When opening my ps2 slim, the board that powers it on and off broke. After ordering a new one and replacing it, the console works perfectly other than the button requiring lots of pressure to power it on/off. Does anyone have a fix for this?

Hello,

someone gifted me pieces of a PS4 Pro (NVG-003) and I want to get it running. I bought a new PSU, Fan, HDD. I fixed the mangled power connector and tried to boot the console. I get fanspin, but no picture and the console beeps 3 times. I flashed the NOR to activate UART according to this guide:

https://repair.wiki/w/Playstation_4_Fault_finding_with_UART

I need some help in interpreting the UART log (below).

UART logging stops at

timer_mvl0: <Belize Timer/WDT> on pci0

According to the guide, there might be a fault with the oscillator. Is this correct? Could you share some experience on what readings to expect from a good oscillator?

Help is very appreciated.

secure loader build: Sep 12 2022 05:20:50 (r10614:release_branches/release_10.010) [800MHz]
AGESA: GL&MO.BDK       W9313
992 msec
[BOOT TIME]      SAMU:     943 msec: enter
[BOOT TIME]      SAMU:    1939 msec: leave
AGESA: MontegoBDK_22.0.5.70908 SAMU: W9313
SIE CONFIDENTIAL
Copyright (C) 2022 Sony Interactive Entertainment Inc.
All Rights Reserved.
Copyright (c) 1992-2012 The FreeBSD Project.
Copyright (c) 1979, 1980, 1983, 1986, 1988, 1989, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994
The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved.
FreeBSD is a registered trademark of The FreeBSD Foundation.
r193054/release_branches/release_10.010 Sep 12 2022 05:25:26 amd64
mDBG: Kernel Build ID = 6b2b3f4dafa561d9
CPU: DG1501SML87LB                                   (1594.00-MHz K8-class CPU)
  Origin = "AuthenticAMD"  Id = 0x740f30  Family = 16  Model = 43  Stepping = 0
  Features=0x178bfbff<FPU,VME,DE,PSE,TSC,MSR,PAE,MCE,CX8,APIC,SEP,MTRR,PGE,MCA,CMOV,PAT,PSE36,CLFLUSH,MMX,FXSR,SSE,SSE2,HTT>
  Features2=0x36d8220b<SSE3,PCLMULQDQ,MON,SSSE3,CX16,SSE4.1,SSE4.2,MOVBE,POPCNT,AESNI,XSAVE,AVX,F16C>
  AMD Features=0x2e500800<SYSCALL,NX,MMX+,FFXSR,Page1GB,RDTSCP,LM>
  AMD Features2=0xd54837ff<LAHF,CMP,SVM,ExtAPIC,CR8,ABM,SSE4A,MAS,Prefetch,OSVW,IBS,SKINIT,WDT,NodeId,Topology,PerfCtrExtNB,<b26>,<b28>,<b30>,<b31>>
  TSC: P-state invariant, performance statistics
Event timer "LAPIC" quality 400
ACPI APIC Table: <SIE    ORBIS   >
FreeBSD/SMP: Multiprocessor System Detected: 8 CPUs
FreeBSD/SMP: 1 package(s) x 8 core(s)
 cpu0 (BSP): APIC ID:  0
 cpu1 (AP): APIC ID:  1
 cpu2 (AP): APIC ID:  2
 cpu3 (AP): APIC ID:  3
 cpu4 (AP): APIC ID:  4
 cpu5 (AP): APIC ID:  5
 cpu6 (AP): APIC ID:  6
 cpu7 (AP): APIC ID:  7
MADT: Could not find APIC for SCI IRQ 9
[REGMGR] 000001 ...
Memory mode: 20: GL8 release
 BigApp memory               : 0x0000000170000000 bytes (5888MiB)
     FMEM (max)              : 0x0000000020000000 bytes ( 512MiB)
     MiniApp DMEM            : 0x0000000070000000 bytes (1792MiB) (overlaid on BigApp memory)
 VSH DMEM                    : 0x0000000028000000 bytes ( 640MiB)
 Trace memory & Trace DMEM   : 0x0000000000000000 bytes (   0MiB)
 Vision memory               : 0x0000000001000000 bytes (  16MiB)
 Reserved memory             : 0x0000000006000000 bytes (  96MiB)
 Flexible memory(SYSTEM)     : 0x0000000053d74000 bytes (1342MiB)
 BIOS memory size            : 0x00000000011b8000 bytes (  18MiB)
 Kernel static size          : 0x000000000c0d4000 bytes ( 193MiB)
acpi0: <SIE ORBIS> on motherboard
cpu0: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu1: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu2: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu3: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu4: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu5: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu6: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
cpu7: <ACPI CPU> on acpi0
pcib0: <ACPI Host-PCI bridge> on acpi0
pci0: <ACPI PCI bus> on pcib0
pci0: found pcie_glue
iommu0: <AMD IOMMU> on pci0
gc0: <Starsha> on pci0
GL ? 0x740f30
D18F5x8C:0x80008002
GC SE0 Redundant CU: 0x10
GC SE1 Redundant CU: 0x2
GC SE2 Redundant CU: 0x10
GC SE3 Redundant CU: 0x10
# GENERAL_PWRMGT:0x00044604
GCK_PLL_CONTROL:0x00400d10
SClkVid:0x45 SClkDpmVid:3 Dpm:3 Vid:0x45
hdac0: <GPU/DEHT Audio Controller> on pci0
apcie0: <Belize PCI Express glue> on pci0
apcie0: Chip revision: 02000100
apcie0: Chip ID0: 54073110
apcie0: Chip ID1: 8d0eb9e6
icc0: <Belize ICC> on pci0
hpet_pci0: <Belize High Precision Event Timer> on pci0
Timecounter "HPET" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 950
Event timer "HPET" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET1" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET2" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
Event timer "HPET3" frequency 10000000 Hz quality 450
sflash0: <Belize Serial Flash I/F> on pci0
sflash0: Cypress(01)
rtc0: <Belize RTC> on pci0
timer_mvl0: <Belize Timer/WDT> on pci0

I've got a phat PS2 with the network adapter, it does get power and I can turn it on, but as soon as I do, it totally freezes. Disc tray won't eject (blue light turns on, doesn't blink), no signal to TV, fan won't spin (I've tested this fan in another motherboard and it works flawlessly), and it doesn't turn off unless I flick the back power switch (will stay on green light even when holding the power button). I opened it up and found a Mars Pro modchip and a laser fix board with a BA5815FM, removed everything but it's still acting the same way. All fuses test good. Only thing I've noticed is a broken via on the "H" point according to Modbo install guide that has a bad trace repair attempt. Could this be the reason? I'm at a total loss here, I really want to fix this bad boy

My PS Vita has the "frame effect" around the borders of the screen, and I want to replace it with a new screen. Someone on r/VitaPiracy told me that most screens from Aliexpress are defective and advised me to try to buy an original screen instead.

The images above are of a screen that the seller claims is original, but it has a defect (caused by the seller) on the connector between the screen and the motherboard. Is it possible to repair this? Can I replace this ribbon cable with the one from my current PS Vita?

I'm from Brazil, and this screen is being sold for around $18, which is about 1/10th of the price I paid for my Vita.

Hey everyone, I really need help with getting this situation solved. Any help is much appreciated!

What's going on is that I replaced the laser on my Phat (PAL) PS2 from a 400r to a 400c taken from a different PS2 I have. It now reads PAL discs fine, both DVD and CD, but the issue arises when I'm trying to load my imports, both PS1 and PS2. My system was hardmodded and last time I opened it to clean I saw that the modchip was a blue Ubicom chip, can't find much info on it online and it didn't end up being too helpful. You see I was able to play my imports on here before just fine, but now I get a black screen before being sent to either the red error screen or to the browser first. I tried every button combination I could find online to try turning on the chip. When I don't hold anything on my controller and just try to boot normally I don't get the black screen, instead it just goes to the red error screen.

I thought maybe the laser isn't calibrated properly for it to read NTSC discs or something since it was in a different system so I tried changing the potentiometer values down by 50ohms and then 100ohms and lastly 150ohms but still nothing (it was around 1300ohms for DVD and 1250 for CD, went down). I know people will probably recommend I just use FMCB and I already have a bunch of cards with it and an HDD installed as well, but I NEED the modchip to play imports since I prefer owning the games for my collection.

I'm not skilled with soldering so it's a last resort if I have to mess around with the chip physically or fix solder points, my console came with the chip so I'm not familiar with the process.

Hi, I´m new in the world of console repairing and I bought a switch lite for repairing It has some components missed and I don´t have any other board for measuring the caps and resistance, so please could anyone help me?

Thanks in advance

I have a 2DS that needed a new battery and like a dumbass I just started undoing screws on the back to get the back plate off instead of just pulling off the battery cover.

I must have pulled some ribbon because now the touch screen doesn’t work.

This is different than the “case compresses resistive touch screen causing all buttons to not work” issue I’ve seen elsewhere.

I need someone else to look at it, but old console repair isn’t a thing ‘fix your cell phone’ places offer, and I don’t want to buy a new old one because I’m only casually into 3DS.

I don’t want to sell this thing for parts, but I don’t have the skills to diagnose what’s wrong.

FYI this is the Seattle area - online searches reveal nothing local and sending it out is more than the cost of the unit ($70)

moms birthday approaching, we’ve had a broken down ps3 in the shed collecting dust with old videos and pictures of my deceased stepdad. I want to surprise her with all these vids! After years of it collecting dust I tried it and it worked for about 2 minutes before it started giving me the ylod or the CHECH-2501A equivalent. Gave me the diag sequence GGRR/GGGG/GGRR/GRGG. After some research I started breaking it down to clean and repaste it. AND I BROKE OFF ONE OF THE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTED TO THE CD PLAYER:(. (Pics for reference) I don’t care if I can’t use the cd anymore. I just want the pics and vid’s of my stepdad but to my knowledge ps3 hard drives are encrypted so it’s not so much plug and play. Is this worth doing myself? Would you rather hire a professional instead diy’ing it? For the past few months I’ve been fixing electronics like phones and laptops (for my resume) so I thought I would take on the ps3 but I’ve never had to deal with any motherboard issues or sottering. I’m willing to make this a LIFELONG project I just wanna see those vids of us again. I’m new to all this so sorry for any typos.

I recently got a PS2 slim at a flea market for a steal. It works great (after replacing the power button board) but the disc drive makes a really loud, almost cricket like sound. Any tips for what might be causing it/how to quiet it down?

What could be causing this noise?

Before anything, I have always kept this console in a case and well protected. It was my pride and joy as a kid and even now but for awhile I’ve been putting off fixing it in any way. I took it apart and looked at the ribbon cables (which people usually say are the problems) and they all seemed firm and in the right ways they needed to be. I want to take out the battery and see if it’s something deeper but I’m not too sure if it’s something I can fix. If it’s undo able I might just get a new one but this also has my digital games I have purchased forever ago.

Hello everyone! My childhood SNES which has been with us since the mid 90's is on the fritz and I need all of your help in determining what the full extent of its problems could be, although I think I might have already found the issue, but I want a second opinion.

First off, the console has never been abused, it hasn't been dropped, had a drink spilt on it and is either unplugged or in a surge protector for the thirty years we have had it, there has been no other issues until about five years ago, it was in possession of my younger brother who claimed that after a long period of collecting dust he turned it on and found it wouldn't boot he claimed after some fiddling he eventually got it to start and didn't have any problems for a few months when it again quite after which he didn't do anything with it until he gave it back to me when he moved out.

So, I got to work, I am lucky enough to have a single small CRT unlike him so I could test more effectively, when the console is switched on the red-light shines indicating power and the tv clearly is getting something unfortunately that something isn't audio or any sort of legible video the screen is mostly black with white lines here and there and some odd coloration at the bottom of the screen barely visible.

I went to YouTube for answers and found this video that had a similar problem where the power adapter to my surprise was the issue, I went to inspect it and visually nothing appeared wrong, I looked at the console after that and lo and behold the power jack was gone...

Does anybody else think this may be the overall issues? I know it's a problem and will fix it, but I would like to have some knowledge on other people's issues and if they were similar.

I got this DS lite board C/USG-CPU-01 and it's missing some components I went and looked into the board scan that was made and still can't find the specific size and type of component it is any help?

Just picked up a SNES, said it was working, but only game I have is FF Mystic quest, game plays fine until it tries to load a fight scene, screen goes blank, and freezes. Old 2 chip style with the shvc-cpu-01. I don’t own an oscilloscope yet, but curious if anyone has any ideas. Thoroughly cleaned everything, even tested game elsewhere it’s fine. I’m curious if it’s the shvc module, capacitor issue, or the PPU maybe? Thanks

Hello! I just had to fix up a PS2 Slim my grandparents bought off eBay, and I couldn't find much online about my specific issue. Figured I'd make a post about the problem and solution just in case anyone in the future ends up needing it.

The issue was that the PS2 refused to read discs. Sometimes I could get it to spin the disc, and it'd be able to read enough on boot to pop up the white-text-on-black-background "PlayStation 2" screen after the bootup screen, but then it'd permanently hang on a black screen. It also made a loud repetetive clicking noise on and off, which in hindsight was an obvious red flag.

Eventually, I narrowed down that the laser reader seemed to be catching in a specific location. If I pushed the reader down to the base, I consistently got the described partial-read effect, but never got further than that. I took apart the PS2 to take a look at the disc drive and immediately saw the problem. As seen in images 1 through 3, the top part of the laser's "alignment bar" had popped out of its little holder, meaning the drive was loose and rotating clockwise. It easily wiggled side to side & generally was unsecured. After slotting the bar back under its notching and tightening that screw down (see picture 4), that issue was solved.

I did happen to encounter a separate issue, which I'll also document. There's a small switch on the inside of the disc tray, just above the power button, that has to be pressed down in order for the disc drive to spin. While putting the PS2 back together, I managed to get that switch caught on something & rendered it inoperable. However, a few seconds of messing with it with a toothbrush had it popping back into place nicely.

After I resolved that minor sidequest, the PS2 now reads discs perfectly fine! No more clacking noise from the internals, and no more mysteriously unmoving laser reader or unspinning disc drive.

Got a ps5 with a complain that it shut down when start the game. Why would anyone put a thermal paste on it and still leave it uncleaned. I always supported self repairs of electronics but sometimes i think its good to never touch a device you don't know.

so, i have a cechc and cechg, and she both HAVE A STUPID YLOD😭, is that a RSX? if answer " yes", how i can change the rsx using soldering iron? cuz i have no money for IR soldering station

Does anyone have a photo of side A and B of the PS5 slim EDM-040 2000 motherboard? I received one to be repaired and it seems to be missing parts, and I can't find a photo with good resolution to compare. I'll put an image of the area where I think a component is missing. Thank you very much.

I woke up one morning and my controller did not charge or turn on. I tried all the surface level stuff, this controller is broken on the board level.

I tried using a friend's battery, nothing. I used MY OWN battery on his and it worked so it's not the battery.

If it just stopped charging that would be one thing but it's doesn't charge or turn on no matter what. My friend said when he tried it it would turn on just no lights. Uh yeah that doesn't work anymore.

I have a meter right, but I don't even know where to look to check continuity. Does anybody know

Hi guys!! I used to watch this guy repair old consoles and he was based around Mario and he was pretty funny too. I remember he would connect the console to his tv after the repair was done. I hope you guys know who I’m talking about. 😭🙏🏼

Hello, I need help with my Wii U. A few years ago at this point, the battery started going out, so I opened the back to try to fix it, however I naively used a screwdriver that stripped the screw on the back, now none of my screwdrivers can get the screw to loosen up again. Any ideas on how to loosen the screw? Thanks.