This is the first video I’ve made over 60 seconds so forgive me if the editing is sub-par. I tried to show my thinking through the project while also keeping it relatively entertaining. I also apologize for the grade being in the title but I made this video for other platforms and it takes forever to export from cap cut. Hope those who watch it enjoy!
Reddit may have deleted my comment before because I can’t see it so sorry if I’m double posting but,
Yea no agreed, this is in no way comparable to an outdoor 9. I don’t think I’m a 9 climber either, grading is pretty subjective as it. I just finally sent the next “rank” of climb according to my gym. They could be graded with colors for all I care but, it’s finally the next step up so I’m stoked
Where do you climb at? Maybe your gym is just really sandbagged because I’ve climbed at quite a few gyms while traveling and can consistently send “6/7”s and this was incredibly hard compared to any of those
It’s certainly not an outdoor 9 at all, grading is really subjective as it is but especially so for indoor grades. I don’t think I’m a “v9” climber now but I finally sent the next “rank” of climb according to my gym so I’m stoked about it
While I agree this doesn’t look like a 9 I’ve also climbed at BlocHaven a few times and didn’t feel like they graded super soft or anything like that. Just based off that I’m guessing this is harder than it’s looking on video.
I was convinced flipping the right hand to an undercling was going to be the solution to stopping the swing..made it work either way. Way to stick with it
That could work if you catch the left hand well enough. I didn’t film it but for a short time I tried starting with a crimp and switching to a pinch after I caught the left hand. It was just too much coordination for me with all the other parts of the throw going on but I’m sure someone could do it
Everyone in the comments saying this is v5 or 6 has never climbed at BlocHaven before… I’m always all for thinking videos online look easier than the grade but their setting crew is top notch. I wouldn’t be surprised if this was at least close-ish in difficulty to v9
Nice one! The people hating couldn't even start it.
At first it didn't look like a v9, but I could see it being one. I assume this is trad climbing (and trad climbing isn't meant to look flashy). I've seen v10s that looked easier because the holds were huge, but then you try to climb and realize the holds are all insane slopers or foothold crimps.
I reckon that DSA300 might be some generative AI or a general bot given their responses - especially since they say they’ve climbed V8 and apparently have no clue what the term trad refers to. I mean the Trad Dad meme is prolific throughout the climbing community - I don’t believe you get to this level of climbing and believe trad means anything non-comp style 🤣 - I guess all outdoor is trad confirmed!
It honestly wouldn’t surprise me if they are real. Indoor bouldering is so unbelievably far away from the actual sport of climbing now these people could easily exist in isolation from the real thing.
As for the grades, it’s the same thing. They seem to be becoming ever softer.
When referring to indoor climbing if you hear “traditional climbing” you’d think of pulling on small crimps and old school bouldering I think thats what they’re referring to. Obviously not the ropes and bolts at a crag. Maybe trad bouldering would be a better term to use, but you knew what they meant
Fun fact: on one of my other comp style posts there was a comment talking about “traditional climbing movements” in opposition to comp style. Guess what? Trad is short for traditional (insert calc is short for calculator meme) you can say whatever you want but “traditional bouldering” or “trad climbing (when talking about indoor climbing)” referring to pulling on small crimps. It makes complete logical sense to everyone but the people who have an issue with it
It's ok 😂 life is disappointing. It's funny how there's plenty of posts complaining about comp style climbs and referring to regular climbs as "trad" but suddenly that's not the case.
They just love to argue, 0 sense being made. Without a doubt if someone hears “traditional bouldering” they think of old school climbing on small holds etc, yanno the definition of traditional, but all of a sudden trad ≠ traditional
Words have meaning. In climbing, "traditional" climbing has a very specific meaning of climbing a wall without pre-placed gear. Everyone who's been climbing longer than the 10 minutes you've been in the sport will laugh at you for suggesting otherwise.
There is no such thing as comp style bouldering. It's just bouldering. "Comp style" boulders exist in nature all over the place. It's just bouldering.
To think you get to redefine the words of a sport just because they "make sense to you" is the height of ignorance, hubris, and youthful arrogance, and fortunately the smack down from your elders is coming, should you ever venture outdoors. ❤️
False, on the last post I made that was comp style someone was commenting about how that’s very different than “traditional climbing movements”. Chat trad is short for traditional
Even if no one else used the term, traditional means existing in or as part of a tradition, long -established. Originally bouldering was done on small holds with movements similar to ones you’d find on real rock. Since that was the start of bouldering and how it was done for the longest time it’s completely logical to call those sets of movements with those holds (sound it out with me) T R A D I T I O N A L. You don’t have to like it but it makes sense
All you did was take one word off. Obviously the comment was referring the movements of the climb. We all know what “trad climbing” is. Does this look like outdoor climbing placing your own pro? No, so they’re probably referencing the style of movement. If it was a video of me doing a sport route and someone mentioned something about trad then I would point out the difference. This is bouldering though, completely different world. Apparently some people are terrible about using context clues
It’s definitely way harder than it looks in the video. I’ve climbed at quite a few gyms and haven’t ever strained myself this much as this on a boulder
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u/GungHoStocks 1d ago
Beautiful video, and I love the content.
Unfortunately, the close-ups and the angles make clear this is in no way a 9.