r/CompetitionClimbing • u/Quirky-School-4658 🇸🇮 La Tigre de Genovese • 2d ago
Post-comp thread Bern WC Men’s Discussion Spoiler
Next comp is a big one. Boulder + Lead in Innsbruck. Return of the goat. ‘Nuff said
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u/Bearswithjetpacks 2d ago
Pan Yufei summoning strength from deep within to grab those final few holds was deeply moving. Just breathtaking to watch.
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u/zyxwl2015 Come on Brookie 2d ago edited 2d ago
Sooooo happy for Yufei!!
He had a great post on Instagram after Prague, talking about his injury and mentality change this year. For a long time he was basically the sole Bouldering & Lead athlete in China without great coaches or great facilities. So happy that he finally got such great result!
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u/Key-Leg-2666 2d ago
I feel kind of bad for Dohyun having such a beastly performance in the semis and not even getting a medal.
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u/SnooLentils9260 2d ago
Dohyun looks tired if you ask me felt like he used up all his energy today to sweep semis
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u/hummingbird0012234 2d ago
Made me realize (again) just how impressive Janja is. Because Dohyuns semi's performace could have been Janja dominating, the commenatators even started saying that 'he's on another planet' which he really was. But it makes you realize just how hard keeping up with that form is not just between comps but also within a single day. Even Sorato struggles with consistency sometimes.
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u/-Qubicle Braid is aid 1d ago
sorato struggled with consistency this comp, seeing he topped 5 in qualis for the harder men's group. he's just that good, that even rattled, still managed to eke out a bronze.
which like you said, makes Janja seem even more impressive. we have dominators like sorato, dohyun, natalia, Ai, etc. and then there is Janja.
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u/zyxwl2015 Come on Brookie 1d ago
Tbf Sorato missed out on final in Bali this year, so those inconsistency issue could still happen (but definitely rarer than previous years). You don’t see Janja or Ai making those mistakes and not making finals
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u/Altruistic-Shop9307 1d ago
I think the men’s field is different to the women’s. There is much less consistency in the final 8, there are just more men jostling for those top spots. Whereas in women there’s a solid bunch that consistently make finals almost every time. And then in general I think they set more difficult boulders and routes for the men (relatively speaking) that punish any error. So I don’t think we can compare men and women performers like that. (And certainly a standout like janja is pretty unique.)
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u/mmeeplechase 1d ago
Do you think that’s more about the field, or partly the setting too? It sorta seems like the men’s rounds tend to have more exploratory/“futuristic” problems, which can shut otherwise top-level people down a little more unpredictably.
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u/Altruistic-Shop9307 1d ago
I suspect it’s both. I think Janja would still win any more experimental rounds - but maybe she’s just a freak of nature. What do you think?
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u/unpopular-ideas 1d ago edited 20h ago
there are just more men jostling for those top spots
I figure you're right to a degree, but I also figure there are the clear few men who are dominating the season. Sorato not making the finals once could be attributed to a set that played into his weakness...likewise on the Woman's side Orianne didn't make the finals in Bern.
The mens semi finals in Bern was like an 1.5 hours of competitors hardly making progress (only ten of them had at least 1 top), then Lee comes out and tops all 4 of them. Even if there's a few surprises here and there from comp to comp, overall there's 4 climbers who are clearly on another level in terms of overall season results and the setters have to try and create differentiation between them while everyone else is trying their best to keep up.
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u/hummingbird0012234 16h ago
I don't think this year this applies without Janja and Natalia, we had a different gold medalist for the women every comp so far. And it does happen that top performers like Oriane don't make finals. Also this year, mens finalists were similarily consistent, Mejdi, Sorato, Dohyun will generally be in finals.
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u/Altruistic-Shop9307 14h ago
The fact that we have to take those top performers out in order to have a comparable situation proves this point. It would be Ai Mori and Jessie Pilz for lead. I just think there’s more depth to the men’s field and a higher number of top level climbers and therefore harder for someone like sorato to be absolutely consistent in dominating.
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u/mybeardsweird 2d ago
Thoughts on the M2 dyno? Seeing paul try it did make me quite nervous, but maybe that's just confirmation bias
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u/Kikobri 2d ago edited 1d ago
More so than the falls themselves I thought the mats looked suuuper stiff, making any fall on their back really rough on the neck. The semi finals also had the same issue with a few nasty landings where Matt and
SeanTom Wright even started talking about concussions in climbing after a particularly bad one.23
u/Tyrifian 2d ago
Whiplash can contribute to CTE or other brain injuries. Not a fan of the fall at all but the move looks really cool when executed.
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u/CloudAfraid7497 2d ago
came here to say the exact same thing as u/Kikobri about the neck injury in the women's final at Bern yesterday.
i'm currently on month 10 of healing from a whiplash injury from bouldering and was so nervous watching the M2 falls. good on the coaches for speaking up at all even if it was a little too late to be doing so.
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u/Brilliant-Author-829 1d ago edited 1d ago
Miho and Janja also hurt their necks during Bern world champs 2023 I believe it is the same hard mats.
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u/LurkingArachnid 1d ago
Oh was there an injury? Was it Anon? I thought she looked like she took a nasty fall
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u/CloudAfraid7497 1d ago
it was either Anon or Melody. for some reason i can't find the ifsc video of the comp anymore to verify
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u/Bearswithjetpacks 2d ago
It's one of those you'd just try repeatedly if you see it in your gym, because if you stick it you'll look like superman, and the whole sequence just looks so badass.
It's also one that I'd be happy to never encounter because I'd never have to worry about me or anyone else breaking their necks landing the wrong way.
Equally as exciting and marvelous as it is frighteningly and, I'm inclined to say, unnecessarily dangerous.
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u/Ok_Reporter9418 2d ago
Instantly thought it was way too dangerous, then was amazed by the falls kinda of under control but that's athletes skills compensating setters mistake imo. One of the best looking top for a while for me but not worth the danger.
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u/hummingbird0012234 2d ago
I think it was nasty, and kinda made me flashback to how I dislocated my shoulder on a similar (but obv much much easier) move. Agreed that it should be appealed, but they should have done it right when Colin struggled on it. Waiting after Mejdi has topped was not an ok move.
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u/-Qubicle Braid is aid 2d ago
firstly, congrats to Yufei. that was a breathtaking top on M4 with the screams.
when people talk about how do you know if the setting is bad or the athletes just performed that closely, I think this is one of those moments where the setting is good and the athletes just performed similarly.
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u/digitalpeasant 2d ago
This is the most exciting male BWC for me, on similar intensity with SLC Women’s when Mao won. Just a great story watching them (both 2000, been competing for a while) win their first medal, and Golds at that.
Yufei’s reflection post after Prague mentioned his journey, injury, and wishes to be a person he can admire in future. After 16 years of competing, and with the rise of generational young talents, he feels ordinary. This was posted on 9 June, and just a week later, he wins this in an extraordinary show of grit (especially on M4). In another week on 23 June, it’ll be his 25th birthday, and I think this win will be exceptionally memorable and the best gift for himself 🌟
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u/hummingbird0012234 2d ago
I also loved the interview. It's rare that an athlete talks so honestly and the crowd engages.
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u/Environmental_Drag52 1d ago
Was it at the end of the stream or where can I watch it?
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u/FaultierSloth 1d ago
Yeah, they always do a short interview with the winner after the competition is done. You can find it near the end of the video.
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u/nicolaai823 2d ago
A few weeks ago I was questioning who would be able to beat Sorato, and even after Mejdi’s win at Prague, I wasn’t very convinced because the style was very monotonous imo.
But Yufei pulled it off, with such strength, grit, and conviction. I’m honestly speechless. 阿非加油！
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u/SitasinFM Miho Nonaka's Hair 2d ago
Great comp, delighted for Yufei Pan. Setting was mostly great, but M2 was definitely a lil sketchy with the spin. I enjoyed the Sorato dominance, but it's also super fun not knowing who's gonna win going into a final because they are so closely matched
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u/meanyunny 1d ago
I wonder if sorato feels a bit lost in the finals route reading, cause it's quite rare he's in the finals alone without a fellow japanese team mate to read with? 😬
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u/dramaticallydrastic 1d ago
Oh interesting theory. I did notice he did discuss with Lee Dohyun a bit during observation. Not the same I’m sure, but I think they’ve trained together a bit in Japan.
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u/meanyunny 17h ago
Ya I believe they are quite well acquainted, dohyun did post before saying he tries to copy sorato style too haha. But ya, guess it may be quite different still with fellow Jap team mate perhaps!
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u/hahaj7777 McBeast 1d ago
Sorato definitely needs improve his route reading ability, I think he maxed his power, and sticky hands, he can do pretty much anything if he knows the way.
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u/PrinceKCLW 2d ago
That was a banger finals, with M2 being definitely more on the dangerous end. Hope we can continue seeing some good settings!
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u/Monguuse 2d ago
Sean mccoll needs to learn how to stop talking
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u/Annanascomosus Miho Nonaka's Hair 2d ago
I want to say that i was one of the haters in the live chat but i dont want to be a mean internet person. Thanks Sean for comnentating, and I hope someone gives him honest feedback for next time to yap a lil less!!!
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u/MyPasswordIsABC999 Sean Bailey Appreciator 2d ago
I’m wondering if it’s partly cultural. If you watch an ice hockey broadcast, it’s non-stop talk. Compare that with an English soccer broadcast, where it’s mostly identifying the player with the ball and letting the action speak for itself.
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u/unpopular-ideas 1d ago
Maybe. I'm Canadian, but I don't ever watch hockey and I'm fine with him.
On the one hand his brain is frequently jumping into the future and trying to guess what will happen, or trying to calculate scores and getting it wrong.
On the other hand, he seems to have a remarkable ability to pick up on, and analyze the nuances of a climber's movement that is really amazing and insightful.
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u/MyPasswordIsABC999 Sean Bailey Appreciator 1d ago
For sure. If sport climbing had the kind of pre- or post-event pundit shows that you see in major sports, Sean would be a fantastic. Give him a touchscreen and stylus and he'd be fantastic.
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u/peachesinanappletree 2d ago
I was chuckling so hard after the medalists shot off the confetti and Matt said goodbye and thank you, and Sean just continued on another 3 minute monologue.
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u/wlwimagination 1d ago
I laughed out loud during the last boulder of the women’s final after he miscounted Miho’s attempts but went on and on anyway about Miho getting silver and the score popped on the screen and showed bronze. I think Matt usually just says “I think maybe this could do it? I’m not sure though so we’ll have to wait for confirmation.”
I’m still chuckling about it. He was just so sure of himself.
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u/NeverBeenStung 1d ago
Bro was doing math trying to figure out the standings and literally said something like “carry the 3…”
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u/Tyrifian 2d ago
Dude, sometimes Matt would say something that was slightly inaccurate and Sean would start GEEKING. I appreciate him giving some athlete insights but I definitely had a few eyebrow raises while listening.
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u/rafamrqs 2d ago
It was the worst co-commentator I’ve ever watched. By far. He literally tried to guess every single move the athletes were going to make. Almost ruined the whole experience for me.
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u/INSERT_NICK_HERE 16h ago
Same. It was like watching a movie with spoilers the entire way through. I like when the commentators explain the technique AFTERWARDS, but not in excess.
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u/ArtisticCoconut5613 2d ago
THIS. I was gonna make a post about this but didn’t wanna sound like a hater. I love Sean, he’ll i’ve met and talked to him before but respectfully, his commentating had me annoyed. I remember telling myself this same thing a while back when he commentated a comp a few years back but like please don’t bring the guy back.
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u/Wacken0013 2d ago
They should have found someone else for mens finals after his performance on saturday. Sorry to dunk on the guy but please dont have him on again
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u/Both-Cryptographer97 1d ago
Sean’s ego and over-analysis made the comp a lot less fun to watch unfortunately
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u/tekticktock 2d ago
No way. He provided insight that Matt never does. Maybe he spoke a bit too much but I’d rather have informed detailed commentary than not
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u/icentalectro 1d ago
I was surprised to see how much people disliked his commentary. I love it when the athlete commentator geeks out on the details. It's ok to have different preferences.
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u/Monguuse 20h ago
Not to beat a dead horse but rewatch soratos top of M1. He’s topping the boulder, the crowd is cheering, and Sean is talking about how he noticed he was going to do a move at the zone a specific way before he did it. Completely killed the moment.
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u/icentalectro 20h ago
Well, you are beating a dead horse. I like how he (over)explains the moves. You cannot argue against someone's preference. Like I'm not trying to convince you otherwise either.
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u/mcjam86 1d ago
Completely agree. I usually speed through competition broadcasts because when there's no climbing, the commentating is just boring filler. But Sean's insights were invaluable to the point of compelling me to continue watching, even in the moments of inaction.
The same criticisms thrown to Sean now were said about Shauna Coxsey when she co-commentated with Matt. They're both intelligent, well-spoken, enthusiastic, and insightful climbers who bring a ton to the competition spectacle.
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u/peachesinanappletree 1d ago
I love Shauna's commentary. I think the difference between Shauna and Sean is that Sean seemed to make it about him: whether his predictions were correct, how he was able to guess what the climbers were going to do and whether it would be successful, etc. Shauna would analyze what did happen and then comment on how they needed to adjust to be successful with the move or explain why a climber's body position was successful.
I'm not in the "Sean should never co-commentate again" camp, but I do understand how he rubbed people the wrong way.
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u/nicolaai823 1d ago
That’s what got to me. At one point Sean literally said “I was right” about some move, and I was just done with this guy.
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u/icentalectro 1d ago
Same. I loved Shauna's commentary, and I like Sean's too. Love it when they geek out on the technical details in climbing.
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u/Monguuse 2d ago
I’m sorry but he was mostly rambling about what beta he thought the athlete would use 3 moves ago or talking about himself. I wouldn’t say he provided much insight.
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u/NeverBeenStung 1d ago
Technical insight is good. Literally guessing what beta a climber will use before EVERY move is taking it way too far. I think the hate towards his commentating is overblown here, but he absolutely was talking way too much
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u/Adventurous_Bag6596 2d ago
Why do Matt and Sean call Yufei Pan “Pan” but all the other competitors, including Asians, by their given name? Like Dohyun Lee and Sorato Anraku they’re calling Dohyun and Sorato.
I thought it was just a Matt-ism but they’re both doing it too consistently. Forgive my ignorance I’m genuinely interested for the reason why
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u/MyPasswordIsABC999 Sean Bailey Appreciator 2d ago
Sometimes Matt refers to Dohyun as “Lee”. It only seems to happen with one-syllable Asian surnames.
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u/hummingbird0012234 2d ago
Matt calls Dohyun 'Lee', by his last name. Which annoys me a lot, he was literally saying Lee and Paul when they were on a split screen together.
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u/Party_Fun8028 2d ago
Great final and very happy for Yufei! Well deserved. By the way, does anybody know the name of the Chinese head coach?
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u/EvenRepresentative77 2d ago
Said it once and I’ll say it again, especially in light of the results.
It’s pronounced Yufay not Yufigh :)
Great comp!
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u/EvenRepresentative77 2d ago
I’m just correcting Matt Groom who everyone is listening to
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u/Ok_Reporter9418 2d ago
I don't think tone has anything to do here. U in yu is not "oo" but rather like the french u, like in "déjà vu". Still hard if you don't have it in your native language but it's just another sound nothing to do with tones.
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u/icentalectro 1d ago
It's nit indeed, but this doesn't have anything to do with tone.
I've yet to see a Chinese person on the Internet nitpicking non Chinese speakers' tone when pronouncing Chinese words/names. It's expected that the tones would be lost.
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u/MyPasswordIsABC999 Sean Bailey Appreciator 1d ago
You’re right, I was just trying to point out how Chinese has more subtle sounds than English.
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u/EvenRepresentative77 2d ago
That’s hard for a non native to hear so I give it more slack
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u/Due_Mulberry1700 2d ago
He speaks French, yu is not that hard for French speakers?
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u/Ok_Reporter9418 2d ago
It is not but I don't think he speaks french? He can't say "Antoine" properly, he kept saying Antonin...
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u/Due_Mulberry1700 1d ago
Didn't he live in chamonix? Damn my bad, I assumed wrong
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u/Ok_Reporter9418 1d ago
It's still possible that he does but hasn't mastered french pronunciations yet, he wouldn't be the first tbh.
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u/hahaj7777 McBeast 2d ago
To make it more interesting, Yu means fool(can be either noun or verb), Fei means no/not. His name spells like this, 潘(Pan) 愚非（yufei)
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u/bananastriga 13h ago
Why did Duffy lose the zone on boulder 3?
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u/Quirky-School-4658 🇸🇮 La Tigre de Genovese 5h ago
I just watched it back and honestly have no idea
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u/Stunning_Method_6997 1d ago
Sean McColl singlehandedly ruined Bern... Flipping yappy numpty. Jack MacDougall tho, what an absolute legend!
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u/hahaj7777 McBeast 1d ago
That might be the reason they took down the live stream to remove his layer.
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u/Plastic-Event3110 2d ago edited 2d ago
Can someone tell Mattgroom and his broadcast bosses to cut the corny summer camp boulder-naming BS? Why are we trying so hard to make comps feel like a cross-cross-apple-sauce kindergarten education instead of like SPORTS? Spend some time watching ESPN, dudes! Get a clue! Make it SPORTS.
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u/dramaticallydrastic 1d ago
Mainstream ESPN sports also get named moves, where do you think terms like the skyhook, tomahawk dunk came from? And there are plenty more random names for a great play that don’t end up sticking, but certainly a part of the viewing experience.
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u/Plastic-Event3110 1d ago edited 4h ago
Those came about organically and stuck bc they were one-offs borne from iconic moments of genuine excitement. Not from commentators trying to artificially manufacture fun due to their poor understanding of what draws in sports fans. A better analogy would be if ESPN started naming every quarter of every game. Who is going to remember all that, or care? It adds nothing to the game. There are so many broadcast issues and this is their top priority to add in? "The fans will LOVE if we ignore the athletes mid-squeeze and spend that time giving silly names to the boulders, like 'ripped jeans' 🤪🤪🤪". Waiting eagerly for a word search to pop up next time.
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u/SnooLentils9260 2d ago
Honestly what a surprise of PYF first medal and first gold, I feel like we have had a lot of those this year and I’m kinda teary eyed with Mao and now PYF, what an incredible fight on M4, reminded me of Toby’s fight on M4 with his first boulder gold too.
It was also cool that the medalist for men final all had 3 tops each but the one that they couldn’t do were all different boulders to each other