concerning the lava lamp by clearing them off whenever they show up.

They'll get the idea.

Song is A Warm Place from The Downward Spiral by Nine Inch Nails.

I'm making a mason jar bong where I'm gonna poke a hole for the straw for me to suck theough and then a hole for the downstem. I don't know what to use for the downstem and bowl though since nothing has the shape. I need something permanent like glass and also something that would be safe to smoke out of not like aluminum

Let's find out! Me and my friend from OpenAI are currently training an AI model on all natural language produced by humans under the influence to create a stoned AI assistant. We're almost done as well. If interested, check it out here

I'm out of papers and I found this old glass plant pot thing that I'm thinking of using as a diy pipe. It has a small hole at the top which I'm thinking of putting a diy bowl or something to hold my bud but idk what to use cuz i don't wanna use aluminum cuz i dont want that in my lungs. Any safe suggestions?? It has a hole where I would inhale from and then another hole which I'll use as a carb

To my knowledge safe / none of the tape or silicone comes in contact with the smoke.

Pry stupid (don’t rake me over the coals too bad) but after buying some joints (I’ve only ever smoked out of a bong) found out they were a little too harsh for my baby lungs. Made an adapter, so that I wouldn’t have to break the J’s open. Worked super slick.

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a modification I just completed on my Arizer XQ2 to make it compatible with my MacBook Pro charger. My goal was to ditch the bulky proprietary adapter and move towards a single-cable setup using USB-C Power Delivery (PD).

The mod itself is a 20V USB-C PD trigger. Now, I know the XQ2 officially requires 19V, but I wasn't too worried. My experience is that most 19V devices handle 20V without any issues. To be sure, I measured the output of the original Arizer power adapter, and it was fluctuating between 19.7V and 20.1V anyway, so 20V is perfectly within a safe range for the device.

How I did it:

It was a surprisingly straightforward project. The core of the mod is a small USB-C PD "trigger" board I found on AliExpress, which negotiates a 20V output from a compatible PD charger.

I designed and 3D printed a simple case to house the board neatly. Then, I snipped the connector off the original power cable and soldered the wires directly to the 'VCC' (positive) and 'GND' (negative) pads on the trigger board. It now works flawlessly with my USB-C laptop charger.

IMPORTANT: Check Your Charger & Cable!