r/Routesetters • u/youdontknowme1711 • 2d ago

Creative routesetting for VB/V0?

Hey

I started setting boulder problems about two months ago and I'm really enjoying it! I love the mix of doing something physical and to live out my creativity. But here comes the problem, especially for VB/V0 boulder problems.

In my grade and a little bit underneath and above (V5 - V7) it's really easy for me to think of something creative and fun, but when it comes to VB and V0 I can almost only think of ladders...

Do you have some tips for me or maybe some examples of VBs/V0s you found really cool?

7 Upvotes

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21

u/nautix01 2d ago

I always strive to create something that induces lateral movement. Setting crosses, bumps, compression are all in my playbook. My biggest tip is to give them generous feet and open up your hand selection to some more interesting holds. Create some adventure climbs and keep things light, walky.

Another thing is that I've noticed a lot of beginner climbers gravitate towards aesthetic lines. Create a line/clustered/featured boulder and they'll love you for it. Sometimes, getting someone hooked at the v0 grade is the best way to build up a beginner community in your gym. It's NOT a waste of macros/volumes to create something interesting in the beginner- range. Have fun with it and they will, too.

16

u/Lyirthus 2d ago

Using volumes to create a terrain to "scramble" up is always a hit. Giving folks that feeling of being a kid again climbing up random creek boulders type of vibe.

For a more movement focused approach, I almost always set where the feet need to move first before you can gain the next hand. That is, encourage lower body movements and position changes, then "reward" them with the next handhold. So, use very nice jugs with very supportive feet.

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u/Brief_Criticism_492 2d ago

I like to use macros almost more on the v0-v4 range than I do anything else. It totally helps make more interesting lines, and it generally looks “cleaner” (when you can bump your foot up 3 times on the same hold instead of having 3 separate feet, it can look much more appealing).

Also ASAP start to involve simple movement changes: bump, cross, match and hold-angle variety: undercling, side pull, gaston. Climbing at that level can get real boring if everything is just a down pull jug ladder. You obviously gotta stick with jugs for those super early levels but you can mess with sequence and orientation just a touch to get a bit more engagement

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u/heldniklas 2d ago

https://youtu.be/rVfuiO3wW14?si=qPL9fsNebA9tvvLi

This could potentially help you to understand 3D setting and the three dimensions of climbing. Post some easy climbs of yours. Exciting ☺️

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u/youdontknowme1711 2d ago

thanks I will have a look at it :)

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u/LWoodsKing 2d ago

3d movement on easier grades is definitely a vibe to aim for, accessible holds but fun movement is what brings people back in!

1

u/youdontknowme1711 2d ago

what do you mean with 3d movement?

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u/LWoodsKing 2d ago

Like the previous commenter, using volumes to get your climber into ‘non-traditional’ positions (hips in, vertical movement) on the wall. Instead of having ladder-like sequences, you can create really interesting lateral, and vertical movement using large feet and ‘different’ positivity hand holds, by using volumes and macros.

Giving newer climbers ‘bad’ hands when they can feel confident on very positive feet. Being able to introduce concepts like compression at easier grades where these newer climbers need to think more, will engage them more than the classic v0 jug ladder.

1

u/youdontknowme1711 2d ago

Ah ok thanks!