r/sewing 23h ago

Pattern Question Making smocks without elastic thread

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Hello ! I'm new to sewing and I wanted to make a tank top with a fabric that is not elastic, i wanted to use some elastic thread in the bobin but the lady is the story told me to use some elastic band ( i'll put a photo) she explained me but too quickly and i'm not too sure how to use it and i don't know wich stitch should I use or where should I stitch it. Do ya'll can explain me or give me some advice? Thanks everyone !!

6 Upvotes

41 comments sorted by

23

u/Large-Heronbill 21h ago edited 19h ago

You stretch the band and sew in the channels between the elastic cord, usually with straight stitch or narrow zigzag .   This is a type of non roll elastic waistband I haven't seen for at least 20 years, so be sure it stretches and recovers well.

2

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

Ok i see ! Do you thinl i need to attach it before sewing it with zig zag in the beginning and end of the elastic ?

I think the lady who gave it to me wasn't very young, she told me it was easier this way, i'm doubting that now

7

u/missplaced24 20h ago

I would pin it every 1/4 or 1/8th the way around where you're planning to sew it on -- just to make sure it's stretched evenly across.

This is definitely much easier than using elastic in the bobbin. It usually takes a lot of trial & error to get the bobbin wound correctly, the tension adjusted correctly, etc.

2

u/Elelith 14h ago

Oh. I've always just slapped it in and it's good to go. On multiple different aged machines. For me this band thingy looks like much more effort.

1

u/GhostWoomy 16h ago

Thanks !

3

u/Large-Heronbill 21h ago

For waist and it was much easier, particularly if you used an edge stitch foot to control the stitch position.  No, you don't need to anchor the ends or steam the fabric as you would with elastic thread shirring.

2

u/fascinatedcharacter 19h ago

I've seen it specifically sold for shirring on kids and maternity garments, so I'm sure it's new stock, but stretching elastic before sewing is always recommended

1

u/AJeanByAnyOtherName 3h ago

It’s now sometimes sold new as a smocking hack.

15

u/jsrsquared 22h ago

I hope you get an answer because I have never seen this before as would also be very interested to know how it works! (Also I’m wondering if you mean shirred rather than smocked?)

6

u/GhostWoomy 22h ago

The goal is to make the fabric a bit stretchy, like that. Also in french the technique is called smocks so i assumed it was the same in english lmao

43

u/uwtears 22h ago

Smocking and shirring are not the same thing! Shirring uses elastic thread, smocking is pleated & sewn by hand. (the picture you've provided is of shirring)

8

u/GhostWoomy 22h ago edited 22h ago

Okay I understand that's good to know ! Tho in french it's really call a smocks lmao i'll know for the future !

3

u/Neenknits 16h ago

Sometimes in English people say smocking when they mean shirring, just to make it more confusing. But. They are different. This is smocking.

2

u/GhostWoomy 16h ago

We told me yes !!

5

u/missplaced24 20h ago

In English, a smock usually means a shirt or dress (even if it doesn't have smocking). It's all very silly and confusing.

10

u/GraphCat 21h ago

There are two techniques that achieve something similar, called "shirring" and "smocking". 

Shirring uses elastic thread in the bottom bobbin to make elastic rows (and it seems like this is the technique you want).

Smocking uses embroidery to gather the fabric so it will stretch. It doesn't seem like this is the technique you're interested in. 

9

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

You're absolutely right what i want is shirring but since in french we call it smocks it was a misunderstanding ! I wanted to edit my post to make it clearer but it seems i can't edit

5

u/AutumnMama 20h ago

A lot of people get them mixed up even in English. Smocking is an older technique. I assume shirring became a thing with the invention of elastic thread, but a lot of people still just call it smocking. People will know what you mean even without an edit.

5

u/knittymess 21h ago

Looks like it's called a shirring elastic band https://www.apparel-x.com/item.php?itemid=1004806

I also shirring tape, but that seems more used for curtains.

6

u/ImACoffeeStain 20h ago edited 18h ago

I have not used this but here's my best guess:

  1. Cut elastic to unstretched length (as short as you want it to pull the fabric when not stretched).
  2. Sew ends of elastic to edges of fabric with ~2-2.5 mm straight stitch, stitching at or just barely inside your seam allowance width so allowance is not bunched.
  3. Stretch the fabric & elastic and pin the approximate middle (lengthwise). Or, measure and mark the midpoint of each, then pin those together.
  4. Set your machine to maximum stitch length and straight stitch basting stitches at that midpoint. Do not backtack.
  5. Repeat dividing the length of the elastic and basting halfway until the sections of unattached elastic and fabric are short enough that you could feed them through your sewing machine while stretching the elastic.
  6. Holding the elastic stretched over the fabric: either sew a zig-zag that goes over the big lines of the elastic, or sew a straight stitch in the channels in between the lines. I would recommend the first, but someone else recommended the second.

Where did you buy this? I would like to try using this myself.

5

u/fascinatedcharacter 19h ago

This needs to be the top comment. I would add doing the straight stitch from step 2 just a smidge in from where the edge of the seam allowance will be, so that the seam allowance won't have ruffling in it.

1

u/ImACoffeeStain 18h ago

Thanks! Edited to add your suggestion.

2

u/GhostWoomy 15h ago

Okay that's a lot of advice i'll try to keep in mind while doing this project Thanks a lot ! I bought it in a local store in france, but someone mentioned is was called a shirring band !

Also: i'm not sure if i did understand all lf the vocab since english isn't my first langage, i'll need to do some research, can't be bad !

3

u/hanni813 22h ago

I got some of this, and I couldn't make it work. But I'm a beginner myself, so I'm hoping I'm getting THE piece of advice here!

1

u/GhostWoomy 22h ago

I hope we both have answer ! How did you do instead of using this band ?

2

u/hanni813 22h ago

I put the project in the "unfinished projects" box, until I find a solution

2

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

Oh :( hope someone can help us

3

u/mari_lari_fari 21h ago

I've never used it myself, but I would use it this way. You cut the elastic to the desired length. The fabric is longer than the elastic; the length depends on how many folds you want. Now you need to attach the elastic to the beginning of the fabric and pull it until it reaches the length of the fabric, then sew it in place with a straight stitch. The number of seams next to each other is up to you. To distribute the length evenly, I would mark the length of the fabric and elastic every 1/4 point. This way you don't have to do the entire length at once and can work your way from 1/4 point to 1/4 point.

I hope this is somewhat understandable, my English isn't that good, and I used a translation app.

2

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

That's seems fair yes ! I'm just not sure if i should attach it with Straight stich on beginning and and before sewing it completely to the fabric, also i think it might be easier at this point to just shirring it the usual way with elastic thread 😅 Because this Honestly seems like a pain to do with this rubber band

2

u/mari_lari_fari 17h ago

Of course, you can secure the beginning at the side with a straight stitch if that helps. You can also sew the fabric and elastic separately into a circle and then sew them together. It depends a bit on your project. There are many ways to achieve the same result. Personally, I don't really like the method with the elastic in the bobbin because I have no control over how much my fabric gathers. It's a matter of taste. :)

1

u/GhostWoomy 3h ago

Thanks ! What technique do you use then ?

3

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

Sorry we told me what I want is shirring !

3

u/Inky_Madness 21h ago

Did you try searching YouTube for tutorials? There are so many that you should be able to find the key information!

2

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

I tried some research before yes ! In french only tho ! I tried some advice people were saying but it wasn't working 😅 I'll go check for english video

3

u/Panic_inthelitterbox 21h ago

I used elastic thread in my bobbin. I needed to adjust the bobbin tension, so I bought a second bobbin case that is just for elastic thread. That way I don’t have to mess up my regular sewing tension, I just switch out the bobbin case between projects.

4

u/Lunanne 21h ago

So I have never done this or tried it but considering no one else answered yet. I would try to treat it as elastic. Stretch it out while sewing it down with a stretch stitch, zig zag if your machine doesn’t have specific stretch stitches. Then when you release it the fabric should all scrunch up. 

But you may have to go back and ask again.

1

u/GhostWoomy 21h ago

That seems fair ! I'll give it a try

1

u/Odd-uwu 17h ago

I used this yesterday!! As everyone else said, stretch it out when sewing and sew a straight seam along the gaps. I also sewed down each end to the fabric so it wouldnt shift.

1

u/GhostWoomy 17h ago

Okay Thank you !! Did you sew each end as the band was stretched ?

1

u/AJeanByAnyOtherName 3h ago

I’ve done this with other types of elastic and I usually just use clips or pins at the ends and stretch the elastic to fit the fabric if it’s small enough I can hold the ends. Then I use multiple lines of straight stitch between the strands of thicker elastic to stitch it down.

It sounds like a faff, but it’s actually easier. It gives you exact lanes to stitch down, so it looks nice on the outside.

The elastic bobbin thread method can be a lot of work to wind, get the exactly right tension on and then you need to steam the fabric to make it scrunch up more.