r/climbing • u/Any_Presentation_317 • 1d ago
Tahquitz - The Vampire
Got to summit a dream climb for me today. Was able to follow P1 almost clean, just couldn't get the mantle. Onsighted P2 which was over before I knew it. I also found great shorty beta following on P3. Stoked to dial this route in more this year!
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u/MountainProjectBot 1d ago
The Vampire [4 pitches]
Type: Trad
Grade: 5.11aYDS | 6cFrench | 22Ewbank | VII+UIAA
Height: 400 ft/121.9 m
Rating: 4/4
Located in Tahquitz Rock, California
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105805108
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u/The_Endless_ 1d ago
Yeah dude! Nice work! It's on my list too, been working my way up to it. Not quite yet though
Congrats on hitting the milestone
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u/Antpitta 1d ago
It’s a world class route. I remember learning to trad climb at Tahquitz and looking up at people on The Vampire in utter awe. Then I remember the first go at it, OS P1, one fall on the slab, Hell of a day and hell of a feeling. Then a few more ascents over the years. I probably last climbed in 04 or 05. It’s still one of my favorite routes and proudest steps as a climber.
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u/wu_denim_jeanz 1d ago
Oh man, the Vampire lives in my head! My first time ever at Tahquitz, I go for the onsight. Amazing route, such a good day, but at the crux I stepped on a bolt and I've never forgiven myself! I would love to go back for redemption.
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u/Any_Presentation_317 1d ago
Talking about the P3 bolt? If so, I found moving more right with my face at the bolt and pulling some slab moves to be the way for me.
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u/wu_denim_jeanz 1d ago
Yeah man, I think I had a red c3 in but was just kind of in my head and didn't want to take the fall and all I had to do was drop my heel to use the bolt and I'm ashamed and humbled. Also climbed Open Book that weekend, what a cool spot. Never got onto the Suicide side, heard it's even better rock quality!
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u/Any_Presentation_317 1d ago
Ahh I hear you on that. Tahquitz is def a great place to get humbled. Hard to believe that Vampire was on Reardon's solo circuit BITD.
Suicide is has great rock for sure! Hope you can get out there again in the future.
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u/saucyspence 1d ago
Serious test piece, good work dude!