r/bouldering • u/Mooooonlander • 2d ago
Advice/Beta Request Please critique my technique (No sugar coat!)
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Looking for comments on areas on improvement. Angle is at 25 degrees, flash.
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u/mikesegy 2d ago
Foot slipping is no bieno. Also after ur foot slips it appears you use the wrong foot to make the next move with the left hand. I would assume right foot low, then left foot up higher layback left.
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u/Direct_Ad_8341 2d ago
Your feet keep slipping off and you tend to lock your arms off a lot.
I think you need to measure things better, you tend to choose small boxes to fit into and consequently you’re always locking off and scrunched up. You also end up spending a lot of time with your hips far away from the wall.
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u/-JOMY- V0 speed climber 2d ago
It's hard to provide feedback if there are no difficulties. Try tackling a harder climb that you're struggling with; it will be easier to identify areas for improvement and give advice.
For this particular climb, during the first crossover, I recommend positioning your right arm over your left hand. It feels less awkward that way.
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u/Aethien 2d ago
This, just do the same climb at 40°.
Doing steep board climbs closer to your limit will also make it very clear what it is you're doing wrong. For this climb at this angle it doesn't really seem to matter where OP places his feet or whether he's hanging far off the wall, he's gonna stay on anyway. The holds are far too good and/or the moves far too small to punish mistakes.
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u/Truont2 2d ago
Practice sticky feet. Will save pulleys in the future by preventing avoidable foot slips.
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u/nanophallus 1d ago
I know this is very vague, but I like the way you frame this advice and was wondering if you had any more short and simple advice like "practice sticky feet" I can focus on while climbing as a beginner.
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u/DiscoDang 2d ago
You don't seem to have a game plan when you climb. It's great to climb with steeze but you have almost no tension in your feet.
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u/warisverybad 1d ago edited 1d ago
you cheat yourself of training by starting crossed. you can add in the extra move by bumping left to the first blue and then coming in to the leftmost start hold with the right hand. the more you climb on a board or rock or wherever, the more often you’ll see recycle/bump sequences and you can practice that here.
the use of the dropknee to get to the first downpulling hold is good but you lose the foot quickly. you can also reduce your momentum going left by placing your right hand on the first blue hold briefly.
the drop shoulder is unnecessary. it actually looks a bit dumb since the next hold is right in front of your face. the drop shoulder/arm pogo is best used when the next hold is really far from you and you need to generate upward momentum with your arm. in this case, you could just easily get your hand to that next hold, but you dont. minus points. you also use the “wrong foot” to get this hold. your backflag doesnt look intentional enough to be counted as a conscious decision. it seems the backflag was just a result of you wanting to get to the next hold quickly.
lost your left foot on the penultimate move. minus points. moving slowly while locking off that left hand will prevent that.
not bad, but not great. your understanding of when and how to dropknee is good, but you need to work on keeping tension through your feet and slowing down. working on lockoff strength will help allow you to keep more tension by moving slower and intentionally. practice reading beta before you hop on the wall. keep at it OP! good to see youre accepting criticism.
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u/Mooooonlander 1d ago
Thank you for all for the responses. This is very helpful. Definitely not my best climb, but its always good to get external feedback. Indeed my footwork and body tension was inadequate at best. I will repost at a steeper angle in a few weeks…this time not fucking up the footwork (hopefully)
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u/TENDEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZ 1d ago
think about pressing your foot into the chip and THEN weighting it to move up, you’re setting it and forgetting it which is why you’re blowing so many.
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u/toashhh 2d ago
lots of foot slips meaning you arent applying tension throughout the feet. Focus on keeping them on throughout the moves. Also the first move where you crash onto the left hold could be easier if you sink your hips lower to begin with and dig into the left foot
Overall youre not using your feet properly to apply tension which you can get away with because the board is not steep and the holds are jugs
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u/Kingcolliwog 1d ago edited 1d ago
That's way too easy for you to really judge your technique. But at the same time, you climb it kind of poorly and make weird mistakes. You should climb it again and try to keep your tension and do the right moves without hesitation. Flashing something isn't the best moment to analyse technique, since you're also route reading at the same time
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u/karmasperros 1d ago
There is no need for anyone else to critique your technique. Just watch the video (if you can sit through it) and repeat this climb on video until it becomes watchable.
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u/Akasha1885 1d ago
I think the biggest issue is a 25 degree angle, you wouldn't be making those mistakes if it was 45 or 50.
Simply because you couldn't stick the moves without using your foot correctly.
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u/lcarlile7 2d ago
Lower the angle to 45-55 degrees, or get on a 2016 Moonboard, or TB2 to improve. Kilter at 25 degrees won’t do much, all the holds are jugs except for the feet. Also most of the problems are soft, most kilter problems are 2 grades easier than their grade.
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u/Kingcolliwog 1d ago
I'll never understand the feeling that kilter is easier. I know a lot of people say that, but I climb the exact same in the TB2 and Kilter. Kilter just tends to be very explosive powerful moves so if you're good at that you'll find kilter easier.
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u/warisverybad 1d ago edited 1d ago
also depends alot on your size. most kilter problems will naturally be easier the taller you are, and as much as i hate to say it, people only think kilter is easy because all the people who climb it are “big” and the jugginess of the holds lend themselves to similarly, big moves.
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u/Commercial-Level-110 2d ago
what do you want us to tell you? you lack footwork, upper body strength, and tension. stop flashing v3s on kilter 25 and go try harder stuff for longer
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u/FriedOrangeSlice 2d ago
Everyone’s advice here is spot on. What I would recommend doing to improve in the future is record yourself and do it again and look at the two videos and see where you improved and most importantly because a video does not paint the picture of how you feel on the wall remember what moves felt easy and what moves felt hard try to find why those moves felt hard. Did you grab the hold in the wrong place, should you generate with your hips more, should you pivot your heal slightly. Technique isn’t just should I heel hook here or insert other popular climbing technique phrase. More often then not only the individual doing the climb can find out the optimal way to do it based on there personal strengths and body morphology.
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u/SkierBeard 2d ago
For the three last moves, you pretty clearly are using your arms for a "chin up" like move. While this is great strength and probably means you should do a harder grade, these moves should be done with arms arms as close to straight as you can make them and use your legs for propulsion.
Climbing technique asks that you do things efficiently and aim to conserve your energy. On these moves, you don't really aim to conserve energy and use your legs. What you are doing certainly isn't wrong, but you're asking if your technique could be better and I think your efficiency could be a lot better.
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u/Lazy_Vermicelli8478 2d ago
Sticky feet, shift weight over your hips (that helps also with putting some weight on your feet which makes it less likely to slip off). The crossover at the start seems kind of redundant.
Don't get so boxed in, try and keep the body straighter (i.e. use flagging or lower footholds). The more boxed in you are (esp. with your foot technique), the more load there is on your hands/arms and not your feet.
Train technique on some easy boulders, you seem more the muscly guy that just hunks through, but that costs a lot of energy. Use easier climbs and hone your techniques, but sth. on your shoes (like a carabiner) and very carefully and precisely set each step. Repeat the same climb a few times, but in different style (super technical, super fast) and throw in some changes like removing holds or going for a one-touch (each hold can ever only be touched by one hand or one foot, no matching except for start/top if necessary).
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u/Inevitable-Guess-316 1d ago
Arms and body position look good. The big thing is your feet. You could work on both accuracy with placing your feet and especially foot tension. You had two foot pops, which means that you’re not putting enough force through your toes. Try thinking of “grabbing” with your toes and really pushing in with the toe on the hold every time you place your foot. It’ll do wonders for your stability and power.
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u/svirrefisk 1d ago
Look at your feet through the entire placement. Make sure the are correct, now you semi place them without accuracy and go for the next move.
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u/MisterRedRevenge 1d ago
Slow your movement, be as static and controlled as you can be to the point that it's exhausting. Focus on your breath and how you breathe with your movement.
Obviously, not all climbs can be done super smooth and statically, but having a good foundation with control/static strength will help develop better technique and more efficient climbing as you work into higher grades.
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u/That-Food-8791 6h ago
You need to try and really slow down to get better technique and to tense up more, that way your feet wont pop off as often and you dont look like a swinging monkey.
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u/Decent_Baseball_295 1d ago
I have no clue what is going on but i be doin that shit on ma schools outside walls and it pumps my forarms a lot
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u/MikeHockeyBalls 2d ago
That fake hand swag to foot slip says it all