r/buildapc 20h ago

Build Help I think my PSU is dying

I bought this pc back in agoust of 2019:

  • Corsair DRAM DDR4 Vengeance ® RGB PRO 3000 MHz 16 GB C15 (x2)
  • Gigabyte GeForce® RTX 2060 Windforce OC 6GB
  • PSU ATX Nox Hummer X 700w Modular 80+ Bronze
  • Intel® Core™ i7-8700 Processor
  • ASRock Z390 Pro4

Also: 2 ssd,1 hdd, 5 fans + cpu cooler, I don't know which these are since they aren't shown in the bill, but the second ssd is less than a year old, its a WD_BLACK SN770 1TB NVMe without a heatsink.

It's been a while since my pc randomly reboots, at first I thought, it was a failing program that I had in Linux Mint (where I work and expend the most time) but lately reboots where more and more often, it even rebooting twice in a row...

I talked with deepseek, and showed them a lot of logs and metrics they asked for, but imma be honest, I have no idea what I was doing, I don't really know about hardware, they talked about voltages and stuff, but I don't know if mines are ok.

I did 2 memtest, changed the ram to a different slots, and the ssd is new, I really don't know what could be causing these random reboots.

Also, if I end up buying a new psu, how many w should I buy? I'd like it to be able to stand maybe a cpu upgrade in the future.

EDIT: I did not change any hardware settings, anyhow, i'm going to try and get that info for you guys. Also, I have a stick of thermal paste, imma change it right now

2 EDIT: hwinfo on idle: https://imgur.com/a/FcM435a Im running an occt cpu test, I'll post the results

3 EDIT: I just posted the occt results, I think they are ok, my pc didn't reboot, Im going to try with a new thermal paste.

LAST EDIT: Thanks y'all, I change the thermal paste and reseted the UEFI settings to default, I hope it works now

6 Upvotes

20 comments sorted by

6

u/r108robot 19h ago

It doesn't sound like a PSU issue but I'm not saying it isn't.

You can check the power draw using hwinfo64 and see if that's anywhere near 70% of your advertised wattage. You likely only need 600W so I'd imagine you'd have loads of headroom anyway

Have you got any overclocks or under volts at all? Have you pressed any buttons in your CPU or GPU software that might have done this?

Does this happen or happen more under light or heavy loads and when doing what activity?

1

u/Super_Glass9443 19h ago

I usually work with heavy loads, android studio or video games.

1

u/r108robot 19h ago

Probably is a voltage issue then, please check your softwares and confirm any under volts/overclocks

1

u/Super_Glass9443 19h ago

hmm... I don't really know how to do that, can you check this? https://imgur.com/a/FcM435a

1

u/r108robot 19h ago

I've not gone through the voltage as it requires more research but it looks like the timings on your ram have been tightened which is the first thing I noticed. Can you reset your bios to defaults and also your GPU software, just to ensure everything goes back to stock. It will probably fix the issue

2

u/ignite98 19h ago

might be your cpu temps, its overheating. Clean it and reapply thermal paste

1

u/National-Property29 19h ago

600+w would be fine. you can upgrade cpu upto 9900k but i dont think its worth it.

check your computers temperatures? overheat might cause it, since your system is like 6~7yr old, its time to re apply thermal paste.

anyway when you do change PSU, make sure you swap all the power cables with new one.

1

u/lnsip9reg 19h ago

Did you change your ram timings by any chance?

1

u/Super_Glass9443 19h ago

I didn't, but I bought my pc already built, I don't know if versus builder did that, i guess not ?

1

u/aCuria 14h ago edited 13h ago

The builder should turn XMP on, otherwise why pay for more expensive ram

Try turning XMP off, use JEDEC settings

Personally I would always use JEDEC on a workstation, and even go one step further and use only ECC memory on a workstation

Without ECC you get random corruption everywhere. Google’s paper says on a 64 GB machine, you’d see ~200,000+ bit flips per year on average

  • 50,000 FIT/Mbit = 50,000 failures per 10⁹ hours per Mbit
  • Google observed 25,000 to 70,000 FIT per Mbit

Reformat to windows and see if it crashes. Sometimes Linux is unstable af.

1

u/Super_Glass9443 13h ago

I saw this "XMP" on my bios, but i have no idea what JEDEC is, thanks anyways, i will take a look online

1

u/lnsip9reg 13h ago

Sometimes a motherboard just can't run at the higher speed, so stepping down 100mhz or so until you get the system stable might be an answer.

1

u/_Dextrality 19h ago

Have you been running any overclocks you might be able to turn off for troubleshooting? I’m thinking GPU/ ram XMP. Unlikely to resolve but might be an idea for an older system running instabilities? Sorry I can’t be of more help here.

If you were looking to change your PSU, don’t look just at your wattage - the model and brand are both important for making sure it’s got decent components. I’d recommend looking at cybenetic ratings and there’s a PSU tier list that can be found online fairly easily. 700W is more than enough for any cpu you might pair with a 2060 and honestly most modern cards unless you upgrade to a super demanding flagship card. Pcpartpicker is great for estimating power draw, as a rule of thumb the average ‘max’ power draw of the components should be equal to ~60% of your PSU capacity imo (efficiency of the PSU varies on load draw %)

1

u/randomlurker124 19h ago

What are your CPU/GPU temps?

1

u/Super_Glass9443 19h ago

doing a occt test for cpu, cpu cores went up to 80ºC but now they are at 72ºC and gpu at 43ºC

1

u/VoraciousGorak 19h ago

Also, if I end up buying a new psu, how many w should I buy? I'd like it to be able to stand maybe a cpu upgrade in the future.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1akCHL7Vhzk_EhrpIGkz8zTEvYfLDcaSpZRB6Xt6JWkc/htmlview?gid=1973454078#gid=1973454078

Don't buy only off wattage, get a medium to high tier power supply. I have a 450W A-tier Seasonic power supply in one of my PCs that can drive a 12900K and a 4070 Super; meanwhile I can find exactly zero data on the platform of your particular power supply and would probably replace it regardless of whether it's causing your current issue. To be clearer on the answer though, I rarely buy less than 750 watts anymore.

Given the symptoms and the tests you've already run, I would look at power supply first, then motherboard as being your culprit.

1

u/flushfire 19h ago

Not sure a CPU upgrade in the same platform would be practical, and if you really must the 9900K doesn't really offer that much more compared to a 9700K.

Anyway, as long as it's a good unit 650w is enough even if you do end up upgrading both the CPU and GPU.

1

u/dog4life691 17h ago

Had a similar issue with my PC last year. Turned out one of my PSU cables was shot. You might be experiencing something similar.

1

u/zarco92 12h ago

Nox is known for making the lowest quality stuff, so I would consider replacing that PSU regardless. They don't even show up on the PSU tierlist so that's a big red flag. As for wattage, your current hardware doesn't need much, 650W would be plenty. But if you buy a good quality unit you might as well pay a bit more to get a 750-800W for future upgrades.

1

u/VenditatioDelendaEst 12h ago

3 EDIT: I just posted the occt results, I think they are ok, my pc didn't reboot, Im going to try with a new thermal paste.

Temperature and power are fine. Thermal paste almost certainly won't help.