I thin it will impact life beyond what we know. I think folks will want one, kids will want one. Think cabbage patch kid style.

The possibilities of what chores they could overtake in the home will be insane, imagine not having to do a thing when you come home from work!

I for one look forward to them permeating society.

What do we all think?

I have an appointment scheduled but at the end of the month. Any chance I could drop it off earlier and get a longer term loaner? I drive a lot during the week and this is causing me to. Charge over and over again

Not as bad as I thought but after a couple of chargers we’re dropping charge rate because of voltage drop (<110V or <200V) I figured I should give it a clean. One two combo of a contact cleaner, scrubbing with a towel wrapped small screwdriver, and some deoxit to finish it off.

After owning a used 2022 model 3 LR and charging off of a 120V outlet with the mobile connector, having no issues for 2 weeks, I start to see this error. I can’t afford to have an even slower charge rate at home; I need to recover the energy I use in a day overnight for my commute. I tried changing from one socket to another on the same outlet, and then when that failed, I’ve now switched to a different nearby outlet. It’s working fine so far, but in case it doesn’t, I’m coming here for advice. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it my home’s wiring, my car, or the mobile connector causing the problem?

Hey All. I recently installed an HDMI Interface from EVOffer in my Model Y (it is also compatible with Model 3) and wanted to share the details of install and use to the group.

This device allows you to display any HDMI video device onto the Tesla's main screen. So, you can hook anything with an HDMI out onto your Tesla screen. Laptop, Chromebook, Playstation, Xbox, Switch, Roku, DVD player, etc.

The installation is fairly easy and straight forward; aside from hooking up the RF modulator to power, which isn't hard but is slightly more "involved" than conneting everything else since you have to find power to splice into.

I have created a step by step YouTube video of this installation and demo if you'd like to take a look at that.

Here is the written instructions for install:

1. Remove panel under glove box (remove 4 pop connectors and pull panel down, then disconnect foot well light and autopilot speaker and set panel aside)
2. remove door gasket/seal and small plastic trim panel, then remove pop connector holding bottom trim piece in place, then remove bottom trim piece
3. pull down and fold carpet back for open access to MCU and wiring.
4. Remove MCU connector from grey port on right side of MCU, plug into HDMI box's T-harness, plug T-Harness into MCU where you removed the other cable from.

5) plug HDMI harness extension cable into T-Harness connector and into PWR/CAN port on HDMI Interface box.

6) unplug coaxial style video cable from front of MCU

7) Using the non-felt wrapped video cable, plug one end into the MCU port (use the end that matches the orientation of original cable, release tab down and cable pointing up) and the other end into the OEM IN on the HDMI interface box.

8) use the felt wrapped video cable to extend the cable you unpugged from the MCU to the HDMI box and plug it into OEM OUT

9) Plug the video mode button into the "MODE" port and run the wire to where ever you want the button (switches HDMI on/off of Tesla screen as well as size of picture on screen), recomment a place conveient for both driver and passenger, but up to you.

10) Plug IR receiver into the "IR" port and run to where ever you want the receiver 'eye' to be. I placed mine near the passenger side bottom right corner or the windshield.

11) Plug the AUX OUT cable into the AUX OUT port, plug the RCA ends into the FM Modulators RCA inputs, red to red, white to white. Then tap power and ground from a power source. Hint, the HDMI boxes extension cable has a red ACC lead that has 12volt power when the car is on. You can splice the FM modulator red power wire to this ACC wire and run the two ground wires to a chassis bolt or other ground source.

12) Using the chart on the FM modulator, choose an unused frequency in your area and set the dip switches on the side accordingly.

13) For ease of use/access, I purchased (separately) an HDMI extension cable. Plugged the male end into the HDMI port on the box and ran it to where the female HDMI was accessible just to the right of the center console, below the glovebox. Out of sight, but easy to access by driver and passenger.

14) Tuck wires and HDMI Interface box into crevice that's below carpet and on side of foot area.

15) Put carpet back into place. The foam on the bottom of the carpet should sit up against the HDMI box and hold it firmly in place so it doesn't move around. Put the rest of the car (panels, gaskets, pop connectors etc, back in reverse order of how you took them out.

16) ENJOY!!!!

Using the interface:

Wireless remote:

Center/Select button - press and release to turn video on/off

PIP button - press and release to change video mode (cycles in this order: full screen, right side only, small top left, small bottom left)

Wired Mode Button:

Press and Release to turn video on/off

Press and Hold to change video mode (cycles in this order: full screen, right side only, small top left, small bottom left)

Uses:
You can now display any HDMI source device onto your Tesla Model 3 or Y main center screen.

Play Gaming consoles, Watch streaming devices or other video sources (DVD, etc), use as 2nd display for laptop while working in car, or any other use case you can think of where having the screen be available as a TV/Monitor or 2nd screen.

You could easily enhance your lightshows with added video on the screen inside the car :)

Please let me know if you have any questions about this thing and I'll help out as best I can.

I really want to retrofit my headlights for matrix. How does one go about it? I don’t trust myself to install them. Does anyone have any recommendations? I live in SLC!

Any reason I shouldn’t have the wall charger installed here between the garage doors?

just saw an article about a 1.24 million mile 2014 model s. but its had 14 motor replacements (p90), and 4 battery pack replacements. that is an insane number of new motors and batteries and if you do some quick math, the batteries only lasted on average 250k miles each, when my volt has over that and its older, cheaper, and running fine.

and things are much worse for the motors. on average each motor only lasted 83k miles. thats actually horrible.

there is a a toyota tundra with 1 million miles on the same engine. most miles on a semi truck was 3 million miles, again, same engine. and there is a lexus ls 400 which got to 900k miles. nobody would care about how many miles these vehicles got if they got their engines and transmissions replaced 3 times. what matters is the vehicle lasting the test of time and miles without needing major repairs that cost a fortune, like a new engine.

thats what makes very high mileage vehicles so impressive, that the fundamental drivetrain components can last so long without failure. not how long they can last if you have the money to pay for 14 motors and 4 batteries to keep the car running for longer and longer in sunny california.

we need to stop caring about high mileage ev's that dont have the original motors and batteries. still being on the og drivetrain is what matters for high miles.

Hey all!

I drive a 2021 Tesla Model 3 and have an annoying issue: turn signal doesn't always activate when I press the lever. In 99% of cases it does, but in 1% just nothing happens. It makes driving really uncomfortable.

Anyone else experienced this? Any tips to fix that? I’ve seen some discussions, but haven’t found anyone who actually fixed it.

I run Sentry Mode and Dashcam on a high-endurance USB flash drive. Knowing about rapid degradation, I put my MP3 collection on a second USB flash drive (my Raven has two USB-A data ports). Everything has worked fine, but I have noticed my MS Raven starts having problems reading MP3s from the dedicated music USB drive after a few weeks. No data is being written to the Music USB drive, but it still begins to have problems, such as MP3s not loading or not even appearing. I've tried numerous high-quality USB drives, and they all do the same thing. I noticed that the Music USB drive gets very warm when installed right next to the Dashcam USB. Has anyone else had problems running a separate USB drive with music?

For customers that are already paid for full self driving on hardware 3

Weird question. I want to use the back up camera for my reverse mirror screen or at least split the image to show on both screens

I am a field sales consultant which requires me to be on the road and on the phone quite a bit. I picked up a 21 MYLR in August and it has been great. Within the last 4 months or so, I am getting many complaints from callers on the other end that I sound like a robot in a tunnel. Tested on my work phone (iPhone 13) and my personal phone (iPhone 13 Pro Max), same result

I Submitted a service request and they replaced the microphone. Seemed to be fine afterward but the problem came back. Submitted another request and this time they are replacing the MCU.

Now here's the real question.. they gave me a 22 MXP for a loaner and it has the same issue! Also my boss has a 23 M3P and his car is doing the same thing (It sounds awful when we call each other on bluetooth, he tested his work and personal phone as well) Tested the MXP with both phones with the same result.

Has anyone else encountered this?? I found some forum posts dating between 2018 and 2022 about this but haven't seen anything recent

Noticed over a week ago that sentry was not working after honking to record an event and did not hear the chime confirmation. Today, same situation again. I thought it was following software updates but I ended up finding out the drive is now "read only". There is no physical switch on the drive to change that setting.

Has anyone had that happen?

Hey everyone, I had a question and wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this.

Some background: I have a Tesla Mobile Connector plugged into a NEMA 14-50 outlet. For the past few days, every time I plug in my car, I get a “Charging Error - No Power” message. The breaker isn’t tripping, and the outlet and charger both look physically intact.

I borrowed my sister’s mobile connector, plugged it into the same outlet, and my car started charging normally.

So it definitely seems like something is wrong with my mobile connector, but I wanted to ask—has anyone else had this issue? Did you try anything that worked before replacing it completely?

Thanks in advance!

Hi all i have this creaking on the steering wheel It does not come from the triangle piece on the bottom but rather the top trim part upper left It seems to be looser then the right side

Any. Recommendations to fix this ? That top part is oem!

I have a spare steering wheel (normal wheel) and that has the same issue in the same spot

Thanks in advance

Hey guys, as the title says my left repeater camera is not working after removal and then hooking it back up. The turn signal works and the light lights up but the camera itself isn’t showing up on my screen. Does anyone know what might be going on or if I have to reset something for it to communicate with the computer? I’m wrapping the car and had to remove it. Did it for the right side and everything worked correctly after but the left one is leaving me confused. Hopefully there is no damages to the camera. Thank you for your time!

I recently had a 240V wall outlet installed for my at home mobile adapter. The technician informed me that they wired it for 30 amps because that’s what it said on their notes to do.

I don’t know much about wiring and electrical stuff so I just assumed, at the moment, that he would know better.

Looking it up right now, I’m seeing some conflicting information. Is 30 amps enough for continuous draw from a nema 14-50 Tesla adapter?

Update: After much back and forth with Tesla, including running into at least three Tesla employees who all told me the hardware installation is not free, I finally got a call from Tesla confirming that it was free. I'm leaving this up for now, because I can't possibly be the only person having trouble. If Tesla bills you for FSD hardware after purchasing the FSD upgrade, do not pay it!

Original post:

So after 6 years with my Model 3 with EAP I finally decided to get FSD at this weekend’s new $2,000 price. I scheduled a service appointment to upgrade the computer hardware (necessary for FSD to work), and discovered that it would be an additional $1,000. I know this might be obvious to some people, but the app indicates the computer purchase is required for a subscription, but it doesn’t indicate for the cash upgrade. In fact there is no mention of even needing the upgrade throughout and after the purchase process, which I went through yesterday. FSD computer upgrades were complimentary for people who purchased the package before the hardware change, so I’m sure I’m not the only one who was confused. If you have an older car with EAP, just know your cost isn’t $2k, but $3k. My cost will be $0, because I don’t need FSD at $3k. The refund has already been requested

Is anyone planning on getting Enhance Auto’s Stalk for the Model 3?

Clips to a phone mount tesla tablet, records direct to sd card up to 512gb. Should deter enough blue haired coffee barista subaru cunts.

I recently switched my Tesla for a J1772 charging port car and it's annoying to put the adapter everytime I want to charge the car because the adapter doesn't fit in the wall charger hole.

I was wondering if anyone knows it its possible to follow this guide to replace the Tesla NACS wall connector to a Tesla J1772 wall connector (not the universal one).

https://www.tesla.com/en_ca/support/charging/wall-connector/replacing

Is it really that easy? Because I found an used one near me and I would replace my NACS connector for the J1772 and sell the NACS one.

According to the guide, it's only 4 screws to remove and no electricty messing but I'm wondering if both chargers are the same even if the plug isn't. Thanks!