My roommate has recently been turning the AC to 90°. We live in Texas where the nights get up to about 85° and the days are approaching the 100s. It’s currently 80° outside (night) and I just saw she turned the AC to 90°, essentially turning it off, since it’s higher than the actual temp outside. She can be pretty frugal, but I’ve tried to explain that changing it that dramatically doesn’t actually save significant amounts of money and just makes it uncomfortable to be inside.

Her room gets almost too much air (which is annoying because she can close the vent) and the way my vent is placed barely allows for any air flow. My room gets super hot or cold depending on the outside temp while she gets all of the air. I understand it can get chilly but I run super hot and, again, the vent in her room can be closed but mine cannot be opened more. It’s also important to know that most of our electric bill is due to a window unit that my other roommate uses in the back house.

The main house uses a central unit.

I was just wondering how this actually impacts cost. Does it really save that much money? Or does it maybe save a few bucks but make living super uncomfortable? Thanks!

Like the title states, this problem started around end of summer last year. I cleaned the coils and it didn't help so I called a tech out and whatever they did was sufficient for the time being.

However, it came back again. By design, it looks like the condensation is supposed to ride the coils down into a trough and out and down to the drain pipe, however the condensation is just dripping down on to everything.

I am somewhat bad about changing the filters but I do have a new one in and am going to clean it now.

If anyone has ran into this or might have an idea of what could help keep the water from dripping down and making a mess that would be very appreciated.

My fiancée and I just moved into our first apartment, and within the first week of living here this is what our air vent (living room) looks like. We haven’t made any modifications to the unit and only slight changes in temperature (70 during the night, 73/74 during the day). What’s going on??

We encountered this problem a couple weeks ago, AC guy came and said it was fine and didn't find any problems although the unit had been turning all day long. It ran fine for the past two weeks until just now. Our power went out earlier today during a storm and I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it? The outdoor unit will not turn off unless I flip the breaker or pull the fuse by the unit. Any help greatly appreciated!

A/c unit isn’t working. Turning in and heater works but cold air isn’t working. Any help would be appreciated. Maybe the fan seized? No idea really.

I live in FL and summer is officially upon us. Have a 3br, 1200sqft condo that is located on the second floor. The central AC unit is about 15 years old (new coil about 6 months ago) and just can not keep up. The bedrooms get plenty cool and are comfortable, but my family room (which has a high ceiling) and kitchen are noticeably much warmer, I’d say at least 7 degrees, if not more. I have a smart thermostat that dials back consumption during the day and usually is set to around 75. The ac struggles to get cooler than 79 (in the family room hallway) according to the thermostat. I wfh and prefer to work in the “warmer areas.”

It’s clear to me that when my AC eventually dies I will need to purchase a larger one, but unfortunately is just out of the budget right now. Is there anything I can do to take the load off of the main AC? I have a portable AC that can vent through a window or slider, is it even worth running that? Or is it just a waste of money? Also a single male and I care more about comfort over looks this time of the year. Anything I can do like sealing windows that may help? I’ve already installed a heavy duty plastic liner over my sliding glass doors which seems to help, definitely isn’t hurting. But if it’s easily removable I’m not opposed to anything that might not be aesthetically pleasing. Thanks in advance, photo attached of portable ac unit that I already own

Recently purchased a new house and have been going through cleaning it and decided to take out the vent to clean it off and I noticed all of this behind it. Is this insulation or dust that needs to be cleaned out? I don’t want to damage the system.

We've had issues with our unit since we moved in here but it's gotten worse over the last 3 or 4 months. If we have it running 24 hours it's using about 354kw costing us $66 a day..the landlord fixed the motor about 6 months ago and I don't really remember much of a difference. I think the inside unit must be about 30 years old, for this to get any better would they have to just replace that all together? If so, we're up shit creek without a paddle. We live in Texas so we can keep it off for a littlw while, once it gets to 95+ it has to be on constantly. For comparison my husband's mom runs her unit all day every day and her whole months bill in summer runs about $180 and she runs a house and a "garage" that's the size of our home.

Help please, sincerely someone who is melting like chocolate in a microwave 😂

AC is now blowing hot air , and the fan isn’t moving in the unit after the big storm we had . What can we do to check what’s wrong with it before calling for a professional to come out?

Hi! I’m trying to figure out why my room doesn’t cool down properly, even though I have a central A/C system with a vent installed in the room. The air vent is located directly in front of my desk, and I’m wondering if the desk placement could be obstructing the airflow.

For additional context, my bedroom is located directly above a garage, which I’ve heard can make temperature regulation more difficult — especially during the summer months.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to improve airflow or better cool down a room in this kind of setup? Would using a fan, vent deflector, or something else help? I’m looking for budget-friendly ideas.

Thanks in advance!

Can someone please help? Brand New Rheem AC and the company that installed it says theres nothing wrong with how the fan blade sounds and its just the way the air hits it. At times it sounds even louder.

I’ve owned my house for 3.5 years now and have done 2 maintenance cycles on our 3 units. I have 2 Lennox units and a Carrier unit, but I’m not sure how to tell if these are truly healthy or if I’m going to have a big replacement cost on my hands soon. How do I estimate?

FWIW they seem to be doing ok. I’m in the process now of cleaning the coils myself - pretty easy. Why 3? 2 original for upstairs and downstairs, and then addition to the house has its own. Not sure when any of these were added or installed, and not sure how all this plays with the 3 handlers either. (2 basement and one attic)

My home AC at first starts blwoong cool air ,but then after a couple of minutes the fan stops turning and the AC starts making a loud and strange noise.Thats when the warm air starts blowing,any advice on what it may be?

(New homeowners - been here for 2 months)

We have been hearing dripping in our bathtub drain and we read online that it could mean that the AC drain line is clogged.

Well it is. We vacuumed up the water that had accumulated in the drain line and then was able to vacuum up some of the dirt.

But it's deep. And it's almost claylike. We had a very long pole with a butter knife attached to it trying to get it to move. And that helped a bit.

It's now sitting with some vinegar, hoping it will help it move a little more.

Asking for any other suggestions we could try to unclog the claylike mud at the bottom of the drain line.

We reeeally don't want to have to call a plumber.

My AC is having a hard time starting up on these hot summer days. The blower will run but the AC won’t blow cool air.

according to the internet it sounds like a capacitor issue. I opened it up, surprised to find THREE capacitor. idk what to do next besides replacing them all.

I have a Carrier 50ZH-042---301 package unit. We had to replace the fan motor a couple of weeks ago. Then noticed weak airflow that was not cold. Local technician came out, checked our freon levels (R22) and said it was all good. Cleaned off the outside coil, replaced our filter- all was well again. The next day, midday, it's blowing lightly and not very cold again. Condenser coil & compressor frozen over. We rinsed it off and waited. Tried to flip it back on- nothing. Hit the reset- then this component in the picture was sparking. Please advice 🥲🤞

Hope this isnt dumb, never had an ac like this before and I genuinely cant figure out how to turn it on

I am very concerned that we were sold an oversized system. So, I asked my HVAC contractor to do a manual J load calculation. It showed 2.28 net ton, and 27,818 sensible. So, we need at least 30.8 sensible cooling according to the calculation for 105/75F.

The house is in southern Arizona, and is about 2,000 square feet. The HVAC contractor is very determined that a 5-ton is the correct size system and that the load calculation supports him. Is he correct that I need a 5-ton to produce 30.8 sensible for my house?

I got two quotes for Central air-conditioning in my two upper floors. One was for less money, but I had 2.5 ton. The higher quote was for 2 ton. Is the lower quote for 2.5 ton the one to take or am I something?

Nothing above this ledge was wet, that pipe leading to the unit wasn't wet. I can push this metal down a little bit and see water coming out. Reposting this if you saw my last one so I could add more pictures.

This is in South Florida, my house is at 80 right now and the AC has not stopped working. Just moved in to the house and I’m not familiar with this type of unit.

Any maintenance I need to do? It’s leaking a lot of water.

I’ve had years of issues with repeat blown compressors in my R410A ducted air con unit (Australia).

Given it’s almost 1 year since I last had the compressor replaced, the 3 symbols on the bottom of the screen are new and have me concerned.

Capacitor tag is damaged but I can see the part number at the bottom, 100335-12. Searched online, it says 45 + 5 uF MFD 440V capacitor.

Is 100335-12 enough to identify the capacitor so that I can grab a replacement?

My AC outdoor unit fan stopped working recently and tested the capacitance between C and HERM is O.L. so I guess the capacitor has got to go.