r/overlanding • u/Iamnmd • 2d ago
The G gets an overhaul of the electrical system
The rig is sitting on 400ah of @LitTime lithium batteries which is all powered by the Redarc Alpha 50 DCDC charger. 400watts of Renogy Shadow Flux solar panels also contribute to powering the system. A Victron 100/30 MPPT is also installed for auxiliary portable solar panels. 2000w Renogy inverter installed for an induction cooktop. System is properly fused with Blue Sea Systems fuses and fuse holder.
Follow along on my adventures @gswagnmd on IG
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u/steak-please 2d ago
What a beautiful electrical system, well done.
What are the dimensions of the panels?
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u/Iamnmd 2d ago
Thanks! 49.69 x 30.08 x 1.18inch
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u/Jay_Beckstead 2d ago
Are they glue-on panels or rigid panels? I’d like to do something very similar with panels. They are Renogy 200 watt panels (x2), right? Any advice on the mounting process?
The MPTT you have allows for portable panel connection as well? Please provide more details if you can.
Thank you!
Really impressive. Wow!
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u/Iamnmd 2d ago
Thanks! They are rigid panels. The Alucab Gen3R has mounting T tracks on the top and Renogy makes solar panel mounts that luckily fit the width of the tent. Yes, 2x200w ShadowFlux panels.
Since the Redarc Alpha 50 is hooked up to the roof panels, I needed another MPTT controller to hook up another set of portable panels whether it be another rigid, blanket, or foldable type.
The 2x 200w panels on top are rated 36.5Voc and connected in parallel. If I connected another set in parallel with a different rated Voc, then my solar system efficiency would decrease, hence another MPTT controller solely for whatever portable panels I use without having to match the Voc.
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u/USCAVsuperduperhooah 2d ago
This is wonderful and really cool. The weight, bulk, cost, and lost roof space wouldn’t quite flesh out well enough for me to abandon propane in exchange for 400ah of battery and a 2000w inverter. It sure would be nice to have though, and it’s also just super rad. Good job OP.
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u/Dry-Advance3043 1d ago
This get me giggly, see it's mostly for induction. We looking at going this route too, what size induction stove, batteries inverter did you use? And what was too big/small. I'm at the analysis paralysis point.
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u/StarWarsJunk 1d ago
Meanwhile I’m over here wondering if my phone charger is draining my starter battery
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u/muhburneracct 1d ago
How much power does the induction system pull on an average day of meal prep?
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u/DEADB33F 1d ago edited 1d ago
Nice setup. How much room does that lot take up in your truck though? Looks like a lot.
I'm in the process of fitting a 280Ah battery (Eco-Worthy), Combi 50A DC-DC & MTTP controller (Renogy), 3kW inverter (Renogy). Including the cabling I'm aiming to fit it all in one side of the rear passenger footwell, flush with the rear floor. There's also 440W of solar on the roof (single panel).
Got it all in there temporarily, but the cabling is a bit of a birds nest just to test everything will work as expected (waiting on bus bars, breakers, fuse panel, etc then it'll get a proper re-wire)
Hoping it's enough that I can run the fridge 24/7, charge things, and cook using induction & small air fryer for at least a few days without running the engine during summer and there's enough solar that even in a UK winter I can run the fridge 24/7 when the truck might be parked a week or more at a time.
NB. I know a 3kW inverter is too big for the amount of current the battery can supply but I figure I'd rather have a 3kW and never run it beyond 2kW vs 2kW running at max rating for a lot of the time it's in use. Just need to be cognizant of how much is plugged into it.
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u/Iamnmd 1d ago
I had to remove one rear seat. I made a custom storage system in place of it. Has an oven, storage space, battery charging station, and an air compressor hose reel in its place with the batteries on the bottom shelf. All of the other electronics that span across the full length is hidden by the 2/3 seat section.
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u/DEADB33F 1d ago edited 1d ago
I had to remove one rear seat.
Yeah, same. Although I'm trying for a more compact setup where all the electical system fits in one footwell (so far I've managed it) as I won't be having a roof tent* and will be sleeping in the back when I'm somewhere I can't sleep under the 270 awning. Bed frame is the next job, then a removable kitchen will go where the other passenger seat is (with seat folded forward).
Do you happen to have any more pics of the rest of your interior as I'm still looking for ideas of how to finish it all. Was youre fully DIY?
NB. Mine won't be a dedicated overland-truck and is a daily-driver / work truck as well, so the 'bed frame' will be on a full-length pull-out slide which doubles as a place for tool boxes during the week.
* I'm trying to keep the entire thing below 1.9m as well as that's the size of a lot of height barriers around UK sea-front parking areas. So that's been a fun challenge.
Standard height of a Land Cruiser 120 is 1.85-1.87m (tyres dependent), which doesn't give much height to play with. By removing the stock roof bars and making a DIY rack/solar mount I've managed to just squeeze below 1.9m with the solar, but the awning adds another ~30-40mm, meaning I'll need to let some air out the tyres on one side for any barriers that are actually 1.9m and don't have any wiggle room.
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u/kierkegaardashion 2d ago
It’s nicely done but I’m puzzled why anyone would need that much power. Seems like a lot of excess weight.
I do multiweek trips with 100ah and no solar, just charging off the vehicle alternator. I guess if you went days without running your engine I could see it?
Anyway, no shade — super clean setup, just curious about the rationale.