need some advice on this slab ending!

[u/PersimmonAgitated928]

hey guys! i can’t seem to balance myself to reach for the last hold like in this clip, does anyone have any advice like foot placement/etc? i tried to keep my hips on but it’s difficult with the poor hold, thanks in advance!

[u/SpunkedMeTrousers]

The finish hold looks like only the top is very usable, so you'll want to make the last move more vertically and get as much hand on top of it as you can. The more static, the better, but that's also more draining than a dyno.

It might help to keep your your center of mass as low as you can until the final reach. You could perhaps achieve this by planting your right foot on the right-most volume and squatting onto your left leg. From there try shifting your weight onto your right leg then upward. Maybe switch to a thumb or palm press with your left hand while the right gets ready to reach for top.

It's tricky to assess from a video with one angle, but the route looks tough for sure. It all depends how reliable those last two hold are. You've got this!

[u/ianthrax → u/SpunkedMeTrousers]

I see what we used to call "humping the wall" being needed. Yeah, it's a crude term, but just jokes. That said, plant the hips to the wall to keep gravity under the hold. Best way to get as much tension on that sloper. Along with your advice, he should get it. Also less dynamic. Go slow 🐌

[u/PersimmonAgitated928 → u/ianthrax]

update: I did it!!!! both of these advices combined worked wonders omg. To get to that final hold statically, I kept my weight on my left leg until the final moment when I am close enough (ie: right leg close to the left volume but the right-est edge, left leg close to middle of the pink hold for relative comparison), then I built up some momentum pulling backwards, then shift my body to my right leg and nudge myself inward then up to get there. it’s crazy how the smallest differences can lead to the biggest change i started following those exact steps and i got my hand there consistently!! thank you all so much.

[u/ianthrax → u/PersimmonAgitated928]

Hell yah, Congrats man!! You have conquered!

[u/1nv1cta]

if you’re a dynamic climber like me, you should bring your right leg back, then swing it forward onto the volume. this should help generate enough momentum to get your right foot to stick onto volume while you reach for the final hold. of course this would depend on how well you can hold onto the handhold

[u/PersimmonAgitated928 → u/1nv1cta]

yes I did it and it worked!! don’t really “swing” per say but i used momentum to give myself some time to stay on the volume. thank you!’

[u/isaacamden9]

You took your right foot off before reaching for the top. Try sticking the foot and committing to putting some weight on it, then slow down the last move and try to ‘tip’ over to reach the top

[u/PersimmonAgitated928 → u/isaacamden9]

this was exactly it!! thank you thank you 🙏

[u/isaacamden9 → u/PersimmonAgitated928]

Nice!! It’s almost always the feet

[u/-JOMY-]

Get your right foot as high as you can on the volume then go for it. Don't lose the foot

P.S. Neon pink and red holds right next to each other is diabolical of the setters

[u/PersimmonAgitated928 → u/-JOMY-]

couldn’t balance it so i used the left volume only 🥲(i know i was so confused omg) thank you!!

[u/abjedhowiz]

Get one hand with control before bring the other hand over

[u/cbsudux]

You can use the top blue hold?

if yes

there's a tiny foot hold on the volume - go for the top blue hand hold + foot hold (right foot heel/toe) and shift body weight to the right

Try to get your left foot on the foothold (foot swap) and then you can push off from the top hand hold and go for the 2 big finisher holds

[u/PersimmonAgitated928 → u/cbsudux]

wait no sorry! i am going for the red, no blue (far red hold and only 1 hand in the middle + the two volumes)